Hello, looking for any advice folks might have: I own a 56 Buick Special with the 322. I have owned and have it for 5 years and drive often. The engine is original, I have rebuilt fuel system cooling system (stock) dropped the trans pan and cleaned and replaced pickup screen. The car runs really well but I went to change the oil and decided to probe the oil pan and found a good amount of junk in the bottom. I pulled the valve covers a they were both junked, one had more signs of oil flow than the other. So I pulled the rocker bar and found clogging junk here and there (in process of cleaning those). One of the oil supply galleys was clogged so I'll drop the oil pan next and remove the oil pump. That is were my concern is, is there anything I should be aware of before I drop the oil pump to clear the oil passage (engine in the car)? Mike
Looking at the oiling diagram in the service manual, there is not much to be accomplished by removing the pump. Clean and replace the pan, fill with oil and turn the oil pump with a drill with the rocker assemblies off. If no oil feeding to the cylinder head, you might be able to work a wire into the oil feed hole. If no joy, remove the cylinder head and try again. Hopefully it will not need a complete disassembly. Leave the crud in the passages alone if not completely clogged unless you plan a rebuild.
Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking if I removed the oil pump I might be able to get some of the junk to go in that direction with the oil pump off the junk would drop out rather than being pushed back up while running the engine. What is still amazing to me is how well it ran (I hate to say that - hope it still does) with the limited oil being pumped up to the heads. In addition, I haven't told many folks this but when I dropped the trans pan a couple of years ago (the fluid stunk like a dead skunk) the junk was so bad - the pickup screen was close to 80% clogged but it had a dime size hole that allowed the fluid to get picked up. After changing the fluid and replacing the screen the trans mission really started working better which I don't believe is much different performing than when it came off the line.
Also, disassembled the one rocker bar last night, above have the rockers oiling holes were clogged and the bar had a lot of junk in it too.
Just buy new rocker shafts. If they have been running dry, they are worn out anyway....you may need some or all of the rockers too. Check the ends of the pushrods; they should have a dimple. If a tit instead of a dimple, then replace those too. Any crud in the passages is tight, happy and behaving...disturb it an it will clog something important.
Telriv, thanks for selling me those rocker shafts. I also found a couple of complete/used rocker shafts for sale for 50 bucks, they are off a 55 nailhead, is that compatible to a 56 (which I have)? As I see a few of the rockers on my car have sings of on wear on the inside.
The rockers will work on your engine. Check for wear. With new shafts, you will probably be able to make a good set out of yours and the replacements (that's all that used rockers are good for).
Mike, Before you purchase those rocker assemblies look for the newer aluminum ones. There are a 1.6 ratio instead of the 1.5 like you have. Is good for a 10HP increase & the rocker shafts are the same.
I haven't bought the old/used rocker assemblies yet as the they slightly differ in that little external rocker oiling hole is in a different place (thats about it as to what the difference is - don't think this should matter). But I wonder if there is more of a difference that I can't see from the photos. Where do you suggest I look for the aluminum rockers? *so far I only have tagged one (from eight) rocker for swap out as the inside is galled.
Here is the listing on eBay for 55 nailhead rocker assemblies; they won't work for me (for parts). 1955 BUICK 322 NAILHEAD ROCKER ARM Shafts Hotrod
Correct, the iron ones are stronger, but your not racing or have added much stronger valve springs. The aluminum ones are good for 400+HP in stock form with much stronger valve springs.
I have a bunch of used aluminum rockers here at home. I could probably put together a complete set-up from what I have. They will be complete assemblies & a bolt-on for you if interested.
Telriv, thanks again for the offer, but I did send you a check for the new rocker shafts and I'm going to get a few new rockers from Rocker Arms Unlimited to replace the badly worn ones. Hopefully this will do the trick. I to get back to it now as I got an oil pan to drop, hopefully this won't be to major of a task.
Be sure that you compare the new rockers with the old. I bought a set from Kanter with incorrect geometry. In fairness, Kanter was great about it and took them back with no problems. Whatever Tom tells you to do, I would do it.
Thank John for the advice. Got the oil pan off today, talk about wrestling a bear with exhaust and steering rods in the way. After getting the pan off I went to remove the pickup screen and one screw was loose enough to remove with my fingers. The screen has quarter size clear spot that allowed oil to flow through, reminds me of of how the transmission screen looked when I serviced that. Mike
A little more news on this topic; found a weak soft plug on one of the heads so off to replace those - glad I came across that when I did as it only took finger pressure to poke through. Also, the rockers haven't come yet so I called the place and they had forgot about me, so they got moving on filling my order. I took the valley cover off and meticulously cleaned the major gunk out, I feel pretty good about how that has gone, I don't think there will be much in the way of loose material/junk in there anymore. I am reluctant to remove the distributor as is has a good 8th inch of baked on oil on it and that I didn't want to disturb. Still want to test the oil flow before reassembly but again I don't like the idea of removing the distributor to do a pre-lube.
Your choices on pre lubeing (spl?) are few. Pretty much either just crank it over with the ignition disconnected or pull the distributor. I'd pull the distributor. One of the advertisers on this board sells an adapter tool for just that purpose. If you have pulled the valley cover to de-sludge, I sure wouldn't worry about some caked-on oil on the distributor.
Thanks John, I appreciate the advice, I do have a pre-lug tool for a SBC, do you know if this will work on the nailhead?
