Mr BOPGMCARS, I can only comment on Rochester carbs, ,,,, and Klondyke bars. I have never run a holly,
In the 1/8 mile track at what speed or time do they tell you you need a roll bar? Would that be 6 sec? That run looked good , but I think i know what your thinking your missing , and that would be that sling shot looking run, you hat the shot , need more sling.
Well you didn't burn off much but with that low stall you shouldn't need it. You definitely need more cam. I had a close to stock cam with my good heads, B4B with 2" spacer, 2" KB headers, 18" tubes on the headers, Stinger ignition timing set at 38 all in at 3000, 3.73 12 bolt mini spool, 29.5x10.5x15 M/T slicks 8"ATI blower convertor only stalling at 3000 at the most, no spin, T400 manual shift at 5800 RPM's, and ran like a 12.80 or 60 I can't remember. I think it was a 7.8 in the 1/8th. The only thing I changed I think was putting my old KB 107 cam in it which has a lot of duration and 499 lift. I ran 11.18 at Muncie Dragway and the cam was destructing all the way down and it was missing out on the return road. I lost a cam lobe. I said that's pretty good for 7 cylinders! Then we put a KB 7XR cam in it and a stocker 8" ATI 5000 stall and finally a 4.10 Mosier rear end and ran a 10.85. Record time to this date is 10.77. Here is how it runs now with wore out cylinder walls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzdcOzCCHFs
ou:I just finished installing the spacer I was recommended and tested car on the street where I always do and for some reason the car felt worst. Car used to take off burning tires in first second and third. But now it takes off but will lack the power to continue burning the tires even in first gear.
Check for a possible vacuum leak in one of the spacer gaskets or possibly where it meets the intake or carb and is not matching up right possibly exposing the manifold vaccum. Jetting is only good for fine tuning not a massive difference when you change something. Generally speaking most Holley carbs are close from the factory and a couple jet size changes up or down will fine tune it. Are the spacer holes big enough for the 850 DP throttle blades? Some spacers may need some opening up to match. Maybe it won't allow the carb to open fully. If you have a major change of power like you're having something is not right or surprising enough the setup just doesn't like it. Maybe the DP liked banging the fuel air mixture into the intake divider and that big flat spot. It may just like the open plenum between the 2 halfs of the intake. If everything is right it just goes to show how one car can like something and another doesn't but you never know until you try.
Found problem. As I enlarged diameter for 850 on spacer there was no material left between front and back holes. I would hear a loud hissing noise at around 2500rpm. Gasket at area I ruined just broke. just put every thing the way it was and start filling a can with leftover change and try to buy a real manifold. Thanks (nolift) your of great help to me.:Smarty:
Like a true Body man Brizz!!! Hey can you post that song for Mr Big Butz Racing, I think u know the one ,
I can be called many things but body guy and plumber are not among them. When it comes to body work my two main tools are my imagination and my check book.
Took my car to dyno and only made 295 hp. and 315 torque. after I installed 3500 stall converter. can to much stall affect hp numbers. Converter kicks in real nice at 3500 but seems to keep slipping in second and third.
I could be a bad converter with bad coupling, not allowing power to get to the wheels. Or it may just be thats all it has in it there is a formula to figure converter slip the dyno operator should be able to tell
I know we usually expect more horse power. I installed my 2800 boss hog back and car came back to life in all three gears. I can feel the buick non stop torque smashing the tires. I found a calculator and according to the numbers I used hp should be 353 hp. then add 20% to this number.
A looser converter will always loose you TQ/HP on a chassis dyno. A better converter will loose less. Too many people jump to the conclusion they have a bad converter. Not to mention if you don't have a before and after with the chassis dyno you have no frame of reference. The key is how it applies the power on a run. If you want an even better feel through the gears install a stock converter. I'd guarantee you that it will feel even better than the 2800 stall you put back in once you get moving. Do you think your car would run faster at the track with a stock converter? The only way you'll ever know if the higher stall converter is better is if you run it at the track. You have to decide, better street manners or faster track times. Of course there is the fine line where everything matches nicely and you can over stall a particular combo. Imagine how crappy a 5000 stall converter feels on the street but on the right combo it will run faster at the track. 3500 may be a bit much for your combo but you need to see what it actually flashes to at the track with traction off the line. Maybe with BBB torque it is higher stall then advertised.
