I'm working on updating the servo on a 2004R that I have. Problem is the shaft that everything fits on sticks out too far now. I've seen where guys say you have to grind down the shaft, but I can't even get the old servo on now. Do I have to have the valve body of to do this swap? I might take a few pics of what I have tomorrow and make sure I'm including everything that's supposed to be in there for the servo. Its a superior servo if that helps. I'm so agitated right now, esp. Because I sent a retaining ring flying throughout my garage tonight. Next question is I swapped the oil pump from a 10 vane to a 13 vane is that too much? I thought it was a 7 vane. Thanks for any help you guys can provide.
I just rebuilt a 200-4r transmission this weekend. Is this the servo you got? It was a tight fit and like you I tried the old one and couldn't get that one in, so figured it just required more effort, so I applied more effort. I had a heck of a time getting it in there but it finally went. The first hurdle was simply getting the servo to seat the seal, once the servo was down where the seal was against the sealing surface I used a pry bar and screw driver on it to get the servo down far enough for the clip to seat. I threaded the bolt to the TV cable in and pryed off that (you can see it in the picture), which gets you about 75% of the way there, but enough to get get the clip to compress and sit down in the hole (not clipped in yet), then took a flat head screw driver and pryed against the pry bar to square up the force on the servo at which that point it dropped far enough into the hole that I could hold the servo in place with just pry bar and used the same screw driver to push the clip down into the locking groove. I won't know for a while if my rebuild results in a functioning transmission as the engine is still out of the car too.
That's it, but I'm afraid to just push it in there. There is something back there, so I'm probably gonna end up romoving the valve body to take a look and see what is going on back there. Also had some issues with the line pressure regulator so I have to order a new one of those. Anyone have any tricks to getting that thing in place with out it hanging up on everything?
Don't fear the reaper? Line pressure regulator? The thing the TV cable attaches too? I did a dozen checks with a phillips screwdriver to see that the point of the servo would snag the band properly and push it into place. I did try and use another flat head screw driver from the valve body side to see if I could keep the band up against the drum to make sure the wedge the servo pushes into was as close to the center of the hole as possible. Again, I won't know how it does until I get the car running which could be a month out.
So, I guess maybe I could have it set in gear which would keep the servo pin from going in? The other piece I'm talking about goes in the oil pump that I was working on last night. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/200-4r.htm #28. 200-4R, low / reverse boost valve is what I damaged.
I don't think gear is a factor in the band and servo pin. At least not while the pump isn't turning. Ah, I just replaced the spring in that one. I just gently pushed it with my finger and slightly wiggled my finger if it got hung up. That parts list on that website is pretty indepth. I can see myself going back to that website after I get the trans in if it's not behaving well. Thanks for the link.
Me too!!!! ou: I am a professionally ranked amature and your mileage may vary. Until the transmission is in the car I cannot say with certainty anything I've done will work.
Finally got it in. Trimmed the pin down a little and realized that i needed to lift the band up from the other side to get the pin to seat and push in correctly. It seems to be set up correctly now. Loose until i push in on it a little and it grabs.
Are you air checking it? If you squirt air in the exhaust port on the pan rail surface, you won't be able to turn the output shaft. Then it will turn when pressure is released. You can the other clutches through their exhaust ports too. You will hear them click when they apply when pressure is squirted in.
so i put air down through the port, and i see the band move, but it doesn't grab enough to stop it from spinning. I'm really not getting a good seal with the air. If I push the servo in, it locks the band and the shaft will not spin. Do you think I trimmed the servo pin down too far? I'm putting 60 psi down there, but like I said I can't get a seal. Should I go get a piece of tubing to seal the pressure?
Finally got everything straightened out. The pin was too short so I welded a nub on the end, trimmed it down a little and now when I shoot air in there it locks up real nice! Thanks for all the help.
CK performance nough said. That is the place to go for 2004R tech and know how. Call them up or better yet get there book! It is extremely detailed, right down to the individual hydraulic circuits!
Yeah, I actually did get his book and the shift kit for it. I think I'm in good shape now. Just need to find the time now to put it in the car.
No kidding, I'm past the point of return now, the 350 has been pulled today. Need to get a TV cable and a few small parts but I'm hoping to have it installed in a few weeks.
Great you are making progress. I put the nylon screw in the weight on the governor to keep the spring in there. Then bolted the cover and plate on. I am about ready to stab mine in.
