Nice going Jim & Jim. In my son's 4000lb Skylark with a procharger with less than 10lbs of boost we think it made close to 1100hp to push his car to a 9:12@150 with only a 1:40 60' with a completely automatic 400 built by Mark DeConti shifting with a govennor at 6200 and going yhru the traps around 7000. Only a Halo girdle & Gessler Stage 3 heads. Engine was built by Scotty. Jim you will be in the 8's if you keep the weight down!
Nice motor you will love it once you go boost you will never look back easy power for sure now you get to step everying up behind it. belt looked to lose to me could have been the issue with it flopping top and bottom you are wearing the front edge of the belt also i can see it moving back and forth that is most likely the bracket bending. typical issues with side slingers that why they are called slingers LOL I left the volume off when I watched it I just had mine running getting ready to go make some 8 second hits tomarrow if the weather doesn't go bad. good luck you are going to love it for sure
thanks for all of the kind words.....the car for sure will need some upgrades to take advantage of the new power! The tensioner on the belt was at max so I will be looking for another cog belt...hopefully I can find one that will work with my set up! I am just wondering what the converter and gearing should be to help he car hook on 10" wide tires.....the car race ready(with me) is around 3600 lbs.... I am sure it will be a wild ride once it gets sorted out.
Nice job guys!!! Looks as though a setup like this could be in order for future power in my drag car. (Guess I should get mine on the track before I talk about future engines huh?) ou: Again, Good Job!! Should be a Handful on the street! Steve
awesome job. once you go to a blower set up it is the best thing in the world. besides the cool whistle the power is awesome when it comes on. we love our setup. there is a big learning curve though if you keep the boost up. as far as getting the car to hook just get the hoosier radial slicks. they come in 30x10.5 and 30x9 they are the best. dont even waste time with anything else. just put the pressure at 20 psi and work from there. do not go lower than 18. most cars work great at 20 or 21. no dissappointments with that tire at all. good luck with that combo john jr
No, that was an AIS system. They both use the same pump but I think AIS has better customer service. :beer :beer :beer I am all smiles:grin:
Guys, The motor shut off at the end of the pull, because Ron (the dyno operator) didn't "catch it". When the dyno's water brake load lets go, he has to yank the throttle back hard, and motors that wear a 30 lbs flywheel will keep running, just because of the intertia of the flywheel. But several years ago, with Sweesy's motor, we devised a "close coupling" method to be able to use an SFI flexplate on even these higher powered engines. Unlike most dyno cells, Ron has so much experience doing a variety of engines, he does a lot of them thru a flexplate. He built a standoff setup that we use up to 700 HP, that the majority of my motors use. And he has tested a lot of them for me, this is the 47th different 455 he has done for me over the years, and of course there have been ones that were done muliple times, this is the second trip thru for this motor (we did the original NA version back in '03), and I think Sweesy's was on the pump about 7 times over the years. So we have this flexplate thing really down, although this was the first time he has made over 1000HP thru one. The only drawback is that due to the light weight of the flexplate, When you close the throttle hard, you have to then "catch it" with a little throttle blip.. Ron is usually pretty good at this, but every one in a while one will shut off like that. But it's really no concern, as far as the engine goes, it's just nice to run a little cooler oil thru the bearings for a second after the pull. He only missed it a couple times, and we did make 19 pulls with the motor, NA and with the blower on. The hose you see is in fact hooked to the bypass/blowoff valve. Every Other motor Ron has done with a procharger and meth injection spray water out the blowoff valve at the end of the pull. We put that hose on there to keep it from spraying all over his wall in the dyno cell. This motor did not do that, and Ron was very impressed with the operation of the Vortec blow off valve. It's nice and quiet, and doesn't blow the alky mixture out when it opens up. As far as cooling on the street, that's not an issue with the water, as it has external hoses run from the TA cover, to the back of the intake, to feed water into the heads, and all the heat is in the cylinder heads. Depending