I just put a new timing kit in, a gs114 cam and lifters, had the valves ground and replaced on my heads, and a new 2 1/2" exhaust. Where is the power? I did have to replace the carb because the dag gone threads stripped on the fuel filter housing. I replaced it with a manual trans carb. surely that is not it. Please help! It sounds good but at WOT its a dog.
Sounds like the secondarys are not opening. several things can cause this. Look in the section on carbs and you'll find all the info you need to get it going. You might have the timing off too but I wil assume you put the cam in right. Any vehicle would run better when the cam is phased correctly using a degree kit
Pretty much what John said emphasizing the CAM timing issue. Was it degreed in? What timing chain set was used? What are the .050" specs on the GS114? I believe it is not too big so that shouldn't kill a mild setup and should actually help top end. If you search around you can get fuel inlet repair fittings that make their own threads to repair Q-Jets. I'd do that first just to get your other carb out of the equation.
I didn't use a degree kit. My dad helped because I am not the most knowledgeable mechanic. I don't understand how it could be wrong if the dots line up. Please explain.
You still didn't say what timing chain set you used. Find that out and that will get you half way there. A stock replacement set is best for ease of installation and best chance of hitting it close if you can't degree it. The worst choice set to use if not degreeing it would be the billet 9 keyway set. Too many chances to miss the mark. When a cam is ground it can actually be ground off by some degree from what it is speced at. When you put the timing set dot/dot that should be good or at least get you close but you never know if the cam is actually correct. Usually a few degrees plus or minus won't hurt much but if you want it optimum you want it degreed and especially if something crops up like your problem. You have read the ignition timing thread right? Overall I'd say cam is retarded, ignition timing is retarded, or the secondaries are not opening. How does the car feel from a dead stop when you punch it? Like I said the 114 should help the top end a bit with only a small loss at the bottom end worst case. Dual exhaust should have no downsides. Carb???
It was a stock replacement and I have read the timing thread. The car was very sluggish, wouldn't even spin the tires. It didn't sputter or anything just no torque. Where can I fitting the fitting for the carb?
Sounds alot like what happened to mine, I put headers, dual exhaust, ta intake, electronic ignition, new holley carb, electric cooling fan, sounded like it was making way more power, but it just kept getting wayyy slower.. Well I never fully diagnosed it but I know for sure that my trans was shot and the converter could have been a dud too, a dead trans can sap alot of power. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBVrgdrDGHI Thats mine after all the upgrades, I have a 12 bolt with 3.30 gear, so you would expect mine to have been quite peppy and spin the tires with ease off the line but thats a full throttle launch to 60 mph. Check the color of your trans fluid.
Most parts stores carry a replacement self-tapping fuel line fitting as a fix to the stripped threads in your carb. Depending on how bad it is, you may only need one of these rather than a new carburetor.
Start with a good tune up then we can go from there: Do you have good spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Have you verified the ignition voltage? What is your initial and total timing? At what rpm do you have full mechanical advance? Have you set your idle mixture screws to get the highest vacuum readings from the engine when in gear and wheels blocked?
Spotted this on E-Bay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEV...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56380b7bd7 You can check Advance Auto, Auto Zone, or NAPA for the same thing. Follow instructions. All my previous answers figured on your car ran reasonable before you changed the parts and you weren't trying to make up for a crappy running car by throwing HP parts at it.
I appreciate it. I ordered the part and I will be putting my carb back on. The car ran pretty good before I took it apart. I just wanted to upgrade and replace some worn parts. It did smoke some but had the valves done. The block looked pretty good so I stopped there. I have the original block and someday I will be having it honed and put new pistons and bearings in it. I will let you guys know once I put my carb back on. When I went to my dads today it ran a little better. The carb I put on has been sitting for some years and probably needs rebuilt.
If you just have the choke wired open somehow it may not allow the secondary throttle blades to open..
O.K. I royally screwed my old carb. Not worth getting into. Lets just say anger management. :spank: I have the same carb on there. I did find one wire crossed that helped a little. It sounds like I have a vacuum leak and the idle is rough adjusted the screws on the carb and will not get better. Nothing around the carb all of those lines are good. Call me crazy but it sounds like it is coming from the back of the engine. I have set the timing all over the place. I tried to set it at 6* BTDC and it will not run at all. It looks to be around 24* or something. I am thinking I should take the valve covers and intake off and check the torque on the heads. And put the intake back on and torque it down again.
Before you tear it down do a compression test, then try oil in any low cylinders and if they improve then you are in for a full rebuild or at least re-ring. If your numbers are good then just run it. If most of the the numbers are bad then do a leakdown test to pin the problem to piston rings not sealing or valve-train issues like bad seats on valves in cylinder heads. If you ever pull of your intake then do all the gaskets including front and rear main seals, oil pan, heads ect. If not it will leak and I will say...... I told you so.....
The car ran fine before I put the items listed above. Idled great had good power...I was just seeking more.
If you timing mark bounces then replace the timing set and dist. gear. You are overtiming your engine, at "24 degrees or something" you will have "about" 50 degrees timming and kill the engine. MAX 38 degrees timing on these engines and that is with NO vacuum advance. Get the timing is as early as 2200 for full mechanical advance, most 350s like 32-36 degrees total timing plus about 9 degrees from a vacuum advance.
Have you pulled the plugs and checked cranking compression. I would start at ground zero and make sure the mechanical changes are working. You said you found a couple wires crossed. Hum.....maybe go back through everything, isnt a bad idea. Also if the manifold isnt installed right and you have leaks your done. Do any of your friends have a carb that is proven. Slow down and double check things as you go along and it will be a fun car.
I don't have another carb available. I will do a compression test. It is just it's got a slight miss and lost torque. It seems like it should be something simple.
Sounds like an intake leak to me. Did you use the rubber gaskets supplied for the front and rear of the intake manifold? If so you may have knocked one loose when installing the intake. Spray some carb cleaner around the intake while it's running,especially in the back.If it sucks it in and almost stalls,there you have it. You can also cup your hands over the carb while it's idling and if it doesn't stall you have a leak,but use the spray anyway. Do the simple and cheap things first. Good Luck.
