I have a pertonix Distributor Conversion kit on my 455 buick and i'm happy with it. No idea what it is as it came on the car. I would like to switch my stock 1972 350 over to pertonix and i'm wondering what everyone is using. The points are old and it requires a tune up so I figure now is the time. I found: 1181 Pertonix Ignitor 91181 Pertonix Ignitor 2 and a 1181LS Pertonix Ignitor What would you guys recommend.
I would like to know also. I have the 1181ls here that i was thinking of using for my 350. Apparently that one is better than the 1181 seemes to be way faster and easier to install. Dont know anything about the later versions. I would like to know some pros and cons choosing these over points too. Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
I've had nothing but problems with Petronix. Have run them since 2002 and have been through all 3 versions of them and eventually either the unit itself would burn up, or if it lasted longer like the Petronix III did, the plate with the magnets in it eventually starts to come apart and they fly out causing your car to run on however many magnets (cylinders) are left; each time it left me stranded and having to get a tow or sit until I came back with another Puketronix. I also tried the American Autowire conversion. That one seemed like the best of all of them, but I didn't even get 1 day of use out of it. I hooked it up following their directions to a T, the car ran great for about 5 minutes; then it just died, and wouldn't start. I could see sparks between the unit and the metal ring that rotates between the pickup whenever I rotated the distributor around...figured out I put one of the bolts and nuts in the wrong spot and a washer was too close and shorting out. After rearranging the nuts/bolts properly, the car started up again, drove it to the gas station and it died leaving the gas station and wouldn't start...still witnessed the same sparking/shorting out happening. My garaged beauty queen GS455 summarily got dumped on by a downpour due to it stranding me there, so it took everything in me to NOT rip it out and throw it as far as I could. Luckily got a refund on it (thanks Summit!). Went back to points until either going for a MSD distributor or HEI but I will never again run one of those things. Now between 1995-2001 my brother's 68 Riviera had a Mallory unilite conversion with a photo optic sensor and never had any problems with it, and it was already in the car when he got it, so no telling how old it was. I've been tempted to go with one of those, but I understand that MSD owns them now, not sure if they're still as good or not.
I have used the Crane XRi kit on three cars now and they have all worked perfectly for the last four years.
Ditto to this and above. Pertronix is a tool of the devil, nothing but headache and lost performance. Go with the Crane XRI and matching coil, you'll thank yourself.:Smarty: This is what I have in my 350, it fires instantly and idles cold with no choke.
I have installed literally dozens of each type, and run every one on the dyno, with follow up knowledge of how it ran, and lasted in the car. Pertronix.. the 1181 and 1181LS have been used, both very particular about setup, but once you get them right, the failure rate of these two units is no higher than anything else. The LS version has rpm control. I have had one failure, an early 1181 unit years ago. Pertronix got a bad rep, because they were one of the first ones out there, and probably have more units on the market that everyone else combined. Also the Type 2 lobe sensing unit was really picky about setup, and the distributor, and lots and lots of folks could not make that unit work. Lectric limited conversion- this is the one wire unit out there, sold by many different outfits, but manufactured by Lectric limited in Chicago.. good unit, get the install right, and you will have good luck- only one that can be installed without removing distributor relatively easily.. no rpm control- no failures to date. Totally stock appearance with just one wire hooked to the coil negative. Crane XR-1.. For the most part good success, you have to have a distributor with good bushings, most failures/erratic operation of all lobe sensing units are due to shaft bushing wear, resulting in shaft wobble. Pertronix type 2 and this crane unit are most susceptible to this issue. I had one unit that would not fire on the dyno. Two things to keep in mind. I don't care what ignition you use, beware of horror stories from someone trying to sell you something else. Most often, that issue with that unit/install could be fixed, they just chuck it and put in their stuff. Overall, the failure rate of properly installed conversion units is low, regardless of the brand name or type. Some are more fussy on the install that others. The vast majority of failures of all types, are due to worn distributors, incorrect install, incompatible parts being used (coils) or defective wiring. This is the number one issue.. I have sent out brand new 8852 MSD distributors, that worked perfectly when wired right on the dyno, that even "professional shops" could not get to work properly. So regardless of what you chose, insure that the distributor your installing it in is not worn out, that your wiring it correctly, and that the coil your using is correct for the unit. And the odds are you will have success, now and in the future. ____________________________________ I think the most bulletproof combo out there is an 8517 MSD mag pickup distrib, or a converted mag pickup stocker, and the new Digital MSD boxes. You can also use the MSD 8552 all in one distrib, and trigger the box, and also have the ability to run it as a stand alone unit, should you have a box failure on the road. I can also tell you that a muiti-spark box is your best friend, when you chose a cam that is just a little too big, and your having idle issues. I had one car once that had a Hemi-killer cam in it, with a Stinger ignition, that was working fine.. just idled rougher than we would like it to .. because the Stinger conversion kit used a stock points distributor with a mag pickup installed, we were able to convert it over to an MSD 6AL setup, without touching the distributor.. a true test.. The results were amazing, much smoother idle, better starts, and it picked up almost 2" of idle vacuum, without touching anything. JW
I installed the Lectric Limited conversion kit on my 350 a few months ago. I have been very impressed! It was easy to install, even with distributor left in. I still haven't adjusted the timing since it runs beautifully! Better idle and start for sure. I highly recommend it. Good luck. Craig
Eventually I want to have Dave do a small body hei for me. But for now I might try this pertronix 1181ls and see how it goes. Or if its any better than the points. What would be the actual benefit over points besides not having to adjust dwell gap etc? To be honest ive only had my points go bad on me once in the 20+ yrs ive driven this car. And I had a spare set so 10 min later i was all good. Points have treated me great so far. Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
I have the Pertronix Ignitor III on my Buick and it has been 100% reliable for the last 5 years. The early system I units were very bad: magnet wheel scraping the pickup & the magnets falling out, etc. If you get the system III with coil & remove the resistor wire, you should have no problems.
