Whats a better carb for a 401 bored .030 with 9.8:1 Compression?

I said that I would make no more comment on this subject, but you have kinda forced me into it; it is my understanding that these people were Decatur line crews. They certainly were familiar with those voltages. As to the business and financial aspects - there are times when you say "the hell with it" and just pitch in. People are suffering and need help. The fact that this situation arose is ridiculous. Just for the record: I was a union member for 23 years. Being a union member does not automatically make you better at your job then a non-union member. The guys who built the pyramids were not union members. I think that they did a pretty good job of construction.

 

You dont hear much of people running them anymore, and I havent seen one at the drags - maybe there are just plain better chioces out there (Quadrajets!)

But in alot of articles I read, the TQ was the swap of choice back in the 70's, especially on Buicks..I'll try to scan and post some of this stuff.....

 

Well,, about carbs,, there are better carbs out there.... and most all are good when they are in good condition.... but I have to say that when humans get their hands on them, conditions change rapidly....of the run-of -the-mill carbs , the holleys are the easiest to work with and have more accessories available , in more places , than any other... for a reasonable price....
That is why i like them...
the top of the line carbs would be the Webbers.... they are the closest thing you can get to F.I. in a carb....but, they are pricier than I can afford....by the time you buy the intake for them, the carb, and the aircleaner system....

Now as to unions,,, the man that believes all the hogwash that the unions puts out is a fool....all unions promise you the moon but when it comes time to deliver , are sadly lacking..... but some trades need a union to keep the companies from really abusing the workers... the railroads are one of those..... I was just a member and then at the end , I was the union chairman.... The unions are out for their selves... plain and simple, they will sell a member down the drain in a heart beat... most of the time to ''compromise'' with the company....but they keep you from working cheap... time was that unions would walk out and lock down a company if the company abused just 1 member... but no more... they dont want to ''rock the boat''....
In a natural disaster,,, if you really want help and average Joe does,, then when help shows up you use common sense and and put them to work... and worry about trivial s later... We in the south have weathered a lot more of those storms than the folks up north and are good at cleaning the mess up.... it just makes sense to accept the help....without making a issue of whether they are ''union'' or not..... we all are in the ''United Brotherhood of Humanity''......nuff said.....

 

Well said Doc. I would add to that, but I can't keep it from being political. I'll send you a PM.

 

glad you all are OK.

 

The www.thecarburatorshop.com has either new or rebuilt 800CFM Thermoquads for $339. with electric chokes. I have read that the phonelic body's can be be repaired.

 

There is a reason why the thermoquad is not still produced.....:Brow: When you try to use them , the engine heat makes the plastic body warp and the thing starts leaking vacume and fuel.... that and the forces induced by assembly/installation....:Smarty::Smarty:

 

I've got a brand new thermoquad that came with my 73, and it's sitting on my bench staring back at me...It probably needs a soft parts rebuld (and those are kinda complex to break down!) -It cant have mmore than one season on it......

I've still got that whole "Carb Swap Comparo" that fell apart on me last year, I'd love to try it again this year, after the PSMCDR if I can make it. So maybe a track rental day in October.

I could swap back to back - The AFB (doc modded manifold and not) the ThermoQuad, my 4165 Square Bore Holley, the 66 750 Q-Jet, the modded 1973 800cfm Q-Jet, a 2nd gen (1976) 800 CFM Q-Jet and Tom's modded intake with a 750 Square Bore Holley...Then I'll write the whole thing up and sell the article to Car Craft or something!

 

my 2 cents here, the plus of the thermo was adjustable secondary and keeping the fuel cooler. the q-jet and the new edelbrock thunder has that. keeping the fuel cooler you can do that with a modern insulator spacer. besides the photos on post #20 looks great.

 

Hey Rhett What size TQ do you have.

 

I believe it's the 800 - I remember I checked the numbers when I got it.....it's not the big dog....

I believe it was stamped 2-315 on the primary air valves.

 

Heat is NOT a problem with the "Nails" "Air Gap" manifold design. As you well know Doc at engine operating temp. with the engine running the manifold has a hard time getting to 150*, so in reality it should NOT warp. Of course this is just theory as I don't have any 1st. hand experience with this. But, we DO know that if you block the heat from the heads into the intake until fully & completely warmed at operating temp. they still have a tendency to hesitate. Right Rhett????


Tom T.

 

Thanks for checking Rhett .Nothing like new Parts I have a 850 wonder if any parts are the same.

 

Actually they did make a 1000 cfm Tquad....and ,,,, When I was thinking of heat warping, Tom, I was not thinking of the heat in the intake.... I was thinking of the heat coming out of the radiator.... Every time I have taken temps of my nailhead intakes, I get readings of 127-130 deg. at idle after 20 mins. run time.... where the coolant temps can run from 180 to 220 deg....

 

You're both right. My car ran like a pig with no heat to the manifold, like Doc often points out they need heat. I have the carb pad blocked off with brass plugs, but there is still pleny of ambient heat at the carb. I want to say I've seen 170 at the manifold on a hot day at the track, and if I'm hot swapping a carb I cant hold it without gloves, same with the air cleaner. So there may be something to what Doc says.....

However, I have to believe the TQ can take temps up to 200 or so without short term damage, I mean they were OEM on ALOT of Chryslers...

Of course my only personal experience with one was a 1980 Plyouth Gran Fury Interceptor 360. My biuddies car...It actually didnt leak or run bad, but what an incredibly underpowered dog. No wonder Cops were always seemingly in a bad mod back then! I will say though, we put on some 1st gen Goodyear Eagle GT tires off a Z-28 and that car could HANDLE! Could take turns at alarming speed, if you could get it going fast enough....

 

Adding this Q-jet # 7042240 to a 425 .30 over, Isky RV cam 270 dur. int & exh. adv @ 50 =214 .469 lift 114 lobe, ported heads ported manifolds and dual plane q-jet manifold ported ala gessler, with ST300 12" converter in ST400 with the Star Wars aircleaner. What ype of power can I be looking at in a 65 Riviera.

 

Snake, for what it's worth, I'd look at switching your cam before you finish your build. That's very mild, and honestly will not even come close to taking advantage of all the work you've got in the heads, intake, or exhaust manifolds.

 

What would you recommend Andy.

 

Depends on what your goals are. A good off the shelf grind would be the TA-25 from TA Performance. A good step up from that would be the 284-94H from Schneider Racing Cams. And of course you can always get one custom ground. I think the cam from Schneider would be a good balance of performance and streetability.

 

Hey Snake, just wondering what gears are in the rear? Kinda heavy car. Mabey some of the riv guys will have some fed back on the cams they are useing in there rivs.