Ok guys, my car is finially done with paint and im workn on the engine again. I took it out for a spin last night with the gtech and i was a bit disappointed. Here is my best run: Timing at 15 initial 37 total (better times than 10 initial 32 total) 7.4 0-60 2.55 60 ft 10.22 1/8 mile 15.778 1/4 mile 88.71 MPH My car has a 69 350 block 9 to 1 pistons Mildly ported heads Valve Job 1969 GS 350 TA C110 cam Poston Intake 750cfm QJET with .71 primary jets and .43B rods Ck rods in the rear with a K hanger Factroy GS cold air intake with K&N Filter 1/2 in 4-hole Spacer TA Headders Crane Electronic Ignition Custom 2 1/4 exhaust MagnaFlow Mufflers TH350 Stock converter 1400-1600rpm 3.23 gears no posi The car seems to be shifting early...at about 4500 rpms. What woud cause that? It also seems to be runing lean on the top end. Im running my stock fuel pump with an electric at the same time to insure full fuel pressure. Could my carb possibly use some leaner secondary rods? It also seems to be making my peak hp low 4200rpms or so. Peak torque at about 3200. Is this a sign of a lack of fuel or a lean carb? Ill take all the help i can get. I feel this setup should be atleast in the 14's. I know the lack of posi hurts me, but i should be doin better than this. Thanks Guys
Your time seems decent. Try shifting it manually about 5000 RPM and see if your time decreases. The trans shifting automatically at 4300 to 4800 RPM is normal as thats all "programmed" into the governor at the factory, you'll either have to trim the weights on the governor or buy the kit for it that B&M sells if you want to change the automatic shift point RPM so you dont have to shift it manually. 3.23 gears are probably ok with that cam, 3.42 would probably be better, but I wouldnt go anymore than 3.42 with a straight 3 speed auto if you drive on the highway alot. The biggest drawback tho is the expense of the gears and installation verses the slight gain from going from 3.23 to 3.42 gears. A slightly higher stall convertor around 2000 RPM would help too. Try advancing your timing a bit more, you say your at 15 initial, so I would think you cant go too much farther, as you increase your initial your total timing increases too up too the limits of the advance bushing. Advance the timing by a degree or two, then test it. Try the search "power timing your Buick" that will better explain it than me. Mark
The Gtech isn't necessarily all that accurate either. You look like you should be a fair bit faster than my 68, and I've run a 15.3 in good air, mid 15's normally, but I have a posi(2.56 though) and street slicks. No head work that I know of, stock intake, TA headers, 2.5" mandrel exhaust system, very mild cam. I assume you have traction issues, that would knock your time down a lot.
all that was said is true. keep on tuning. i would go richer in carb, though. and def shift it manually at five grand. maybe back the timing back a degree or two. 13,14 initional is 33,35 total, as rule of thumb. ALWAYS recheck timing.:3gears: good luck!
You need that Apple I phone with the Dynolicious software. You can do 1/4 mile times with it and get horsepower readings. This thing was real accurate. The video I had seen on it was showing that it was about dead on with the track. Your times look correct for what you have. I think you can get more out of it. The 60ft is what is killing you. Get a 2200 stall for it. Maybe try a 1 inch open spacer. The factory air scoops on the GS intake don't work they suck air out the faster you go with the car. I don't know too much about the carb but I would say put the 1 inch open spacer on and the richen up (smaller rods), in the carb. Like I said I do not know how rich the rods are that you have in the carb. There is usually a certain jetting set up on the Q-Jet for performance.
Buy a Powertrax Lock Right. Install in about 2-3 hours. Then you can nail it to the floor off the line.. No way can you get the power to the ground with a "one tire fire".. Calibrate the governor to shift at about 5500 RPMs 1-2 and 2-3. Leave it in drive and all you have to do is steer..
Your 60' needs to drop at least 4-5 tenths. Lose the stock air cleaner, it's hurting you. With the 3.23s if you raise the shift points it will seriously hurt your RPM going through the traps. The cam you have installed is a good match for the 3.23s. Beg, borrow, or steal a wideband so you can figure out where your fueling is. I'd go with a converter but you'll need a posi first. The lock-rights are junk, if you make any real power they are easy to break. They are also noisy.
The Lock Rights got a bad reputation somewhere along the way. They are noisy in a slow speed turn. But, Turbo Mark hasn't been able to break his with 4:56s and 30 in tall DRs.. THere is no doubt it is WAY stronger than the stock spyder gear setup. Perhaps the broken ones were installed incorrectly?? I beat the piss out of mine.. Then beat the piss out of it again.. Why would raising the shift points be a bad thing?? Sure did wake my car up.. Since he didn't specify a tire size, how can you make any assumptions about gearing??
my tire size is 225 60 r 14 measuring 26inches from top to bottem seems like i should be ordering some leaner secondary rods. my plugs are a bit on the white side. fox i have a gtech pro ss which is pretty good. i just dont like the hp and torgue ratings because they are below even rwhp numbers. overall its a nice tool. i wish i knew where to get a wideband 02 sensor im half tempted to buy an lm-1 ok ill ditch the gs air cleaner and run my chrome one. i had a 1in 4 hole space on when i ran my open air cleaner, but it was to large with the gs cleaner. should i put the 1in back on with the open cleaner? any ideas why my 3rd gear power curve is almost flat?
