yes im spinning off the line. when i launch i break torque it as high as possible (1500rpm), then slowly release. when i get it perfect it hooks but when i hit it too early it will burn out thru first gear.
I guess it was a given.. I could spin and spin and spin. Before I installed a locker. Now I can't without the spray..
there should be no reason that car will spin out of the hole at the TRACK, unless it is POORLY preped. period.i dont care if it a one wheel peel or not, it anit making that much horsepower. its just a c110 cam, witha STOCK converter, and low3.23 gears. at 15.70s? no top end. car needs a little more tuning. if plugs are whitish, needs to be richer, not leaner. ive read that twice now.bigger converter and posi would be nice,too. my TANK ran 15.0s last year an i was falling over at 4500 4600 in second an third. not no more! i gained 5, yes 5 tenths out of mine by changing faulty regulator. was a pound and a half off! 7.5 true fuel pressure now witha q-jet. 14.50s and gettin qiucker. tuning, man tuning:3gears:
when i peg it off idle it will spin for days. thru first and into second. ive also spun out at famoso raceway with my peg leg and a lesser cam. how do u suggest i make my car not poorly setup? also i did some more testing tonight and i have a new best: Open Air filter, 1in 4 hole spacer, Manuel shift 7.28 0-60 2.622 60 ft 10.211 1/8th 15.65 1/4 90.5 hp 168 @ 4347 tq 221 @ 3689 the carb spaceer gives a definate hp increase. the torque is higher so i cant get a decent launch, so the tq rating shows up lower. s-dividers love the 1in 4 hole spacer
yep even more so for offroad, thats the main reason why the main guy left and made his own company with a better revised unit called an aussie locker...too bad they dont have support for alot of axles...only axles that are known for offroad use.. detroit trutrac would be a great investment and ofcourse the typical eaton clutch type posi units
I'm thinking gears and a locker, or decent posi. I made one pass after my engine rebuild before the pro-street and turbo stuff began and it went 15 flat with no tuning. Stock heads, low compression, Poston 114 cam, 2400 converter and 4.56 gears. The car was full weight street driver back then.
That is for a Chevy 10-bolt. An Eaton for a 8.2 BOP rear (assuming that is what he has) will be more like $450-500.
The one I posted works fine in a Buick 8.5 rear. Here's your 8.2 posi:http://cgi.ebay.com/EATON-POSI-8-2-...s?hash=item19b2d89507&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 Still a good deal for $450, but I'd be swapping an 8.5 rear under the car before wasting time on an 8.2.
also i did some more testing tonight and i have a new best: Open Air filter, 1in 4 hole spacer, Manuel shift 7.28 0-60 2.622 60 ft 10.211 1/8th 15.65 1/4 90.5 hp 168 @ 4347 tq 221 @ 3689 the carb spaceer gives a definate hp increase. the torque is higher so i cant get a decent launch, so the tq rating shows up lower. s-dividers love the 1in 4 hole spacer[/QUOTE] Well here your car just picked up 2 mph. Also ET'd better with a worse 60' time so the power is there. That 2.6 short time is where ALL of your ET is hiding. Just get a posi unit in the car and work on getting the car out of the hole and based on the numbers you posted the car will run 14.0-14.5 with 2.0short times! Have fun.
[/QUOTE] Well here your car just picked up 2 mph. Also ET'd better with a worse 60' time so the power is there. That 2.6 short time is where ALL of your ET is hiding. Just get a posi unit in the car and work on getting the car out of the hole and based on the numbers you posted the car will run 14.0-14.5 with 2.0short times! Have fun.[/QUOTE] thanks. that the confidence boost i needed is it normal for an engine with this cam to be making peak hp at 4300rpms? ta says that this cam will pull to 5200. does it seem like i have fuel pressure issues to anyone else? i dont think richer rods will help this. im already running a rod which should be good for my setup. im gonna install a guage tonight an see. its just surprising to me because i wan and electric and the stock pump at the same time. possible a clogged sock in the tank
Well here your car just picked up 2 mph. Also ET'd better with a worse 60' time so the power is there. That 2.6 short time is where ALL of your ET is hiding. Just get a posi unit in the car and work on getting the car out of the hole and based on the numbers you posted the car will run 14.0-14.5 with 2.0short times! Have fun.[/quote] thanks. that the confidence boost i needed is it normal for an engine with this cam to be making peak hp at 4300rpms? ta says that this cam will pull to 5200. does it seem like i have fuel pressure issues to anyone else? i dont think richer rods will help this. im already running a rod which should be good for my setup. im gonna install a guage tonight an see. its just surprising to me because i wan and electric and the stock pump at the same time. possible a clogged sock in the tank[/quote] Sorry for the screwd up quotes. I just hit the "quote button" and I don't feel like fixing it.. I still think you need traction (locker, limited slip, whatever), wider stickier tires, ( I have wider tires on the front) and I believe you are missing a big part of your power band by shifting at 4500 RPMs.. I think 5200 would make you happier even if it didn't improve your ET. Trust me on this. I was in the same boat as you. Had to feather foot it off the line. Soon as it got going it shifted to second. Just seemed like a turd.. If I broke traction I may as well stop. It was over.. There you go. It's almost impossibe to be consistent with a launch when you are severly traction limited. You know as well as I. Once you spin with the one tire, it's over.
even when i manual shift at 4800-5000 i still hit peak hp at 4300 when i check my fuel pressure can i just rev the engine or do i need to be driving?
Does your poston intake have the center divider milled down? If not, you may be running into problems. If its not milled, try an open spacer. I agree with the above posts, lock up your rubber and you'll see some better times. If your car isn't dropping off at 4300 rpms, you're better off shifting higher as previously suggested. That way you'll still be in your powerband when you get into the next gear. Play around with it, see what works best.
yes the center divider is millilled down. im running a 1in 4hole spacer and i can definatly tell a difference.
60 ft is horrible.....you could put some 26 in slicks or drag radials on for the track. I ran 15.20 in a bone stock (well turned) heavy 72 GS 350 conv with 3.08 open and some 26 in slicks. Slicks were free....almost worn out when a guy gave them to me but I got 2 trips and a dozen runs outta em....... Do a burnout with the one tire then a couple dry hops to spin the driver side and pull to the line. Air bag in pass side helps with the open rear......:3gears:
But then you would be talking about a whole lot more than $400, which was kind of the original point.
I've picked up a few a-body 8.5 posi rears for less than that...Right place, right time. G-body 8.5s are a lot more money.
