65 Lesabre Here is the problem... As long as I am cruising around 30 to 40 mph on the street the motor sounds fine.. But once I start going 45mph or over for about 10 minutes the motor will start to tap... When I raise the hood the tapping noise is only coming from the drivers side of the engine. I know that the person I bought the car from said that they installed new lifters & push rods... The wierd thing about it is that when I start back cruising around 30 to 40mph the noise will slowly go away. The oil pressure when cold is around 30psi, when the motor warms up it drops to about 27psi.. Today I took my car to a mechanic, and he said that he thinks it is a oil pressure problem and that several thing could create a low oil pressure. He stated that it may need a either a Hi Flow oil pump, bearings, or cam shaft. He checked the lifters and said that they were good. The mechanic mentioned that I should maybe have an oil analysis done and that will be able to tell me what is wrong.. He also said it may be better to just get the motor rebuilt.. ???????????????????? About how much $$ is it to get a motor rebuilt? I would just like to get it running like it suppose to, I don't want to soup it up any. Based on the description of the problem what do you all think may be wrong with the motor? What is the oil pressure suppose to read on a 300 when cold and warm? Will an oil analysis tell me what is wrong? If I were to decide to just get a good used 300, where would be my best place to find one & about how much would it cost? -------------- As stated, I can drive this car for hours and hours just cruising around the neiborhood just fine.... But once i get on the highway or cruise at about 45mph for a few minutes the taping will start... Any help would be greatly appreciated!! ----------------- update 4-13-06 ----------------- Hello. Just wanted to update this thread. I got my problem fixed.. I ordered the TA Performance Oil Assembly. Which included the timing cover, gears, etc... all assembled, ready to install. I took it to a shop that was recommended to me for the install. Shop Info Stan's Garage (Shop foreman is Keith) 972-298-5535 121 W Fairmeadows Dr. Duncanville Tx 75116 When I took the car to Stan's I told them that I wanted them to drop the oil pan and do some investigative work before they install the new timing cover. Once the oil pan was removed, guess what was in there... Half an inch of sludge in the oil pan. Based on that finding, the theory that was causing the problem is that once the oil got hot the sludge was getting sucked onto the oil pickup and clogging it up. That is why the oil pressure would drop, and the lifters start tapping. They were being starved for oil because the sludge would block the oil pick up... So when the car sits for a while the sludge drops off of the oil pickup, and settles back into the bottom of the pan, & cools off (becomes thicker). So when I fire the car up again after it has cooled it runs good, until the sludge is picked back up by the oil pickup. "Stan's" Cleaned out the oil pan, cleaned the oil pickup, & installed the TA oil assembly. I got my car back, and it is running good! I put it on the highway for an hour yesterday, cruising at about 65mph, with no problems! --- Brook
Your 27 psi oil pressure sounds fine. For many years, my 340 had 25 cold and 12 warm! Recently installed TA's oil pump pressure adjustable spring, which brought it up to your readings. Never have had any internal engine problems despite the low pressure.
Could any one else provide any answers to any of my questions?? I spoke with the mechanic today and I mentioned that I was told that the 27 - 30psi oil pressure was good oil pressure and that that is the correct pressure for that motor. He said that he thinks that is should be at 60psi.. He also said that he talked with his engine rebuilder and the engine rebuilder said that he doesnt think that he would be able to get the pistons for that motor due to the fact that there wasnt a lot of those motors made. If he is able to get the pistons they will be very expensive... The mechanic is recommeding that I rebuild the oil pump and see what happens... What should I do? -Brook
" He said that he thinks that is should be at 60psi." Really? Then why does the 1966 Buick Chassis Service Manual specify that it is 32 psi? You need to see another mechanic.
Thanks for that info pertaining to the 66 Service Manual. I wish that I could find a mechanic that knew what the hell was going on with this motor.. This is becoming very frustrating.... If the oil pump is good what could be the problem?
You can still buy pistons for that motor. PAW for one carries them as well as complete rebuild kits with cams, lifters and gaskets.
Is that 32 psi cold, warm, or at a certain rpm? What are the diffrent operating oil pressures? Cold start pressure, Warm pressure, & high rpm pressure? What would you recommend, Kanter or PAW rebuild kit?
Do you happen to know if you have a hi vol/hi pressure oil pump on there??? At higher rpms/highway speeds, you may be pumping all the oil out of the pan faster than it can drain back down if you have the hi vol pump...Also, what weight oil are you using??? A thicker oil will drain back slower... Just some brainstorming...