You've never had to change out a mangled pile of metal that used to be a lockright. I said at higher power levels, you or mark aren't making much power. The 72 I have now is the slowest car I've owned in 10 years, I'm used to having 9 and 10 second cars, not 12 and 13 second slugs. I've built everything from 9 second street cars to 13 second cruisers for customers while I worked at a couple performance shops, the lockrights always broke when you made enough power. If he raises his shift points, he will travel further down the track before each shift. There will not be enough track for him to get into his powerband in third if he shifts later. It's basic math. I've been discussing his combo with him via PMs, so yes I do know what he's running and I'm not making assumptions. Have fun beating on your 14 second car.
Well. He's not going to make that kind of power level either. Neither will the VAST MAJORITY of the folks on this forum. Justa350 (turbo Mark) is probably making 500 or so HP. Certainly not a 9 ot 10 second car, but as much power as the VAST MAJORITY of to people here are. Wonder how the stock spyder gear setup would hold up to a 9 or 10 second car?? I'm saying that for $300 it's way better than what he has.. The lock right is certainly a viable option and upgrade for most anyone with an open diff..
The POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT Locker is the original locking differential that could be easily installed in existing case assemblies without any special tools or setup equipment. It has been widely used in demanding off-road applications around the world requiring extreme traction output and high-strength. Because the LOCK-RIGHT eliminates wheel spin-up and therefore its associated driveline trauma is negated, the strength and integrity of its surrounding original case and other driveline components are, in effect, substantially increased. Cases that occasionally fail with open or limited-slip/posi differentials become one of the strongest links in the drive train when equipped with the POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER. The LOCK-RIGHT has been used in the harshest conditions around the world by hard-core off-roaders, in towing applications, and even United Nation vehicles in rugged terrain. For traction output, strength and durability, the POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT Locker. rivals much more expensive competitive lockers sold only as complete case replacement assemblies. It is a leading product because the LOCK-RIGHT delivers as much traction output, its end assembly is exceptionally strong, is much less expensive, and does not require professional installation (because the complete case assembly does not have to be replaced and realigned with precision calibration equipment). An excellent choice for off-road vehicle applications, performance enthusiasts also began using the LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER to satisfy their extreme traction requirements for racing, hot-rods and muscle cars. The LOCK-RIGHT's operation is fully automatic. Designed to send the engine power to the wheels with the most traction, the LOCK-RIGHT will help get you where you want to go. While traveling straight the LOCK-RIGHT will lock the axles together similar to a spool. However, when the wheels need to differentiate in a turn, the LOCK-RIGHT will allow the outside wheel to rotate faster to complete the turn. The internal gears on the LOCK-RIGHT will overrun each other to allow this differentiation. When operating off-road, the LOCK-RIGHT will always send the engine power to the wheels that need it most. For example, if you are rock crawling and one wheel is in the air (complete loss of traction), the wheel on the ground will receive the engine power and keep you going. Whether it be snow, sand, mud, ice, etc... the LOCK-RIGHT will give you the traction you need. Although smoother than other competitive locking differentials, the brute force characteristics of the POWERTRAX LOCK-RIGHT Locker limit general application in less tolerant and more mainstream applications. In some vehicles, you will hear a light clicking noise as the gears are overrunning themselves and allowing the wheels to differentiate in a turn. This is normal of most lockers on the market today. We recommend the LOCK-RIGHT for vehicles that are primarily driven in severe driving conditions or are used for recreational off-road.
For the same amount of money you can buy a good Eaton and have a quiet dependable unit. I set up a 8.5 in a local GN that runs 9.90s. 30 spline axles, c-clip eliminators, 3.42 gears and an Eaton posi with 800 lb springs and an extra clutch. It has over 300 trouble free passes on it with 60' times in the high 1.3x range and no signs of adverse wear. Car is street driven. The last lock right I pulled from a customer's 11.90/12.0 GN came out in pieces. Primarily street driven, exploded on the first pass at the track. Installed a used posi unit that we had at the shop (new gears too as the exploding lock right damaged the ring gear) and it has been trouble free for the last 4 years.
So, how much more will the Eaton unit cost with the install included?? The Eaton units are in the $500 range. Install is going to be at least 3hrs at $85 an hour plus additonal shims gaskets and what not and diff oil at retail prices. Plus you have leve your car with dickwad at the driveline place. It's not a DIY for most. I don't doubt there are stronger units. The price is not comparable..
Are you spinning on the line? You may have mentioned it or not. I'm too lazy to read through everything. Your 60' is high, but it takes a lot of torque to get the heavy car rolling
The unit can be had for around 400, http://cgi.ebay.com/EATON-POSI-GM-8...s?hash=item19b1fe91b3&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 . The posi can be installed by an amateur with a dial indicator and a micrometer or caliper. You should install new carrier bearings (I'd do this regardless, they are over 30 years old) for about 20 bucks and the shim kit is around 30 bucks. A lockright is $300-$350. Only $150 difference or so if you do it yourself. If the lockright comes apart and hurts something, you'll wind up paying far more to repair the damage plus buy an Eaton anyway. Just my opinion, it's always cheaper to do it once the right way than to do it twice.
He has My car has a 69 350 block 9 to 1 pistons Mildly ported heads Valve Job 1969 GS 350 TA C110 cam Poston Intake 750cfm QJET with .71 primary jets and .43B rods Ck rods in the rear with a K hanger Factroy GS cold air intake with K&N Filter 1/2 in 4-hole Spacer TA Headders Crane Electronic Ignition Custom 2 1/4 exhaust MagnaFlow Mufflers TH350 Stock converter 1400-1600rpm 3.23 gears no posi With 26" (225/60) tires and an open diff..
