I need to spend some hours under the car to remove 50 year old dirt and the remnants of an undercoating. The frame is out and currently resting on some boards and jack stands but don't feel real comfortable under it like that. I am either going to use 4x4s and cinder blocks and lay on my back or I saw this car rotisserie. The seller does not have the specs for it. Question: How much do you think the 70 GS weighs. All that is on it is, the doors, front and rear glass, rear 1/4 glass, headliner, new factory style floor sound deadener, dash, dash pad, heater core, heater box, brake pedals and brake power booster, and all dash wiring and gauges. No seats, no interior no carpet or armrest or door panels... By looking at the pics, do you think it will hold the shell as I described? Thanks https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/695560006105616/?mibextid=dXMIcH
I think it would be a lot better and safer if the two ends were connected at the bottom. With all the parts you have still attached to the body there is a bit more weight than you may think. The roto body unit we used on my car had a large square tube connecting the two ends and also pnuematic tires/wheels that made it easy to move around. It was a pleasure to work on the underbody that way for sure. The car I'm working on now was supported be four lacquer thinner drums and two 2x4"s screwed together. I tripled the 2x4's on top of the drums to make more stable.
There should be hydraulic jacks for raising and/or turning. They are not neutral and can spin quickly. You will have difficulty turning it.
Good catch..... the lifting could be done with a farm jack.... The spinning,,,, that thing is a accident waiting to happen...... The made in Canada in the steel is just that. The steel was made in Canada...
I just did a quick look & since I lent mine to someone (former board member) & never got it back I sorta need one & tbh, was suprised at how relatively inexpensive they are. What I don't like about the one on FB is it doesn't appear you can adjust the centerline so as otjers have said, that body will spin/flip. I saw this one & w/o looking at it too closely, for a couple hundred $ more seems much nicer. Regardless of what you do if you want to sell it when done, lmk. https://www.redlinestands.com/catal...1eM_na-h0kIX1PmUzMLE3bSOpBcqUWJ8Hc4djUSqFW6AY
I would hesitate to put an empty shell on that thing, let alone an assembled one... Mine is built with tubing about twice that size. It weighted 800 lbs when I had it delivered when new, and I have had several fully assembled 70-72 A body shells on it. Mine was from Accessible Systems in TN.. super HD unit that has served me well for decades. Was not cheap, I paid over 3K for it in 2003. But they are out of the business now, driven out by the cheap knock offs coming in from China. JW
Yeah, all I need it for is to clean the under body and throw some spray paint on it... I think I'll just use the cinder block and 4x4 method and lay on my back for hours haha
That thing is gar-baage.....standing or sitting is better than on the back for sure especially for me...my ass will go to sleep But large jack stands can under the lower fender support there off the cowl....a gentry crane is useful for all kinds of things and new they are like $650 or so....then hook it to rear body mounts with a chain and use a towel to keep it from resting on the body lip
I have one you can borrow, not sure where you are located. Maybe NY since that is where the ad was from?? Maybe too far for you to drive???
I would not use cinder blocks, they are really not designed to support weight and crush easily. I've used large jack stands and an engine hoist to lift the body up on each end. This was for an empty shell, but did the same thing to the turbo regal that was complete. 4x4 posts front to rear, then 4x4 posts across gave some additional clearance.
Brad, glad you got it all figured out, told you it would be easy. You will love the rubber inflated tires to roll around. Us Buick guys got to stick together...
