That's good to know. Is your car a console automatic or column shift? I have a column shift so I wasn't going to install a manual/automatic shift kit, just a shift improver for hard/crisp shifts by leaving it in "D".
I've got a column shift as well. The shift kit I bought from Turbo Action in Florida many years ago, I don't know if they still sell them. It seemed similiar to many of the other shift improver kits on the market. I never did go and modify the governer to make it shift at higher rpms so I can leave it in drive and GO. I usually shift it manually, and wind it to 5600 for the 1-2 and 5800 for the 2-3 when I'm giving it a work out. It will bark the tires when it shifts into second. I know I need to get a better set of tires, the little P215-70-14 Cooper Cobras don't hook all the time at the track, though it is fun to blow them away and smoke em on the street every now and then! :3gears: My 60' times are usually in the 2.0x to 2.1x range and I know if I could get those down into the 1.8 or 1.9 range I'd like it a lot!
Hector, I have in mind a cam that makes power between 2500 and 7000. That way I can make use of the custom crank and rods I'm geting and the ported heads... Either funny gas or charger to add fun at the track.
POSTON GS 105A. Great cam, easy 11 second set up in a 455. Not very much vacuum, very lumpy, idles at 1100. I have had it in a street car for 15 years. Makes power to 7000 RPM, but, your bottom end sure better be set up right. Shift at 6500.
Poston GS118....real nice lope and it really pulls hard to redline. I've had Poston 114's and Isky's besides this one. It gives me enough vacuum to operate my accessories and it's the angriest automobile camshaft I've ever had!!
ugh...someone help me... I can't find anything with info on a 292 Erson cam...can someone help me out?
I use the poston gs350-110 because i have a low comp motor (8.5cr)and poston uses lamemin terms and had no clue what the actual numbers ment at the time when i was looking at TA lol and oh lespaul check this out http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/BuickCaddy.pdf
thanks....but im not the brightest crayon in the box... i don't really understand those specs. ou: ...I can't wait until i'm "un-new" at this car thing...being the new guy, isn't exactly fun...
Whomever rebuilt my eng 15 + or so years ago must have put in that towing cam..just a tad bigger than stock.. Which ever that one is. I drove another 1970 Lark on saturday that has almost the same setup as mine. 2 bll with hooker headers and it wasn't anywhere near as torquey as mine is. All the power is a lil further up in the high-end. His seemed to take a lil more throttle to burn the tires too.. unlike mine where a sharp whomp on the pedal will break them lose. His needed a good power brake. I'm guessing because my lark was originally setup as a long distance tower and already had a trans cooler and beefed up rear suspension for long hauls on the trailer hitch..
Start by read ing article like this. You could also borrow generic hot rot books from the library to get a basic starting point http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0607phr_camshaft_basics/
Thanks Sean, you're a great help my friend.Seems quite complex and still confusing, but you have to start somewhere:TU:
All the fancy numbers aside whats important is the rpm range that a cam works best in. A stock cam works well from idle to about 4500 rpm before it looses steam. A mild cam like yours will start to make power at a little higher rpm like say 2000 rpm and pull to about 6000 rpm A race cam will feel week untill 3000 rpm but make big power up untill the heads run out of air (6000 rpm without porting and higher with) The reason that everyone suggests a rear gear swap is to keep the motor in the rpm range that the cam will make power. Hope this helps, keep asking Chase!
Im runnning an old Lunati 235... 492 lift 238-248 Duration Bin in the engine for 10 years and out lasted a set of valve springs
I am not sure what camshaft I would like to use. My motor still has the stock 8.5 to 1 Compression ratio, but the TA 284-88H I want to use requires 9 to 1. I am going to swap on ported heads so could the heads be milled to give me that extra point? I would also like to throw in a shift kit and a 2200 stall converter. Replacing my 2.56 gears is not something I would like to do. Any advice?
Hey cason, It depends what heads you to use and and head gasket thickness you can definitly get a .5 compression.. As far as gears go i dont know what rear you have but 331 gears are a nice gear that would wake up your car and not affect driver friendlyness..
Where can I get thinner head gaskets? TA doesn't have them. I want to have Gessler make me a set of 1971 heads, so any modification there to increase compression is no big deal, and will be done. I am still worried about swapping gears. I am going to have to drive this car back and forth from college for the next few years and I would rather not be winding high RPMs struggling to keep up with traffic, and I know I could swap in a 200R4, but I would rather keep my stock gears and do a trans swap later. Where can I find a deal on a stall converter?
I have original GM NOS 350 head gaskets (Steel Shim .020" thick) these gaskets are usually half the thickness of a replacement gasket. http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/m...6b90dacee04cfe7285256dea007ad886!OpenDocument