I installed my conversion from Dave about 3 months ago and so far I have been happy as a clam. It not only looks awesome (I got the "billet" look-alike option) but it took care of the terrible missfire and stuttering my 350 was experiencing when I first got the car with points. It was bascially not drivable before. The only downsides to Dave's coversions is that: -It's pricey -It takes about 3 months for him to make you one (even though his website may say 2 weeks) -Dave is a bit of a character, I like him but just keep that in mind if you call him -You'll have to purchase a separate core if you want to drive your car while he is doing the conversion, I bought one on eBay for $30 or so. -You'll need to run full 12v to the distributor. I had to do this anyway as my resistor wire wasn't in the best shape. There are a couple of threads on how to do this if you look around, but I recommend replacing the wire all the way to the bulkhead connector on the firewall; it's nice to know you have new wiring feeding your new distributor. It wasn't hard at all, just took some finagling to undo the bolt that holds the cover on the firewall. I even bought a new Packard 56 connector to go with the new wriring Besides all that it is a great product! You basically just need to be patient when you decide go this route. Dave provides excellent and thorough intructions with his conversions as well. Best of luck with whatever you do!
I installed a Pertronix 1181 in my distributor when we swapped in the 350 in my '64 Skylark. At first it ran terrible. After talking to Dave Hemker we found out that the OEM resistor wire doesn't give full 12v. After setting up a temporary 12v wire, it started and ran great. Only thing is, we forgot to disconnect it when we shut the engine down, and it burned the Pertronix module up. That was a $90 mistake ou: In the meantime, I installed the points and it still runs great. I ordered another 1181 and plan to install it with a new 12v power wire that is switched with the ignition like Dave said it needs. FWIW, the 1181ls seems easier to install since it has less parts. But I was told the older 1181 is a better unit if it is set up right. I don't know personally. Can somebody post the threads mentioned above showing proper method for this wiring project? Thanks
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...nd-HEI-System-function-tests-and-modification Read the last paragraph.
Be careful here... with the 1181 it is critical to either have a resistance wire, or the 1.5 ohm primary resistance coil that they sell to work with the system. If you remove the resistor wire, and are using the standard .5 to .9 ohm coil, over time increased current flow will result in shorter module life. I just installed an 1181 setup in a 460 HP stock appearing engine.. and I noticed working with the car later on, that the idle quality was poor, compared to what it should have been. The issue was I was on the upper edge of the air gap specs between magnet wheel and the module. I corrected this with a shim on the distrib gear, and it now works perfectly, with the standard .8 ohm primary resistance coil, and the reproduction wiring harness, with the resistor wire in place. JW
Have have the original series on my car now for over 10 yrs and no problem. DId have some issues with the series 2 so I went back to the original.
Thanks guys for the replies. Looks like these Pertronix conversions are far from "plug and play". I'm tempted to just run points, after all the car has made it 52 years with points. I didn't realize the ohms was so critical. I am using a MSD Blaster 2 coil that specs a .700 ohm resistance. will this work right with the 1181 Pertronix kit? Or would I be better off to exchange the 1181 for 1181ls? My car isn't for racing, just a street cruiser. Is the conversion worth the work and expense? I do want it to run good. Thanks,
Im right with you on this. Seems like more to it than plug and play. I also have points but with stock coil. I was assuming it was just a direct swap as well. No biggie. Ive had good luck with my points. Might as well keep it Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
I use the Petronix III and matching coil on 3 of my cars and they are 100% for the last 4 years, money well spent, and I love the Re-limiter feature.
another vote for the Crane XR-I. very easy to install and no problems. just two wires to the coil and a couple screws. made a big difference.
Guys, If you want a simple, easy points replacement deal, without having to even take the distrib out, and using all the factory stuff, then the Lectric limited deal is for you. Only drawback is no rev limiter, which is no big deal for a cruiser. JW
