I'm using 7MM suppressor wires from Car Quest. I keep thinking that I'm not getting a hot enough spark, and after reading this, I wonder if changing wires wouldn't be a good idea. http://www.classicpreservation.com/sparkplugwiresets.html Has anyone dealt with this guy? Is what he saying true or "bovine scatology?" These guys have'em too for $80... :shock: http://www.lectriclimited.com/mainpage.htm I'm using stock points and coil. Dwell at 28, timing at 12 BTC. And, I'm thinking of going to breaker-less ignition. Thanks in advance.
Hey, Sha, I am probably going to get some crap started here but here goes. MY opinion is that a lot of good money is wasted on exotic wires. There is a lot of over kill. A good set of wires from the zone or advance or Orileys is probably just as good as any on a street driven car. especially with a point fired system. When the later engines with the electronic ign. systems came on they did need a better set of wires to contain the higher voltages. i went to the later ign and kept my old packard wires and they did just fine. The only problem that i had was that they would turn the neighbors tv inside out when I fired the engine. he he. just run a good, set of wires, that you change every 3 years or so. The under hood heat is what kills them. Back when cars ran low temp thermostats the wires and belts and hoses lasted a lot longer. Jmho.
Thanks, Doc. I'm going to guess that your Packard wires have less resistance than my 7MM wires do. That would tend to give a weaker spark, wouldn't it?
I use AC Delco 7MM wires availabe everywhere, usually 29.99 or something. Custom fit, not a kit. Black.
The brand of plug wire has nothing to do with engine output. The fact that some wires have less resistance per foot has nothing to do with your engine producing more power.
All of the above are dead on. And to answer your question, the old packard solid core wires were low resistance alright but the resistance is determined more by the gaps inside the dist cap and at the spark plugs. Resistance wires were introduced by the factorys to get rid of ignition noise in the am radios of the day. remember your high school science class, electricity follows the path of least resistance. real wires actually put more juice to the plugs than radio resistance wires do. But it is moot unless the wires have defective insulation on them and are leaking. That is what silicone /neoprene insulation is all about. There is a lot of hype around custom ign. systems. It is easy and cheap to make a Buick engine go all the way up the rpm scale and keep firing because they are torque engines and dont turn ultra high rpms. I used to run a old capacitive discharge system that triggered from a set of delco light duty points. I could turn 6500 rpm and not get ign break down. The cam would run out of steam before the ign. did. the trick was to take the points and bend the spring around backwards to give it more tension. then I used a toggle switch to run straight 12 volts to the coil. be sure to lube the cam/rubbing block. The cap-dis kept the points and plugs from burning up. A low buck set up to be sure, but it worked good.
I highly recommend the Taylor Cut to fit wires. Good wire for good price. Nothing beats custom wires for a clean look!
I agree. The Taylors are the way to go (and I did). I don't buy into all the "more HP" claims, but there is a lot to be said for "good quality" wires. 1. Keep them away from your exhaust manifold/headers. Heat is your enemy! 2. Clip them, separtated and tie them securely so they dont "wiggle" too much. 3 The Nailhead valve cover bolts throught the center, unlike most other valve covers, so how a person attaches the clips is an important decision. 4. I like the HEI style connectors. Maybe it's just my perception, but I think they snap on more securely. 5. The diameter of the wire usually has nothing to do with the conductance or resistance. Again that is another marketing gimmick that usually means thicker insulation. Most wire clips wont take a 9mm wire or thicker anyway. Just my two cents worth...
You can buy the original Delco wires which are turn key and cost effective. Save your money for something that makes a difference.
Jim and I have the same idea, he he.... Last week I managed to find some of the old ''rajah'' connectors.......the plug ends. I would like to find the dist cap ends....they make for some really durable wires. Just dont reach and grab one with the engine running.
Same here, and AC plugs. And I am using them with Dave's Small Body HEI conversion on my '63 Riv. That system puts out some serious energy. No matter how cold the engine or how lean the mixture, it fires.
