$1000 to put into a 430, what should I spend it on?

So i purchased a 430 out a of a 69? riv GS i think. center sump, and stock for all intents and purposes. Theres still a couple of what ifs about the motor, but the compression is all consitent.

#1=160, #2=155, #3=165. #4=160, #5=165, #6=155, #7=175, #8=160

I have a 5/8 pick up tube, rear sump pan, and some other conversion parts already. I think itll need a new waterpump as well, but that doesnt factor into the $1000.

I will be replacing all the gaskets that could cause a motor to leak over the winter. In addition i want to use whatever is left to give this motor as much grunt as possible. Definately a double roller timing chain set, basic tune up stuiff, port matching the heads, some type of aluminum intake, and a new carb.

I looked into having the heads rebuilt, but that seems to be out of the budget as it runs about $1000. Maybe ill just lap the valves myself with some lapping compound and ensure they seal good. Bearings are another "what if". If i pull the pan off and they have gone down to copper, i will either have the crank ground and polished then the bearings replaced. OR i might order one of TA's stock replacement crank kits with new bearings kit.

I dont know what else to look at or install, any ideas? Maybe a cam?

WHATS THE MOST BANG I CAN GET FOR $1k??

Opinions/experiences welcome.

The motor will be backed by a rebuilt TH400 with little or no stall. The engine is going into my 71 post coupe Skylark. :3gears:

 

Well, asking for performance without using a higher stall converter and a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system is hard to answer.

You need to see what the engine needs first. Check the bearings. If they look good, then you need to check the front cam bearing. It will probably need to be replaced. Use TA's dual grooved bearing. TA's adjustable oil regulator and booster plate will help things live.

I'd spend the money making it survive first, THEN worry about hopping it up.

 

Be sure to have the heads checked for cracks as they tend to crack between the water jacket in the head and the oil feed for the rockers.

 

Headers will take a large chunk out of your K note but they are a good investment and free horsepower.

Bob H.

 

I'd say get a hood. Kinda looks naked without one! :laugh:

Scott

 

Don't install the 5/8" pickup unless the other passages have been opened up to accomodate it.

Devon

 

Yes, making it survive is the priority.

And ofcourse i forgot about the oiling mods. Along with the timing set, its getting new gears, a wear plate, and the adjustable regulator.

It already has a 2.5" exhaust, i may opt to go to a 3" down the road. I think my TH350 combo thats in the car right now has the factory stall rating which feels like a 1800 or so stall. If thats what the TH400 has im happy.

Note taken on inspecting the heads for cracks, and for checking the cam bearing.

Devon, is there any adverse effect to using the 5/8" without enlarging the passages? Id imagine it would demand a little more from the pump. If i did the oil mods, what is the best way to clean out the passages without hot tanking the block?

 

No headers.... I dont care to deal with the leaks or the bumps and scrapes after the car is lowered.

Just a preference.

 

Funny guy! :laugh:

 

Assuming everything else is in order, you might look into a carb with at least 800 cfm. Do you have posi? What's the ratio in the rear end?

 

If you get the motor reliable, with oiling then even a mild cam with exhaust is a good starting point on a BBB.
Just don't hop up junk. (Worn bottom ends, cracked heads, worn cam bearings etc.) While you're make your oil plan change, check the bearings you'll soon see where the 1K will go. I agree with the oil pressure spring and regulator before anything.
Make sure your ignition and stock carb are in good working order and maybe install a reliable electronic ignition with an advance curve kit.
Because we are talking motor investment I assume your car already has better than 2.56 gears that came in a 71 Skylark. If not you may want to concentrate some money here with a convertor to match your camshaft.

Tom

 

From a flow standpoint, the oil won't appreciate the sharp transition from the 5/8" pickup ID to the block's 1/2" ID. I now realize you'll have to do it anyway since you'll need a rear sump arrangement.

With the front cover and pan off, you could make the suction enlargements on the engine stand. You'd just have to do a nice job of flushing the passage afterwards while protecting the rest of the exposed internals from debris.

Devon

 

Unless you are going to build something that will turn over 5500 rpms why make any oiling modifications. Change your spring pressure in the pump and you are good to go with what you are doing now. Besides you are taking chance by drilling on the engine or cover and not getting all the debris out. IMHO

Bob H.

 

Thats the part im concerned about..... How would i clean it out completely while on the engine stand? I have an air gun and can get some solvents, but thats about it.

 

That, followed by hot water w/detergent and something like a 16 gauge shotgun cleaning brush & rod would do it. I won't build another big block without oiling mods, even a stocker. Maybe that's just me.

Devon

 

So the rest of the combo is already in place, i will mention it here. The $1k is purely for the motor.

The car will be used and abused on the street 90% of the time. I just dont get enough of a chance to make it to the strip. But id like to have as much grunt as possible.

I have TH400 that will be built with either a Stg2 or Stg3 shiftkit depending on whether id like to shift myself or not. The rear end is not a posi (yet) but will have a 3.08 posi in the spring. The converter will be whatever is there now, with the factory mild stall.

Suspension wise its getting something geared towards handling. 17" wheels and tires. Summit lowering springs, larger sway bars, poly bushings, chevelle 2.5 turns steering box, and a complete brake and suspension rebuild with new stock replacement parts.

Yes the bearings will largely dictate where i spend my money. Id like to change them out no matter what, but if the crank is scored at all, it should be turned or replaced.


It will be receiving atleast a 850cfm carb. Im not too worried about that, as i can sell off my 750DP to recoup some $$$ for that.

 

I guess ill add the tools listed on Jim's site to the budget to do the mods.

Or if i find a finishline scavenger system for cheap maybe ill pick that up .

 

Take a look at the oil intake passage on the front cover when it's apart as well. It can be massaged to work with the larger 5/8" block suction galley. For aan engine with a 5000 rpm limit and close to stock valve spring pressure, you might not need some of the more extensive oil mods. At the least, the suction galley enlargement was important to Buick engineering, as it was a design change for the early 455's.

Devon

 

You say you want to use and abuse this engine. Best do the oil mods. They're free if you have the drill bits/burs etc..
Just rebuilding a shortblock for 1K ain't gonna happen. You need to assess what is needed after teardown. At the very min. crank work (local) $225, TA cam/lifters $265, TA DR chain $80, TA main/rod/cam bearings $270, TA gasket set $70, resized rods you're already over $1000 with duty ect. w/o a oil pump gears/regulator .. $2,000 is a more realistic goal. You may need decking of the heads/block and /or an align hone to square things up. Another issue is the 41 year old rings, they are likely brittle.
Even an aftermarket intake may be out of the budget at 2K but is not needed at the power level you will have. You will also need to check if the guides are good on the heads. Simply lapping stock heads with excessive guide wear will not make the valves seal.
If you have pistons with flaked piston tops from detonation or any isues I have a few good ones std. and .030". Send a PM.
Ray

 

Hi Azeem,
Nice to see you've got it in and running.:TU:
Bruce