Not sure on that. If I had to guess, I'd say yes, but perhaps someone else will jump in here. Historically, if GM finds a design that it likes for something, that design spreads across the company. It would be unlikely that a mid-50s Buick would use a totally different oil pump/distributor drive design then a mid-50s Chevy.
Just about ANYTHING can be made to work as far as pre-lubing. Even a big screwdriver with slots cut into the end to slip over the oil pump driveshaft & the top rounded to fit into a drill of your choice. Tom T.
The SBC pre-lube tool worked great, in addition, with the visibility of the oil pump (w/valley cover off) top/pump shaft is was easy to reinstall distributor back to original orientation. I preluded with the rockers off - got good oil flowing. Put the rockers on and pre-lubed again and there was a generous amount of oil dripping too. Side note; the valley cover w/mesh enclosed. The mesh inside the valley cover is spot welded in, that basically means you need to remove the spot welds or find a way to clean the cover with it all intact. I sprayed/soaked and held the cover up to the sky in an attempt to clean this thing without cutting it open. What I eventually did was to bring a 5 gallon bucket of water to a boil over a fire pit and boiled it until there wasn't and more crud coming out of it and when air flowed through is freely. By the way it was so clean I felt I might eat my lunch off it before putting it back on. Mike
Sorry, but the valley cover is still dirty inside: here is my method http://www.buickrestorer.com/valleycover.html
As the original topic here is sludge, I thought that I would pass something along that an old-timer (probably younger then I am now) told me. If you start an engine and drive it less then 10 miles you have hurt it. It doesn't get warm enough to get rid of the sludge that forms when the engine is cold. If you drive it three times for five miles, you must make a forth trip of 25 miles to undo the damage - 10 miles for the last trip plus another 15 to offset the first three. Simply put, your trips should average 10 miles or more in a pre-pcv car or you will get sludge buildup. It makes sense to me. Probably not as true in today's 195-degree thermostat cars.
Just want to check in and say that the old 56 Special has been running great for a over a year now after doing the above work. The only thing that has developed is a oil leak coming drivers side rear of engine. I've checked the oil pan/valve cover and they are not leaking but can't see exactly where its coming from. Let me know if anyone has a idea. Thanks.
Thanks for the update!! Probably the rear main seal is leaking. It can be fixed . Or, if it's a small leak , one can live with it.
I'm getting a half dollar size drip after each drive. It drips drops from the transmission accumulator nut on diverside. I think I'll take a closer look tomorrow.
Half dollar size puddle. I do see that the blow by/valley vent tube is emitting oil vapor too, thinking that might be part of the source.
I do not A better mechanic than I replaced mine. , But, there are some threads that tell the best procedure for replacing the seal. Try a search of rear main seal
Mine puts out a white vapor sometimes. Sometimes not. It puts out less since I started using Shell Rotella 30w (for Diesel engines) instead of the 30w Vavoline ( for gasoline engines). I changed to Rotella for the zinc content. The reduction of crankcase vapor was a welcome side effect.
Don't worry about the vapor until you have taken it on a 100+ mile trip to cook all the volatile components out of the crankcase. My method for rear seal leaks is detailed on my website: buickrestorer.com If you cannot find it I will post a specific link when I get back to a real computer instead of this phone.
Thank you for the link and info. I will check it out soon and see if its something I will tackle (if needed most likely yes as I don't have other wrenching on my stuff)..
Try a pint of Dot3 brake fluid in the oil. Will help to swell the rope seal & sometimes takes care of it over the long term. Tom T.
