4 core Brass / Copper radiator or Aluminum radiator.

Which would you choose?

 

Aluminum 2 core.

http://www.americaneagleradiator.com/

 

Yup, I have a Griffin in mine.

 

Only reason for copper is originality (Re: Copper or Aluminum radiator.)

Hi Scott and V-8 Buick cooling system experts.

As long as you sticking with the 350 and aren't putting any extreme loads on your car like towing, you probably don't need anything more than the standard Harrison radiator that came with the car. So if you prefer a original look, you could either repair or replace your radiator with "the same thing." However, aluminum is much more efficient at transferring heat, so an aluminum radiator will more effectively keep your engine much cool. Those of us going "big-block" there is no alternative really. If you aren't too concerned about originality, you certainly cannot go wrong with aluminum.

Cheers, Edouard :beer

 

Aluminum.

 

Previous owner put a aluminum radiator in my skylark and the 340 has a fixed 7-blade fan, I don't think it even noiced the heat last summer. :grin:

 

The aluminium radiator in my 2003 Dodge Durango is more efficient at LEAKING!!!

I've replaced it Twice .. including the factory radiator that's 3 radiators in 83,000 miles....

I would love to replace it with a brass copper unit.

 

Aluminum all the way. Lighter and better cooling in a smaller package due to the core rows being bigger than a comparable copper brass. Right around the same price. Champion has 2,3,4 core and Griffen is what i currently have in mine and it works great!

 

I got an aluminum radiator from a circle track guy and it was either 3 or 4 core and about 2 inches in width smaller and my car would overheat at idle when it was 115-120 outside. It didn't overheat with the stick 4 core out of te centurion unless it idled for about 4 or 5 minutes. But Larry's point is interesting

 

I wanted to keep a stock look so I had my original 2 core copper radiator recored to a three core using the original tanks. Added a 6 blade fan with fan clutch (which can't easiely be seen) and this set up works perfectly even in the Texas heat. Anyone who has had a 64 with a 300 engine knows about the overheating problems these engines had. Very satasfied with the outcome.

 

I'm puzzled. Why do so many of you have problems with overheating? I thought I have suffered through just about every automobile problem that there is, but overheating has never reared it's ugly head in any vehicle that I have owned. That includes some real oldies. All I do is be sure that the cooling system has clean coolant, the proper thermostat, a block free of crud, and a decent radiator. The shroud must be installed if the car came with one. I have always used whatever the factory recommends for a thermostat, and keep the belt(s) at the proper tension. The fan should work properly - having said that, Tom T. says my fan is undersize, (but the 430-inch Nailhead still doesn't overheat). In fact, I wish it would run a few degrees hotter.

 

John, I don't understand it either, but once I installed the 383 stroker in my Corvette all I had was overheating problems. I guess more HP means more heat too. I started trying to solve it bit by bit, first the thermostat, then a Stewart high volume water pump, fan shroud insulation and radiator support insulation to direct air flow through the radiator and finally an aluminum 2 core radiator. The aluminum radiator is what finally gave me the upper hand in my battle against the heat monster. I tried the snake oil stuff too. Water wetter? some people like it, I think it was a waste of my money.

 

2 core Aluminum with 1" inch tubes

I had a problem with my water temperature reaching 210 degree mark or more when the weather was in the 90's so I switched to a 2 core Aluminum radiator from Cool Craft this past spring. After changing only the radiator and nothing else the water temp never went over 160 this past summer even on days where the weather was in the 90's. The radiator was a direct fit for my 72 which was great because I did not need to move the trans lines and the lower radiator hose fitting was the same size as the original unlike most of the other radiators available on line. So a good 2 core Aluminum radiator with at least 1 inch tubes will get my vote. Just be sure to select the correct year if you order from these guys so that the trans line fittings are in the right location and that way you don't have to move anything.

http://www.coolcraft.com/buick-gs-1972-1973-v8-all-aluminum-radiator.html

 

If your stock aluminum radiator has plastic side caps with gaskets then it will leak.

If you get a complete 100% aluminum radiator, not a cheap version, then you will never have a problem with leaks!

 

I had on order an all aluminum radiator to the tune of $800+.
But before , I paid the $800,
I called the shop that installed leaky radiator,
The leaky radiator was bought from Chrysler. Chrysler gave me a lifetime warranty on the radiator
I had to pay labor .
$0 for the new radiator
So far so good one month later,
I need to unload this Durango to someone I do NOT know

 

Love my Ron Davis radiator that I got through TA. Fit like a glove, car never sees the high side of 180. A bit pricey, but when you up the hp, you create a lot more heat.

 

I have a copper rad in my GSX and even in the heat of summer never over 180* but it does have aluminum heads I will be getting the same one done for my 71 car and this has iron heads. my goal is to get it done for next summer.

 

The copper radiator was good enough for your car when it was new. Should be fine now unless it needs to be re-cored or your engine is heavily modified from stock. Also depends if you want to maintain stock look or not. I have a re-cored radiator on my 67 GS and everything works fine.