No he isn't. He's just not a fan of hi lift cams that tend to wear out . but you usually beat up on those engines more than stockers. But he does know the math to run those cams. Just like any other setup it has to match all the parts. Throwing a big cam in a 7.7 to 1 compression engine is wasted as they don't work together. I think he has mentioned before that the Crower level 2 and the 212 are good for low compression engine.
Not necessarily so. It just depends on how long you want your valvetrain to last. I've hammered on stockers just as hard if not harder than anyone who races seriously hopped up engines, and they hold up to abuse just fine, if not better, since the parts aren't getting hammered as hard by the engine. Your best bet is to upgrade to the TA 212-350 cam if using a stock cam bugs you that much. Crower level 2 or 3 are also good choices, though the level 2 will net a hp and tq tradeoff (more torque, less hp) with a lower RPM powerband over the Federal Mogul cam. It also needs tighter springs because of the lobe intensities (to ensure proper valvetrain stability). Forget what the description says for the 'level' of cam, those are there to give people a general idea and the description is used loosely for all makes of engines. The level 3 Crower cam has a similar powerband to the stock cam, with torque coming in slightly higher in the RPM band when compared to the Federal Mogul cam, and peak HP comes in around the same time. Expect modest torque and hp improvements. Again, tighter springs required to ensure proper valvetrain stability. You could get away with stock springs, but don't expect your engine to behave (or last long) above ~4,000 RPM... Ditto for the TA 212-350 on springs, though with this cam you will see the biggest power gains over the stock cam. Torque will stay about the same, but will peak much higher in the power band, along with extra RPM pull on the top end over the Federal Mogul cam. This cam is your biggest power cam without getting too radical and still being able to maintain decent gas mileage and vacuum. You don't even need a stall converter for it, although one is recommended (along with 3.73-3.23 gears). With higher DCR (7.5-7.75) the TA-212-350 cam will net a solid 25-30 hp over the Federal Mogul cam when the engine has been opened up to accommodate it (better flow: heads, intake, headers). Other goodies not necessary, though will add noticeable power gains (intake, headers, x-pipe, head work, etc.) The cams won't last as long as the Federal Mogul cam, but hey they're fun while they last! IVC point for Federal Mogul cam is 71* so you'll need higher comp for proper match. It's also asymmetrical in design, so the descending slopes on the lobes are gentler for the head seats and lifters, and is why the stock springs will let it rev to 6000+ RPM, even though peak power comes in much earlier than that. It's also why the cam responds very well to its environment and will make itself at home in a 2 barrel single exhaust low comp engine as well as it will inside a high comp 4 barrel engine with high flow intake and large tube headers... Lobes have low lift to match the low lift peak flow on the iron heads which exists within the .300-.400 range, even when moderately ported. Asymmetric design permits lobes to exist within the peak flow for longer periods of time when compared to symmetric lobe designs. This means it doesn't need the extra lift that symmetric lobe designs do, and is better engineered because of it. This cam has 3.25* advance @.050 and 1.75* retard @.006 built into the cam. I have more detailed descriptions of this cam in other threads here. Crower level 2 is 58* IVC point, with 58*/56* I/E lobe intensities using a symmetric design. This is not a gentle design, and it WILL wear quite a bit faster than the stock cam. You don't get 'free' power. There's always a trade-off. level 3 and TA 212-350 are both 66* IVC point, when the TA cam is set to 4* advance. Both the Crower cams have 4* advance built into them, so set timing gear to 0* (as long as there's no advance built into it--Melling told me the stock timing gear has no advance/retard built into it). Crower level 3 cam has 66*/61* I/E lobe intensities, while the TA cam has 62*/55* I/E, making the Crower cam a bit gentler on the valvetrain vs the TA cam, though the taller exhaust lobe lift offsets that a bit. TA's exhaust lobe is borderline 'safe' for a flat tappet cam, and is why it generates so much more power for an otherwise relatively mild cam. Again, a trade-off. TA cam is ground 'straight up' meaning there is no advance/retard built into it, so you need a multi-keyway timing gear for it. Set it to 4* advance, and as others here have said, degree these cams to ensure you're at least in the neighborhood of where you want to be, because you never know where the grind will actually put you. So whatever tickles your pickle. The easiest, safest, and least expensive way to go is the Federal Mogul cam with a set of Crower cam-saver lifters. Match DCR to this and you have a solid foundation to build the rest of the engine around, which will last a very, very long time. Otherwise, I'd recommend the TA 212-350 cam for the most noticeable improvements over the stock cam (higher power band, more hp (but similar torque, just at higher RPM), a bit of a lope, and still gets decent MPG and enough vacuum for power brakes. Don't expect it to last long though. But hey that's ok. Wouldn't want to build something that you didn't have to tear back down in a few years wouldja? Where's the fun in that? :grin: Gary
I'd like to add that if budget permits, you might want to look into a roller cam. You don't have to worry about breaking one in, lobe wipes, or 24,000 mile camshaft lifespans. Along with the aforementioned upsides, you also get more power, better engine efficiency, less engine heat, less need for ZDDP additives in your oil, and pats on the back from everyone who promotes the use of roller cams. Your parts purveyor will also likely send you a small love note inside your parts box, along with some chocolates and flowers. (Warning: using a stock cam will provide some of these benefits also, but will be accompanied with sneers and jabs from the community--and parts vendors...) Your camshaft will also last you a lifetime, providing your lifters and/or valve springs doesn't dig into it and wipe out your several hundred dollar grind pattern...which leads me to the downsides: Since no one really knows just how long the aftermarket roller lifters actually last (yet), we're all assuming they will last somewhere between 100k and 200k miles, at which point you have a ticking time bomb on your hands unless you preemptively change them somewhere around 100k(?) miles. This is not a 'downside' to many who will simply use their machines for recreation and will take a lifetime to accumulate half that many miles... ...unless your valvesprings are too tight, lobe patterns are too intense, valves have been floated, etc. which opens up a whole new can of worms and will make your very expensive roller cam setup last even less time than a flat tappet cam-chewer profile. Other downsides include: lifts above .500 (which is a real bummer for roller cams since their main strength is high lift and intense lobe profiles) will require roller rockers. You just added another several hundred to your valvetrain expense. Excessively heavy valvetrain, high lift and intense lobe profiles also require very high pressure valve springs. This puts unbelievable pressure on those roller tips and lobe tops, and has been known to actually damage the lobes/lifters if the springs are too tight/lobe profile is too intense. I hope you have another 1,000 saved up to regrind/replace that roller cam and lifters now... Hopefully, that roller timing gear/chain will hold up too, and not stretch/wear too excessively (which will throw your timing off) to offset any longevity bonuses a roller cam setup might otherwise have. Everything in the valvetrain is put under intense stress to hold it all together unless you go very mild on your roller cam, and even so, will still have high spring pressures and heavy valvetrain, but hey at least you won't have to shell out almost another grand for those roller rockers! There's pros and cons to everything. Choose wisely. (or if you're rich, then don't worry about it and just start spending) Gary
"Your parts purveyor will also likely send you a small love note inside your parts box, along with some chocolates and flowers." Didn't notice any note, chocolates or flowers with my roller, hope they weren't under the packing and I threw them out! o No::laugh::laugh:
