1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

which steps to do first

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by taz 76regal, May 1, 2016.

  1. taz 76regal

    taz 76regal Well-Known Member

    Hello all 76 regal sr coupe already have the inner and outer tie rods out,notice ball joints upper and lower need to be done.Now in what order of steps is easier reinstall tie rods and then do ball joints or do ball joints first then tie rods?.also advise needed on upper ball joints?.Thanks all. Also noticed that the tranny has a leak car shifts fine hoping it may be a seal or connection it looks to coming out at the oval cover just before the tranny pan.
     
  2. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    If the tie rods are already out, I'd go ahead and do the ball joints while you have them off. Hang the brake caliper on the frame and remove the spindle. If you leave the shock in place, it will usually keep the spring from hurting you. I would use a jack stand under the control arm just for good measure. If you ever have plans to change springs, you are very close. Also, taking the arms out and taking them to a shop makes pressing/grinding the ball joints out a lot easier. I've usually done it on the car with a rented press from Advance or Autozone so you don't need to remove them if you don't plan to replace anything else, like control arm bushings, springs, etc.

    On the upper ball joint, if you can get the upper a-arm out, it is easier to grind the rivets if they are the originals. If not, you can use an air chisel to knock the heads off and tap them out with a punch.

    On that trans, the first thing to do is clean it up and track down where the leak is coming from. Front seal requires something to come out, engine or trans. Not fun so you can try filling it back up with some Type-F fluid to help swell the seals a bit. That is what we used to do in the dark ages. If it is the rear seal, dispstick tube, pan gasket, shifter rod or speedo housing, those are pretty easy to replace.

    Post some pics if you have questions and we'll be able to make a better recommendation.
     
  3. taz 76regal

    taz 76regal Well-Known Member

    Tks Greg
     
  4. taz 76regal

    taz 76regal Well-Known Member

    here are some pics of the suspected tranny leak sorry bout the quality of pics car is on jackstands
     

    Attached Files:

  5. taz 76regal

    taz 76regal Well-Known Member

    these pics are of the inspection cover from the engine to tranny
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page