Man we think alike, I've been eyeballing a wildcat on craigslist in Denver for $3500.00 numbers matching. So I guess what I'm trying to say is.. anyone got $3500 I can borrow? I'll hit you back on the first..p Hey check this out, I though this was neat 1970 Buick Production Numbers 1970 LESABRE SERIES Model 45237-Two-Door Sport Coupe...............................14,163 Model 45239-Four-Door Hardtop.....................................14,817 Model 45269-Four-Door Sedan.......................................35,404 Model 45437-Custom Two-Door Sport Coupe....................35,641 Model 45439-Custom Four-Door Hardtop..........................43,863 Model 45467-Custom Convertible Coupe...........................2,487 Model 45469-Custom Four-Door Sedan............................36,682 Model 46437-Custom 455 Sport Coupe.............................5,469 Model 46439-Custom 455 Four-Door Hardtop.......................6,541 Model 46469-Custom 455 Four-Door Sedan.........................5,555 </PRE> 1970 WILDCAT CUSTOM SERIES Model 46637-Two-Door Sport Coupe...............................9,447 Model 46639-Four-Door Hardtop.................................12,924 Model 46667-Convertible Coupe..................................1,244 </PRE> </PRE> I wonder how many are still out there? </PRE> </PRE>
Mike, The '75 pistons are good to use as is (after new rings). I planned to just hone the cylinders of the '75 block as they are very smooth with no wear lines to speak of (my fingernails slide up and down all the cylinder walls with no problem), unless if would be better to use the '70 block, but since it doesn't matter, I'll save it. Whichever the block, I planned to have it trued, as well as the '70 heads, but also planned to talk to the machinist to find out how much from each would be able to be taken off in order to achieve the best CR possible on my setup. I honestly don't know of any reputable machine shops in my area tho...o No: With a stock '70 455, I thought the CR was like 10.0:1 or something like that, straight out of the box? That being said, using the '75 block & rotating assembly and the '70 heads with all milling done, what would then be keeping the CR from reaching that 10.0:1? The pistons? Here's a quick rundown of all the parts that I plan to use on the rebuild: '75 or '70 Block (both good) '75 pistons & rods (could possibly use any old pistons from blown '70 block and replace any busted ones) '75 crankshaft '70 heads w/stock valves (replace w/Stage 1 valves in future), push rods & rocker arm assembly TA Stage 1 valve springs PN-TA 1435 TA camshaft PN-TA 290-94H or TA 310 (this is when I thought I was going to be getting 10.0:1 CR using the '70 heads) TA lifters PN-TA 1405 (does this really matter, I mean, as long as they're hydraulic lifters?) Edelbrock Performer intake Edelbrock 750cfm carb Cloyes double roller timing set Clevite 77 complete bearing set '70 timing cover Rebuilt water pump '70 fuel pump '70 oil pump Stock torque converter Plan to install a shift kit on the 400THM Previous owner switched the rearend gears with some other gears...I have no idea what the ratio was to begin with or what it is now, but I'm certain he switched them for the better as he was into Buicks as well...any help? I believe that sums it up, but I may have missed something. Comments and suggestions are encouraged, but keep in mind, I'm not trying to spend an arm and a leg...I need to sell old parts I'm not using just to keep this project funded! :grin:
Dru, those are some awesome numbers!! I think I need to find me a Convertible Wildcat OR LeSabre!! I saw my first vert LeSabre at an annual car show I attended earlier this year. It was beautiful!! I'll find the pics and post them later.
That definatley is a 75 or 76 455, its rated at 205 H.P. I would spend the money and have the block boiled at a machine shop. Using just a pressure washer and degreaser is fine for the exterior of the block, but it does little for the interior water passages other than making them wet. If it was running hot because of some crud in the water jackets, using a pressure wont get the crud out. Mark
Dru, here are those pics of the '70 LeSabre Convertible I was telling you about. AND she got parked right next to my '71 Skylark!! It was for sale for $8000 if I remember correctly...