on how much street driving Jim does, he probably will have to have an oil cooler, as the water in the bottom 3/4 of the block is really there to cool the oil, as much as anything. We did see oil temps up to about 230 during the cam break-in, but all the pulls had the oil starting at around 150, and it was at about 165 at the end of the pull. The alumium oil pan is there to help keep the oil cool, as much as anything else. I learned a few things from Ron during this project. He has done quite a number of procharged motors now, and has done the roots blown stuff for 20 years. *Whatever the motor wants for timing NA, it likes with the blower on it. So it's up to the builder to keep the static compression down, so the dynamic stays under control at boost, and you can benefit from the timing it really wants. * He has done every Centrifical S/C motor, both with and without the blower, and without exception, regardless of the motor specs, it takes 17 psi to double the NA horsepower. So to make 1000 HP at 10psi, your base motor has to make around 650, with no boost. Had we pulled this thing to 6500, it would have doubled the HP, and then some, at 17 PSI, so that rule of thumb was right on. * This particular blower was used on a 1033 HP FE Ford, and they tested it to see how much HP the blower used to turn it. At 12psi, it consumed 120 HP. Roughtly 10 HP per 1 lbs of boost, so roughly, the motor made 1187 HP, although aproximately 170 HP was consumed at the front of the crank. Of course these are just educated guesses, we would have had to spin this motor, with the blower on and restriced, but not feeding the engine, to 17 psi, to get that exact number. I have some more video to share here, of the motor both off and on the pump, but that was the one with the camera in the cel. Later on when I get a chance, I will post a few more. JW
Sure... just make sure you have a medium size suitcase full of $20 bills with it.. There is no such thing as cheap HP, although this blower stuff is a great bang for the buck. On the belt, Ron was not concerned at all about it. Those cog belts tend to do that, when the blower is mounted out there, as well as on roots style stuff. It was transfering a little material from the back of the belt to the idler pulley, but it was Ron's opinion this had more to do with the idler not having a polished surface on it, than belt tension. The Vortec instructions it say over an over that a cog belt does not have to be that tight, and honestly, it was about as tight as I would normally run a V-belt on an alternator. You would think it was floppy loose from looking at the video, but that's not the case. I think it has more to do with the position of the bower(the belt is really long) and the position of the tensioner, as it does with belt tension. Bottom line, it stayed on thru about 10 pulls. It does look wild tho.. I will agree. JW
Yup, it takes heat to make HP.. now you know why the serious turbo guys run stainless steel headers. JW
The dyno's cooling tower has an electric water pump in line in the lower raditor hose, just out of the picture. Not using the factory pump, on a NA motor, makes it safter to do things like adjust the timing, especially on Buicks and mopars, with the front mounted distrib, but also to check the timing on all engines, and it's safer to not have belts spinning, when you walk by the motor. Remember, he does over 400 motors a year, and the customer and friends are typically always there, so it's a saftey concern for him. Yes, that was on the combo bypass/blow off valve, as near as we could tell, it closed completely at about 4300 rpm and 8 psi.. but this will change with a different pulley, and it is adjustable for Jim to work with in the car. Ya, different deal, those Rib belts have to be banjo string tight.. Side load on the snout of the crank is a concern with the all centrifical S/C belts, so yes, I do believe it does help lessen that. I beleive the cog belt will be easier on the balancer, the crank, and the front main bearing, in the long run. I have done both Rib and cog belt centrifical blowers now, and I really like the cog setup. Direct drive would be better of course.. JW
Your right about that Bobb.. I kept thinking the whole time.. This is cheating... Knowing what it takes to make 870 Hp NA, this is much easier. I have to beleive it's also a lot less load on the parts. I don't think I would have tried to build George's motor with a stock cast crank, even if you could get the 500+ inches it takes to make that HP with a NA motor. Good luck on your runs today. JW
Sounds like you need to add another engine to your lineup! Maybe a Level 5 Pro-Charged Engine! :laugh: If you build it, they will come!
