I see a bunch of you are MCs from many others. Im just curious just how many are using a Wilwood MC...... I dont care about other brands.. Reason Nobody makes a MC that fits my needs..... 7/8 bore manual. FWIW I will not put vacuum brakes on my car... Hydro-Boost plausible.....
Thanks Ben. I found your post https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/master-cylinder-size.347304/.
AFTER you have bleed the system move to the master. When you think you've gotten ALL the air in the system out after regular bleeding move to the lines coming out of the master. Use rags to catch the fluid coming out. When someone is stepping on the pedal, not hard, crack open the line & let the fluid out & tighten the line & move to the next line. Do this a couple of times for each port. IF there is ANY air it should bleed out. IF this doesn't make an improvement add a 2lb. residual pressure valve in the rear brakes ONLY at the begining/in front of the 1/4" line. This will keep a slight bit of pressure in the system to the rear & the brakes will not drag. You can't believe how much fluid it takes to start activating/filling the rear 1/4" brake line. You also have the option of replacing the 1/4" line with 3/16ths. IF it doesn't work out to your satisfaction the residual pressure valve is cheap in comparasion to the cost of replacement M/C's. Just my thoughts as I've been this route MANY times before. Tom T.
I learned a goofy trick on bleeding MCs. Years ago I had a MC that just would bleed for the life of it. I was ready to exchange it for another. I took a hypodermic needle and injected brake fluid into the holes at the bottom of the reservoir while MC is off car so you can tip the MC uphill downhill . That pushed all the air out of the plunger bore...Fluid just pours though the lines. Bleeding is a piece cake after that. Then I just let it gravity feed after that...... Never had a issue after that..
