Bear with me if this gets long! OK so I'm looking to put a 455 in my Skylark. After searching old threads on cam selection and other issues I figured I'd get some discussion going my project. How the car will be used- I drive the car as a driver (3k to 6k a summer). It has 2.93 gears which I plan on keeping because I drive on the highway alot. But at the same time I want stoplight to stoplight power. I don't plan on going to the track. Too far away and too much of a risk if I have to drive it home. I'm keeping points, exhaust manifolds and stock intake. Current setup- The car has an M20 in it. It is a 350 2bl. Obviously not enough go for me. Engine Machine Shop- I found a shop that will do the short block for me for $800 ready for me to assemble. $1400 if he puts it together and does the R&R. This includes balancing the rotating assembly, machining the block, reconditioning the rods, resurfacing the flywheel, and I have to supply all parts. Parts I have so far- 76 double scallop block, 70 heads, 70 carb, reman. points distributor, 70 cast intake. What I have planned is having Greg Gessler doing a Stg 1 job on the heads, John Osbourne rebuilding the carb, and the local guy doing everything else. Plans-I guess I'm thinking about a TA 212 or the 290-94H with a double roller timing chain. TA lifters and adjustable pushrods (size 3/8 or 5/16 ?). Also looking at the forged Wiseco Pistons because they're a complete package with pins and rings. I think you have to put together Sealed Power Pistons and Rings sets so the price is comparable. Questions- I have a ton Do I buy all the parts (ie .10 under main and rod bearings assuming the crank needs to be done?) now and give them to the builder with the block or wait for him to go through the block before buying? Same with .030 over pistons. Can I use the old rocker shafts and just buy new arms? If the block doesn't need to be decked do I need adj pushrods. Will my 350 exhaust system bolt right up to the 455 exhaust manifolds? Can a threaded hole be put in the block for the Z bar ball stud and does anyone know the measurements? Is my 350 non AC radiator sufficient for the 455? Are aluminum 455 frame mounts OK for everyday driving. Does the TA Orange Crush had gasket fit the double scallop block? If I take the whole pulley assembly (crank, PS bracket, Water Pump) off a 67 LeSabre 400/430 w/o AC will it function properly although not correct for a 70 455? I'm sure I have more questions but I'm stumped right now. I appreciate all imput/ criticism. Also, I know about HEI, B4B's SP1's, Mallory 6AL's and headers, but for some reason I want it to look inconspicuous. Like I said, I'm not concerned with ET's. Thanks for reading, Paul
Yes. You never know what he will find. If the old setup looks ok, use it. However, new shafts and arms aren't that expensive. If the cam base circle is different, yes. No.
I'm with Scott on this, don't buy a thing until the cleaning and inspection of the block, heads and crank are done, it could make a huge difference in your part selection. I do know that the base circle on the 290-94 is a good bit smaller, I had to go with adjustable pushrods to eliminate the noise and get the right preload. Rebuilt rocker assy's are money well spent.
Your stock exhaust will not bolt to the 455 manifolds, I just went through this. It sounds like a waste of money to port the heads if your not going to upgrade the rest of the system. You shouldn't ever order parts with out a full spec of the block. it may be .060 over and unusable, cracked or even need an align bore. You need to do a full spec, then make decisions with your machinist. you should probably plan on decking the block, since the are never square. When upgrading the cam, it is always a good idea to have an adjustable valve train. If your rockers are loose, you need to determine what wore out. its either going to be the shaft or the rockers, then replace as neccessary. The hole fo rthe Z-bar should be in the block, at least in every block I've ever seen.
Joe, Thanks for the info. This is why the board works so well. The block is a 75-76 and trust me the hole is not there. I don't think it's a waste but I want someone who knows heads to do the head work. I guess the other parts besides internals can be bought first. Just save the $$$ and put it all down at once rather than piecing it together over time. Seems to be the way to go. Paul
Ha NOPE, DON'T DO IT! Those dang M20's are JUNK! You should just send it and ALL-related 4-speed parts to me! I'll dispose of them! Grant, Not gonna happen. I was lucky and fell into the car. All the parts were there. I feel bad for guys who need to scrap for parts. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. Paul
