So I have a 71 350 that I'm looking to make some noticeable gains to. Currently the motor is all stock except: Ta headers, Ta intake, HEI ignition, and an Edelbrock 600 carb. I am currently doing a home port job on my cylinder heads. I also plan to get a Holley 750 carb, and a TA cam. Either TA-212 or TA-284-88H. I plan to keep all stock springs, valves, rockers, pushrods, and lifters due to a budget. Does anyone have any input on this build? Anything else I should do while the motor is all apart? Thanks!
Do the ta 212 cam unless you raise the compression... The 284 cam needs more compression than you have. Do a new timing set, and new dist. gear.
You need to replace lifters with a new cam or you will wipe out new cam. No its and or buts. Springs will need to be done too. You might get away with it with the 212 but anything bigger you will wipe a valve from float. Your compression ratio if motor is stock is an actual 7.7 . the only cams you can use are the rv112,212 or Crower level 2 which is the one I suggest. If your porting you will need to pull valve and need a valve job. Valve seats are not needed but valve guides will be. You can deck heads .030 to get about 8.3 compression . any more and custom pushrods will be needed. The edelbrock is junk . do not get a double pumper. Too much fuel for low compression. You will need to jet carb to your needs IT is NOT a direct bolt on and go. Don't be so cheap. Your saving money will cost you 3 times that after 1 season if you get that much. You will need a new timing chain set. Get a 3 keyway set. Most cams need to be degreed so you will need the adjustability. You can expect to maybe see 40 HP increase with what you have listed if your lucky I suggest you spend the money on a 3.23 gear and a 2400-2600 stall convertor first. Along with a better and properly tuned carb and a decent power tune on engine(recurve distributed also . Will give more gain feel than the cam swap.
I plan to get a 3.43 posi rear end sometime this summer as well as a stall converter. I don't plan on getting a Holley double pumper, just a standard 750. jetting is also possible. What are some good valve springs, lifters, and timing sets?? I know TA makes everything but they can be a bit pricy. COMP cams products? any others? Part numbers? What does "degree cam" all include doing?
You can get lifters from advanced auto or any parts store. Comp cams springs are OK but read up on them as I think they require citing spring pad larger as the use a universal size doing on the 350. Lunatic and Crower have lifters and springs also. Again I suggest Crower for cam and lifters . I also think the holley is a waste of mony on your level. I would get a quadrajet and send it to mark at quadrajet power .com . or everyday performance. For less than a 750 holley they both car rebuild a qjet that will outperform the 750 holley. And better mpg to boot. Decreeing a cam in relation to the cam spec card and piston location. I don't do that myself but there is a thread on here if you do a search . it will determine if you want advance on cam,or zero or retard can itself. I got dynagear timing set off eBay. 50 or 60 bucks I think.
You will need cam break in additive also. Comp cams has some or at least STP blue bottle with the zzdp additive.
I can get a holley 750 for a good deal. What would be some good jetting and adjustments to start with? good timing set up for what I may be running? break in procedure? This is my first time doing most of this work.
Timing would be good at 14-16 idle with total mechanical advance to 34-36 with it all in by 2600-2800
Listen to Alec's advice, forget the 750 Holley carb. I currently have a 750 Vac. secondary Holley on my 350, I just had Ken at Everyday Performance rebuild and calibrate my original Q-Jet, I cant wait to get it back on my engine. The Q-Jet was made for my Buick 350, a Holley 750 will be jetted for a Chevy more than likely, and we couldn't even begin to tell you where to start jetting, its tough to do over the internet.
No, I told him don't bother, you cant see the carb anyways under the air cleaner. Im more of a "go" guy than "show":TU: 13's huh, if I get low low 14's I'll be grinning, oh hell high 12's LOL, now Im dreamin'p
To start with I never had a 4 barrel Q-jet. It was originally a 2 barrel car that I converted. From what I see on Everyday performance, all the carbs are much more expensive than any other out there.
Most of what he has listed are rare cores that he is supplied. But he does test run then in an engine and it will be more tuned to your combo then any other carb. Basically a bolt on power increase
The 750 Holley will work just fine, you have to know how to use it. So since it is jetted for a Chevy it will not work on a Buick? Can I change jets to make it fit the Buick?:idea2:
With that lower compression the level 2 cam would be good . I like the level 3 and Steve runs 13s with his with stock heads intake and exhaust. But has about 9.5 compression, good dual exhaust, higher stall convertor and 3.73 gears.
All you need is the list number off the front of the choke tower and you can find out what jets it came with originally and I can work it from there. The Holley will work just write on it Q-Jet, so the engine doesn't know.
The Crower level 2 would be great on your combo. Run the recommended valve springs, don't even think about reusing old springs. The carb does not know what it's bolted to. It simply mixes fuel to the air going thru it. It can be tuned but if you do not know how and don't have tuning parts, buy the Q jet that is properly setup out of the box. It will save you much tuning and frustration. Q jet will make just as much power and fuel mileage and drivability will be better. FYI my axle is 3.42 not 3.73.
A quick bump for Ken and his services, great to deal with and very prompt. I went for color on mine as the Eastwood carb renew started to peel and was prone to stains. Paint was around 2 years old so it's not that surprising.. Hoping my first run will break the 13s as well! Little eye candy..
