Filled it up to the top of the block with 50/50. The thermostat housing decided it wanted to leak like that was its sole purpose on Earth. Currently several hours from the 24 recommended for the curing period for the Rtv .
I've never had a problem and I have done stats where it is running 20min after I install it? Instructions be damned I ain't that patient!!!
Just started following this thread, don't know how I missed it before. The suspense is killing me...looking good so far!
Now read the title of the thread, and see if meticulous now fits. I'm very careful about giving everything the best chance to work. Hopefully that pans out
That's the nice thing about a Buick big block, the T-stat goes on first, and the gasket cements the thing in place, and then you put the housing on, - applying care not to crack it with overtorquing. (Been there, done that, ruined a t-shirt)
What temp thermostat are you using? I hope it is a 180* which is plenty unless you are going to drive regularly on very cold days.
Yes 180*, changed from the 195* I'd been using I just need the thing to run cooler, all through the rpm range
LOL...now your starting to sound like me! After I did the 4 speed conversion and oil pan gasket on my beater, it took me a few days to double and triple check everything then get the courage to start it. Turned out it was a non event. Car started up and ran like it was running 20 minutes before. Im sure you'll have the same experience
Also filled up a water bottle of gasoline at a local station. Will eventually prime the carb and fuel lines with that tomorrow. What's left: Fill the rest of the water Prime and time it Prime fuel Hook up tach and ignition lead Fuel line issue to the pump, not really a problem but I feel discomfort when I think about it Hood and dust cover can wait
What are your thoughts on having the valve covers off to watch for pushrod rotation? Is that worth the hassle or is it even required?
