So last weekend I was investigating a small oil drip at the rear of the motor and it led me to remove the torque converter cover. I cleaned the whole area up and tightened up some loose (not as tight as I thought they should be) oil pan bolts thinking that may be the culprit. I fired it up to see if any oil was leaking and I noticed the flex plate had a very noticeable wobble (about a 1/4" front to back) the torque converter however was spinning dead straight. I noticed awhile back my balancer and crank pulley had a slight wobble to it (not as much as the flex plate) but it usually got less once it was warmed up. Can anyone give me any ideas as to what's going on and how to fix it? Is it safe/ok to drive it how it Is? I did road test it Monday evening and when I got back the oil drip was present again. It seems like everytime I look into fixing one issues another one pokes it's head out. As some of you may know from another post that I'm having low oil pressure issues as well and I can almost guarantee that these two issues are linked together and that I'm not going to like what the responses that I think I'm going to get I've been trying to post the videos but the site isn't letting me for some reason??
Might be thrust bearing. Cut open your oil filter. http://engineprofessional.com/articles/EPQ215_48-52.pdf
If it's the thrust bearing I will find metal shavings in it right? I watched a video on YouTube from summit racing showing how the TCI flex plates work/move. In the video it shows it "flexing" front to back like the symptoms I explained. Maybe it's actually ok?? I really wish I could post the video so I can have other more experienced eyes see what I'm seeing to tell me if it's all good or I got problems!
Been chasing that oil leak for years. Even went as far as to pull the engine and reseal the pan / front / rear seals. Still got a drip.
You mentioned that the crank pulley was wobbling as well. That coupled with your low oil pressure made me think of the thrust bearing. If you can move the crank forward or back, enough where you notice, it is probably bad, and yes, you would find metal in the filter I would think.
I will try tonight after work to push/pull the crank pulley to see if the crank moves at all. This may be a rhetorical question but the motor has to come out to replace the thrust bearing correct? It can't be done from underneath the car with the motor still in? I wanted to enjoy cruising the car this summer and not pull the engine. Is it ok to drive it just not beat on it or will I have severe catastrophic damage/engine failure??
Here's a video of the crank balancer/pulley it has a slight wobble to it but not much and it usually planes out a bit more once it's all warmed up
Check for hairline cracks in the flexplate (especially at the large 2-1/2" holes), or cracks at the converter to flexplate bolt tabs. I had cracks in my Skylarks original 350 flexplate. Larry
I owned my 72 Skylark 350 for 12 years. I went through 4 flexplates in those 12 years. They all developed cracks, one actually lost an entire chunk and it got caught between the teeth and inspection cover. The newer 350 flexplates they sell today are much better. They look more like the big block flexplates. I guess they eventually crack once they have flexed too many times.
Though I have never personally had an OEM BBB flexplate crack on any of my builds (which I have pushed beyond the advisable limits), .... I have had one 455 core engine that came from an Electra that had a flexplate cracked bad. Larry
So in your guys opinions that flexplate has more wobble to it than it should? Also can I unbolt the torque converter push it back like I've read on other posts and unbolt the flexplate and remove it or do I have to pull the whole engine to get the flexplate off? Just add a little bit more info I don't hear any grinding or feel any shaking or shuddering when I'm driving the car
I had a BBB auto that had a cracked flex plate. You could watch it 'wobble with the cover off. I believe we put a new one in without taking down the trans. I don't think it was pretty, but we did it. When it first cracked I heard a little ticking as the plate moved past itself, but after that I never heard a thing. Duane
If there are no other symtoms--starter engages well, without excess noise, thrust clearance on the crankshaft isn't excessive, engine doesn't shake, flexplate isn't cracked, etc.--I'd forget I ever saw that wobble. I'm not saying the wobble is desirable, but it wouldn't keep me awake at night. You're not going to have enough room to unbolt the flexplate with the converter slid back into the trans. Either the engine comes out or the trans moves back.
Well I checked the end play of the crank and the thing doesn't budge at all so I think it's good! I still have to check for cracks in the flex plate and while I'm under there looking I'll check all the bolts and make sure they're all tight. There's no other symptoms schurkey the starter engages properly, no noises or grinding of any sorts and the motor doesn't shake violently just shakes like a 455 with a big cam in it. Another thing I thought of is when I spoke to the previous owners mechanic he said the crank was polished but never mentioned anything about being balanced with the new rods and pistons maybe it is just out of balance? I did also notice oil seeping(very little) from the front of the pan where it meets the timing cover which I've read in here can be a problematic are to get to seal. Maybe I'll just Cruise in it this summer and take it easy on it and keep my eye on the oil issues and pull the motor at the end of the season. I still plan on pulling apart the oil pump to make sure everything is good in there and I'm going to cut open my oil filter Like Larry suggested to see if there shavings in it.
There's a lot of "funniness" happening in that 2nd. video. I believe the flex plate needs to be replaced as it's cracked excessively.
I had a jw wheel that was never flat, wasn't cracked..........when I turned the motor over by hand it had about .050 run out.......the crank flange was straight as an arrow, when pulled up to the converter it got better but between the bolts it still had run out. Maybe it's just bent, should be able to drop the trans out the bottom in very little time, especially if you have rack access. 6 bolts on the trans, 3 on the converter, 2 on the mount 4 on the crossmember, 4 on the shaft, 2 lines 1 cable and a 1 wiring plug should be it.......assuming everything that was there is and nothing that wasnt, isnt
Believe it or not, but I think that's normal, I've noticed mine does the same, and Im not concerned. That's why its called a "flex" plate. Worn thrust bearing and low oil pressure are different issues.
