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Z bar tech tip

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by copperheadgs1, Sep 11, 2015.

  1. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    This little bit of info may be a big help to anyone removing or repairing a Z bar from a 70-72 A body. Other years I suspect may be the same. For some of you 4 speed fanatics this may be old hat but for guys like me who have more knowledge on autos it is a great help and will keep you from driving yourself nuts. I had an annoying squeak coming from that area. I could see the original rubber washer seal used on 455 only. The original I used was pretty chewed up and no one makes a new one so I decided to swap it out with the felt washer used on other GM set ups. I set this up before the body was back on the frame so no big deal. You need to disconnect the clutch pedal bar link under the master cylinder then get the car off the ground and disconnect the clutch adjuster linkage. This gives you up and down play so the z bar can slide out of the slot in the frame bracket. I the wasted close to an hour trying to figure how to get the damn nut off the z bar at the frame braket. Over and under the car about 10 times and no good way to get a wrench on that nut. Finally my shop light hit it just right. I could see the nut through the wheel well because the wheel was hanging. I removed the three screws in the plastic baffle and the stupid thing was staring me right in the face. Two minutes later it was changed. You can take the wheel off for better access but it is not really necessary as long as the wheel is hanging with car safely in jack stands. Again this may be obvious to some guys that have done this often but I hope it can help someone save hours of frustration. Now how many of you 455 guys are running around with your original rubber washer? It has to be worn by now. Not everyone is lucky like Jason Cook to have a stash of NOS.
     
    copperheadgs1, Sep 11, 2015
    #1
  2. taf44667

    taf44667 69 Vert 4-Speed

    It's also used on the 69 400 as well, mine is not torn but beat up a little and will be used unless I find something nicer.

    Terry
     
    taf44667, Sep 11, 2015
    #2
  3. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Terry, keep an eye on it as it can become metal on metal
     
    copperheadgs1, Sep 11, 2015
    #3
  4. taf44667

    taf44667 69 Vert 4-Speed

    Wish I was to the point in the restoration to do that, it's in a plastic baggie somewhere and most likely to stay there a while...:grin:
     
    taf44667, Sep 11, 2015
    #4
  5. sriley531

    sriley531 Excommunicado

    Mine did that. I fixed by going to a hydraulic throw out bearing... :eek::D:cool:
     
    sriley531, Sep 11, 2015
    #5
  6. 87GN_70GS

    87GN_70GS Well-Known Member

    Wasn't there a mopar rubber seal that is close enough but it fits ok?
     
    87GN_70GS, Sep 14, 2015
    #6
  7. taf44667

    taf44667 69 Vert 4-Speed


    Yes there was but wrong end of z-bar, we are talking about frame side rubber seal you are talking about engine side seal.
     
    taf44667, Sep 14, 2015
    #7
  8. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Yeah, I figured that one out a while back. ive had my Z bar out a few times.

    Funny, I got Lisk on that at the BPG resto seminar. He had the felt washer. I caught a couple other things before Ken started reaching for my neck! :laugh:
     
    CJay, Sep 14, 2015
    #8
  9. dl7265

    dl7265 No car then Mopar

    That's the ball stud boot , still trying to get one repo. The dodge will "work" with some cursing, looks nothing like OEM.


    DL
     
    dl7265, Sep 16, 2015
    #9

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