67 Riviera 430 Build: Chapter 2

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by johnriv67, Oct 21, 2019.

  1. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Took $150 more than I expected to get it to work, but it now mostly does
     
  2. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Similar got me going on Buicks....hanging out at small local Buick dealer after hours in RI one night drinkin a few cold ones and checking out what they were working on....hmmm....green 71 Stage 1 conv....putting a shift kit in it....then when they were done asked who wanted to go for test drive....my hand went right up...

    4 of us pile in with the top down to test the shift kit......right up main street.....squawked the 1-2 hard!....smiles all around....impressed me....got me hooked!
     
  3. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Glad after all your hard work you were rewarded with s better than expected result......and if your only 150 over budget on a buick you need to consider yourself the luckiest person around and play the lotto tonight.
     
  4. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Ha more like $800 over budget, that $150 was just on the carb.
     
  5. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Does anyone and I mean ANYONE know how to stop the fittings on the power steering pump from leaking? The return side is a slow drip, but the pressure side has become a waterfall in the past few days. It's leaking up through the fitting on both.
     
  6. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member


    Haha still better most, I figure what think it should cost then x3
     
  7. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some M.M.O.G. guy.....

    Is the pump and lines new?
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Whenever you tighten those fittings, you must use a line wrench. The second thing you need to do is make sure that the flare is clean, undamaged, and sitting square. If it isn't, it will seep. You have the same situation with the steel fuel line connections at the carburetor and fuel pump. You can try and loosen it and reposition the flare, then tighten making sure it is square.
     
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  9. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    The pump and lines are old, and have been attached together for over a year.

    The pressure side fitting is leaking, the return side is seeping, but it all somehow started at once.
    I will be running a new fitting and then reusing the rubber line, because only the old fitting has begun to leak. I even cut off the end of one fitting and then re-flared it to see if I had some fresh metal, but it still leaks.
     
  10. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some M.M.O.G. guy.....

    Make sure the pump fitting doesn't have a chafe or scratch in it, too. As Larry said, it's a flare fitting so metal to metal contact in what basically amounts to a ball/cup is what seals them. If you can't find direct fit hoses, an industrial or hydraulic shop should be able to make you up a set if needed.
     
  11. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    When you re-flared it, did you do a single or double flare?

    The high pressure side should have a double flare or it may leak.
     
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  12. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    Probably did my double poorly
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    johnriv67 likes this.
  14. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  16. Freakazoid

    Freakazoid Gold Level Contributor

    I concur, double flare is a must. As for the PS. slow leak on return should quit by tightening the clamp. If not it's time for a new hose. If that does not stop, check hose nipple force crack. High pressure as Larry and Lucas posted. Ide would think if that checks out verify that the leaks on the pump are the flares and not O ring failure on the rear pump fittings, those O rings under the pump housing bolts and High pressure fittings fail. John's Hgh pressure hose should at least be able to be ordered from most parts stores or online. We used to repair alot of GM pumps at work.
     
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  17. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    I think I will make my own hose and clamp it together as such. This doesn’t seem too daunting, I just need it to stop leaking.

    Will a new double flare probably solve it?
     
  18. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some M.M.O.G. guy.....

    Find out if you have a hydraulic shop in town and take it to them to get copied. That's what I do with obsolete and unavailable stuff on my old things.....
     
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  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If you have a good flaring tool. Jason got me a Mastercool kit years ago. Makes everything and the tool is hydraulic.
     
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  20. Freakazoid

    Freakazoid Gold Level Contributor

    As for double flare for fuel it should as long as where it goes is in good condition.
    John , you can replace the PS return with the correct type hose. But you will need to buy a high pressure hose. . Ide have to check the service manual. But on a GM bus with a Saginaw pump specks are 1600 PSI, if I'm remembering correct. Your Riv will be real high. Nothing to play around with. ( Edit. A new repo hose is not available ?) A repo hose from Autozone or other should fit correct and ide think be under 30 bucks. Just want to add. And sure most know, Leaking power steering can burn very easy. Cause a under hood fire.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
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