Here's some things I've done over the last month or so. Checked my deck heights dr 60 down pass side 37.down. Plugged the front water passages(plumbers putty) and filled it with muriatic acid 75 acid 25 water and let it sit till it stopped bubbling and rinsed out with baking soda.Removed the frost plugs and shop vac & scraped it clean. Jamie
You can get Muratic acid at any pool place I know for sure (its used for shocking the water or something) They might even have it at your local wally world. Its about average 6 bucks a gallon, I think home depot has it for 8.99 for 2 gallons. That Convertible Lesabre looks nice! I found a '70 wildcat convertible for sale close to my city that looks beautiful, kinda curious as to why its so cheap. Check it out. Man its hot as hell today :bglasses: -Dru
Yeah it's been hot here lately too. We have had a couple nice showers the past 2 days tho...but with yesterday's, you wouldn't believe the hail storm that cam thru here!! I couldn't believe my eyes... Anyone have any advice about where I should/shouldn't grind in regards to removing the cast flashing in the lifter valley? Or any other advice concerning my rebuild for that matter?
Thanks to tips from both members No Lift & DruRizzo, this thread has been moved to the Street/Strip section. (Thanks Jim!) :TU: Let's see if i can get more comments, ideas, & advice now :Brow:
My advice is to sell the 75 heads and intake for scrap.. you will be very dissapointed if you build a complete smog motor to replace your 70 455.. Use the top half of the 70, bottom half of the 75.. JW
Thanks again Jim. :TU: I'm definitely going to go that route. Would it make any difference using a '70 block instead? Cause I do happen to have one lying around in about the same state, if not a little better, than the '75 block. Also, I've been told to try and use '70 pistons/rods as well. I have my old set from my blown engine that I could likely use. Most are still good, and I can replace the ones that are toast with some other used ones I have lined up. Will it make a significant enough difference to pursue, or just use what I have?
This is my favorite thread, I thinks its pretty interesting... my question is where's all the love?? Come on Guru's.. Jump on and dish out some advice Please! hopefully LarryGS will jump on it and give his two cents.. I hear he's the Wiz in these parts. Looking good though Charles oh and I took some new pics of the Lesabre check em out. -Dru
LOL! Thanks Dru! But it's all good, others will jump on board eventually. I'll just keep posting my progress, and see where it leads me :grin: Man, that's one good lookin LeSabre you've got there! :TU: And don't worry, it's not just in Florida...I've got the beginnings of some bubbles under the vinyl in the same exact spots. ou: Here's a SWEET lookin '70 Wildcat on eBay, just to break some minotony...
Like Jim said, use the later block. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it should have larger oil passages vs the '70 block. If you were going to use the earlier block, I'd have the oil passages enlarged to the later specs.
That is a Beautiful Wildcat! Slap some rally wheels on it though :grin: You know what I think is hilarious?? No matter how nice of a 70 lesabre/wildcat it is.... the front emblem is always missing. Its a conspiracy:Smarty: -Dru
That's a good point Hutch. I have no idea the differences between the blocks, but I knew (learned on this board) that the heads got worse towards the end and the earlier ones are best to use. Since I have all this wonderful & pricey machine work ahead of me (still need to locate a reputable shop in my area), I will prolly go ahead and have the valves enlarged to Stage 1 specs while I'm there. In the mean time, I will continue to clean up all the parts I'm gonna re-use as well as parts I won't and keep the rebuild going as much as my wallet will allow at the moment. Now, as far as grinding in the lifter valley & port matching using gaskets as a template...I know that No Lift said it would be pointless, but I've also heard different. Anyone else have any experience in this area?
Deburring the block is better for oil flow, or at least I think so. I think that's the main reason people do it. And who said port matching/head porting is a waste?! I think all the guys at Tri-Shield Perf., and especially Greg Gessler would disagree with that . . . unless you're talking about the later versions of the cylinder heads. All the smogger heads might as well be turned into oversized paperweights.
Dru, I have spoken with only a couple other '70 LeSabre 455 owners on this board before, but not on this subject. Thing is, I KNOW I can't be the only one who wants to find a better shock for the front of the car. Edelbrock makes some nice IAS shocks for the rear, but no one makes any for the front. Seems like there'd be something out there we could use that would only take minor modifications to make it work. Any ideas?
