Why me? Low Brake Pedal

72 GS 350 Conv. 4 wheel drums.

Just put on new rear brakes, rebuilt one wheel cylinder

Take her for a spin.

The brake pedal seems like it travels too far. I can lock the wheels and/or stop quickly but the pedal seems like its on the floor before I have a great effect.
I re-bled the rears, and adjusted up the brakes on front and rear but still it travels too far. When I push hard to to stop quickly the brake light comes on in the dash.

There's lots of fluid in the master cylinder
No fluid dripping on the floor.
Basically if I pump the pedal until its firm and hold it seems to stay hight, but if I release it I have to pump again to make it firm. It seems fine to drive except for the brake light coming on when the pedal is pushed hard.

 

I forgot to mention....

I bought a new wheel cylinder first, but it was nothing like the one on my car.

Both autozone and advance auto parts had the same "wrong one". The ones on my car, had the rubber caps that are pressed inside on each end. The parts stores had ones where the rubber caps were pressed on the outside like mushrooms. Autozone did have a rebuild kit that worked for my original, however here is what I should have mentioned in my first post.

My original wheel cylinder had the bleeder valve broken off. I didnt see it until I had taken it off to rebuild it and I couldnt get it out. It wasnt leaking either so I had to use it. So when I bled the rears lines I had to bleed this one through the line. Do you think there is any air left in that wheel cylinder?

 

That certainly may be the problem, or at least is contributing to it! That bleeder's got to be replaced to do the job right. There's lots of room for air to remain if you try to bleed from the tube nut.

Devon

 

Does anyone have a picture of the rear wheel cylinder on thier Lark or GS?

Is it the type with the rubber ends pressed in or the type with the rubber caps that are pushed on over the outside?

 

See your other post....you have a bad master cylinder.

 

:Smarty: I got a set of wheel cylinder from Advanced auto parts and they worked fine on my 69 GS.... :Smarty: I don't think they looked the same as my originals ..but as long as there the same length, they fit the backing plate and the bore size is correct use them...
uzzled: as far as the long pedal travel you have air in you lines.... :shock: and you won't get it out except... thru the bleeders

:Smarty: so... my advice is.... get two new wheel cylinders and git-er-done you cars too nice too play around with funky brakes :bglasses: :TU:

 

Replace the wheel cylinders. You CANNOT bleed the air out through the line. If you looak at the wheel cylinder the bleeder is above the line, at the highst point of the cylinder. This is because air will rise to the highest point of the wheel cylinder and then is released by the bleeder.

 

I wonder if the master cylinder lost its prime. I had the same pedal and could not get fluid out the bleeders. Bleeders were fine, not broken. Re-primed the master cylinder in the car and within a few pumps I had fluid streaming out of the bleeders.