So I do not need that edlebrock adapter on my intake/ I can remove it and nothing will go wrong?? I will take a couple pics of the intake today, to show the vacuum lines and all that.
What kind of carburetor opening do you have, spreadbore or squarebore? If it is a Spreadbore (Q-jet), you need either the adapter or the plate I linked in my post. If it is a Squarebore opening, you don't need anything.
Ill just show a couple pics are these the pictures I need to show to tell if I need the adapter ?? also added some pics of some lines,
C´mon, the edelbrock intake has drilled the holes for spread bore AND square bore carb. You just have to put the carb on the intake. I promise you it will fit. And it´s easy to see.... when you put the carb ob the intake and the holes match it fits. What´s the problem??
I may be seeing things but i noticed you have 2 VACUME HOLES left open on the back runner of the intake !!!! that will cause all the problems you are talking about make sure all holes are plugged ( looks like 1/8 pipe thread ) the two i am talking about are generally used for the brake booster ans trans vacume line you have both of them to the carb!! fix the first and get rid of that spacer ken come on guys am i the only one who saw the open vacume holes????
Thanks Ken Im going to plug those 2 holes and remove the spacer right now, but ive always had those 2 lines going to the carb and never had problemso No:
thats right but you do not have the same manifold do you??? and they worked on your stock intake. those same holes were probably plugged !! Once you plug them you will be very happy i am sure Ken there may even be a third hole plug it as well i just re looked at the pictures and it is on the back runner down by then PCV grommet
The reason it is different than what you had, is the mainfold has extra holes for things like trans, brake booster, and cruise control take offs most if not all Buick carbs do not have the booster come off the carb but your does and thats ok. Just make sure all vacume holes are plugged even check the front passanger side where you have the coil mounted thats no a blind hole either and may be a source of vacume leaks just check to be sure Ken
Problem solved, yeah im an idiot i had not plugged those holes, when some mentioned it on this very thread :sleep: anyways its idling ands sounds great now and im off to take a trip around the block..
The problem is, you can get a vacuum leak. Sure the carburetor fits, but with the square bore gasket, there is a spot on each side that gets very close to the rear opening. The plate solves that problem. Hey, you do what you want, don't shoot the messenger
Larry, I know what you mean. The square bore gasket gets very close. BUT, and thats only my opinion, I wouldn´t use the adapter because it´s poor in performance, and I´m sure he put the performer intake on for power gains. For my part, I always want to get everything running like it should, and this adapters flow bad. I had one on my 76 chevelle 350. It was a stock 350, so it didn´t make any difference. But on a 455 I realy would put that on. And I´m sure if you put a thin coat of RTV sealer on both sides of the gasket, there will be no problem.
I think nobody lost a word about those open vacuum holes because there are no power brakes and trans vacuum connected. So I think that everyone was sure that he plugged those holes with power brakes and trans vacuum before firing up. And nelson´s post doesn´t describe a typical vacuum leak problem: car idles for some minutes. Knocking sound??? What knoocking sound, and a car with those vacuum leaks doesn´t run on idle in the normal way. Further he didn´t say it runs bad or something like that, only that there is a knocking sound. When I put on my performer I also had a vacuum leak because I pulled a vacuum hose and didn´t recognize. My car didn´t run idle only when I pressed the throttle. And it ran so bad that I turned it off after 5 sec. I think that´s why nobody told him about the 2 holes. Nelson, if it was my car I would remove the adapter and put the carb on with a thin coat of RTV on both sides of gasket. Let the sealer dry 30 min before you fire it up. I would say that it performs better. Worst case is that you get a small leak in some days, weeks or month (if you get a leak, but I don´t think so).
I agree Peter, the adapter isn't the greatest, but the plate I use is very thin. It does the job very nicely http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2732/10002/-1
Larry is right there is a thin ( almost gasket thin ) plate that comes with the carb when new not the adaptor and NEVER USE RTV OR ANY SEALER on a carb gasket Ken
Sometimes an engine that runs very rough can rock a bit, and the exhaust can hit something creating a knocking noise. My MT header get very close to the crossmember. When the engine is cold (I have no choke), the headers just tap up against the crossmember. When the engine warms up, everything is fine. Maybe when he fired it up with those open holes, something similar happened.