I am running straight 40 weight Castrol HD.. I don't think the oil pump is a hi vol/hi pressure pump. I think it is the original equipment that came on the motor in 65.. I am thinking about replacing / rebuilding the oil pump.. Should I get a Hi Volume oil pump or just get a oil pump rebuild kit? Were can I purchase a Melling Oil Pump Rebuild kit? I am also thinking about replacing the crankshaft bearings... Hopefully those 2 things will fix my issues.. What do you all think?
I purchased a Melling pump for my 300 at Autozone. It was a high volume pump and came with a variety of springs to adjust to the pressure you want (they're color coded). With the engine warmed at idle, I used to get between 8-10 psi at idle and about 20 psi at cruising speeds (90,000. mile motor). Now I'm getting around 45 psi at 2000 rpm and 20-30 psi at idle. Motor runs quiet and has developed no oil leaks from the increased pressure. You'll have to remove the timing cover (good time to replace the chain and gears). The melling pump uses longer gears and you have to drill a couple small holes (the kit comes with a template and drill bit) to install the extra section. With patience, it's fairly easy. Hardest part is cleaning the old parts and gaskets. Check the cover for any deterioration (especially around the coolant passages). I used a new gasket set and Permatex black RTV silicone sealant.
Brook, Are you sure of your gauge? Cold pressure should be high, and drop off as you heat up the motor. It may in fact be an oil pressure problem. Rebuilding the pump is a good idea. Pay particular attention to the end clearance. If you do a search on "oil pump" on this BB, you should come up with plenty of information. TA performance sells an oil pump shim kit, that is necessary to get your end clearance to .002-.003. Earick Performance can recondition your timing cover if it is worn. Also on Buicks, the front cam bearing transfers oil from the passenger side of the motor to the drivers side lifter galley. When the bearing starts to wear, the drivers side lifter galley gets less oil, and the lifters on that side are noisy. I would expect this at all temps thogh so your oil pressure is probably to blame. What kind of gauge are you using, electric, or mechanical? Make?
Do not,,, I REPEATE, DO NOT use silione sealant on the gasket between the front timing cover and the block. The silicone "squishes out", and gets into the oil passages inside the block, also into the coolant passages. If it works it's way into the passage for a bearing, it will destroy the engine :eek2: The only proper way to do it is to COMPLETELY clean the old gasket away, and torque the timing cover back on to proper specs. If you cant get the gasket off the timing cover, take it to a machine shop and spend the $10-15 to have it professionally hot tanked and cleaned. While your at it, go ahead and replace the oil pressure sending unit located on the timing cover below the fuel pump.... only about $5. Timing chain and gears are also a good idea, maybe even a water pump.
:error: ummm...Oil pressure sending unit is on the pass side of the block just above the oil filter...fuel pump is on the driver's side... o No:
I should have added that I never lay a bead of sealant down on the gasket but only a a slight swipe on each side of the gasket to help keep it in place. You don't want silicone or any other non petroleum product entering the engine. Thanks for adding that info.
Mike, I'm sure there is probably no problem in doing what you do, but the oil pump gaskets do not require any sealant at all. Any sealant you use can potentially add to the end clearance. End clearance, thrust plate condition, and the pump pocket condition will determine how efficient the oil pump is. The clearances increase anyway due to the different thermal expansion rates between steel, and aluminum. You need the clearances at a minumum so that when they do increase normally, the clearances are still within minumum specs, and you maintain good oil pressure
I've read on this site not to use the Hi Vol oil pump... When I first crank the motor the oil pressure guage is at 30psi... When the motor warms up to drops to about 27.. It is a mechanical guage that a friend of mine let me borrow. I read in another thread on this forum about a person that had a similar problem and he replaced the oil pump, rods and rocker assemblies and fixed the problem..http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=69279 I told the mechanic to check my rods and rocker assemblies... Maybe he will find a problem... Thanks for all the help with this issue... I would be lost and frustrated with out yalls help...
So all you get is a 3psi drop off, from cold to hot? That is suspect right there. Bet your gauge is no good. Cold pressure should be much higher, especially with 40 weight oil. Put another gauge on your engine.
Could any of you provide me the part number for the Melling oil pump rebuild kit & flush plate part # for the 300?
