Right now I'm using a single core all-aluminum radiator in my 1964 Special with a stock 71 350 sbb 4v. It works great, and fits in the stock radiator support nice. And I haven't added a shroud yet, which, once I do, will only add to the cooling performance.
My recore was done by a local guy he used a new core and hd to "borrow" parts from the old rad to make it look correct. 400.00. For that money you can get a good aluminum so go for it.
Lee, when I was rebuilding my Corvette I had to replace the original stock radiator, which was aluminum. After pricing an aluminum replacement I went with brass/copper, which I now regret. Because of the combination of a small front air inlet area, the fact that these radiators mount leaning forward (to allow for a low hood), and the fact that brass/copper doesn't disperse the heat like an aluminum one would, my car now runs at a higher temp than before. Driving in the Texas heat, during the summer gets a little scary watching the needle climb and climb. At some point I'll do as you did and go back to aluminum but I don't drive it enough to worry about it right now.
Had a 4 core brass with old motor, swapped to a 2 core aluminum with the new motor. Mixed results so far. I had high hopes for the aluminum but time will tell.
This is what Flowcooler, maker of some pretty nice water pumps has to say about the matter: "Why copper and not Aluminum? PHYSICS - the material property that indicates its ability to conduct heat is known as thermal conductivity. Copper has a thermal conductivity of 231 btu/hr/ft. Aluminum has a thermal conductivity of 136 btu/hr/ft. Copper is a significantly better heat exchange medium. CHEMISTRY - Aluminum is more vulnerable to electrolytic corrosion than copper/brass because aluminum is a highly reactive metal. If the corrosion inhibitors are used up and the PH level drops to 7 or below, aluminum becomes a sacrificial anode and is eaten away resulting in radiator seam failure and coolant leak. ECONOMICS - Aluminum costs about $1.11 a pound and high quality production grade copper costs over $4.00 a pound. Material costs of copper and brass radiators are greater than aluminum. Aluminum is a more profitable metal for radiator manufacturers but that does not make it a better value for car owners. HISTORY- In 1975, the federal government established Corporate Average Fuel Efficiency (CAFE) Standards. CAFE standards are 27.5 miles per gallon (mpg) for cars and 20.7 mpg for light trucks. Car manufacturers immediately began to lighten the load. After all, for every 100 pounds removed from a vehicle, there's a increase of half a mile of fuel efficiency. LONGEVITY- aluminum radiators have a shorter life. We frequently restore copper and brass radiators that are over 100 years old. We never see an aluminum radiator this old." I personally installed an aluminum radiator in my 69 Chevy, but still have a copper 3row in my 64 Buick.
Aluminum being a stiffer metal can support tube sizes up to 1 1/2". Copper being softer cannot do that. More tube to fin contact means better cooling despite the thermal conductivity differences . GM has been using single row aluminum radiators that get the job done. I have seen copper radiators so full of scale the only option is to re core them because you can't clean them effectively. I bought my Griffin aluminum 2 row radiator with 1 1/4" tubes. My 600 HP engine runs at the stat temperature (180* +/- 5*) under all conditions. I bought it in June of 2000. It is still leak free and looks as good inside as the day I bought it. Of course I change the coolant often.
My buddy just bought one of these in black ice coat for his Chevelle BB. Dual 1-1/4" tubes, lifetime warranty and pretty expensive at $750.00. We'll see how it cools pretty soon. http://www.dewitts.com/collections/...ts/copy-of-1968-1972-aluminum-radiator-manual
I plan on having my original 67 3.5" tank with the "curved neck" with 3 rows re-cored with a high efficiency 4 row like this. http://www.usradiator.com/cores High Efficiency Copper/Brass Core - Copper 80s style core with 1/2 tubes on 3/8 centers. Increased cooling efficiency without modifications to car. 4 row High Efficiency offers more cooling efficiency than aluminum cores due to tubes on 3/8 centers. Copper/brass construction to ensure dependability. Available in Normal Duty, Heavy Duty, Desert Cooler and Tripleflow styles. Or this: Optima Core - Extreme style copper core with 1/2 tubes on 5/16 centers. Offers 40% more heat transfer points. The most efficient core on the market when combined with increased air-flow and our Tripleflow option. Available in Normal Duty, Heavy Duty, Desert Cooler and Tripleflow styles. I found a local shop that will re-core my tanks with the HE unit for $400.
Can't get them anymore but I have a 5 core copper/brass. Cools great. Will never be able to pull the wheels.
No question: 2 row aluminum radiator. Mine cost well under $300 and cools like a champ (better than my 4 row copper/brass unit)
2 (big) core Aluminum here. Had a Griffin that cooled great but leaked after a year, have a becool now.
A quality aluminum 2 row will have equal or better cooling than a copper/brass 4 row radiator. Ask the owner of your local radiator shop what he would put in the car if it were his. Quality doesn't necessarily mean the most expensive.
One other thing to consider is if a radiator Cv (flow coefficient) is vastly different than your water pump and thermostat Cv you will have overheating/cooling issues. One reason big 4 core radiators overheat in traffic at idle is the coolant striates (gasses and liquids separate based on temp) because it is flowing too slow. You are technically only using part of the radiator. That is why a two core will cool better than a four core at lower load conditions. Now tubing size, btu gain and loss based on metals used also plays into this and it can get complicated mathematically. Too many people oversize their radiator with poor results being the consequence because one simply does not have the GPM flow correct for the radiator. Mikey
