Just was reading a revived thread about zinc in oil. I am curious about what you guys think about straight 30 weight. I didn't want to hijack that thread so I hope to get some opinions here. My 63 401 has about 130,000 on it now. Should I really care about what oil I use. Last year the car show Amsoil guy sold me on his high zinc hot rod oil 20-50. So Now it's time for my annual oil change and I probably will just use straight 30 weight. I have been using 30 weight because I purchased a boat load cheap some years ago and figure that old 401 will run on anything. I also figure "why do I need multi vis winter weight oil when it just sits in a heated garage all winter?" So my questions are, #1, What do you think about straight 30 weight in my situation? #2, What do you think about Amsoil? Particularly the high zinc hot rod oil? Officiallly called Z-Rod. 20-50 because Mr. Amsoil said that high vis oil would make my engine run cooler. Thanks...
My 1959 manual recommends 20 HD for temperatures above 32F. It also says 10W20 or 10W30 is OK for the same conditions.
There's no need to run something as thick as 20W50. You'd be fine running straight 30 weight, as long as it has the proper amount of zinc. You can get bottles of ZDDP additive and add it to whatever oil you'd like.
If you bought the 30W "years ago"; it should have ZDDP in it. I assume that it is HD. If not, do not put it in your engine. If so, it's probably fine as is.
AMSOIL is awesome stuff. It's pretty much the bees knees when it comes oils. A lot of what AMSOIL sells is extended life products because of the full synthetic properties. However, the Z-Rod tells you 5,000 miles or one year assuming your are running a high performance(modded) engine. In a heavily modified engine it says 3,000 miles or one year. But they clearly state to use your best judgement and they do not recommend a service interval for the Z-Rod not knowing the conditions it will be put through. I run AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 in my 2012 Silverado. I'm at about 12,000 miles on this oil change and plan to go up around 20,000. I swapped the AMSOIL filter at 10,000 miles. Checked it this weekend and it's still looking good. I'll check it again around 15,000 miles and see how the oil is holding up.
For flat tappet cams ZDDP is extremely important, even after camshaft break-in. It provides a phosphate coating that allows metal parts to live in high crush environments like that of a flat tappet cam and the lifter. Gov regs have dictated decreasing levels of ZDDP in engine oil since 1999 to help extend the life of catalytic converters. API website says "SM" is: "For all automotive engines currently in use. Introduced in 2004, SM oils are designed to provideimproved oxidation resistance, improved deposit protection, betterwear protection, and better low-temperature performance overthe life ofthe oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving." The ZDDP content is not listed for "SM" on the API site and may vary between brands. I have used AMSOIL 10W-30 Z-Rod oil and Joe Gibbs HR-1 10W-30 in my 1968 Buick special with a '69 BBB 400 for about a year and both work well. I drive my car every day so I change my oil about every 3-4000 miles. Can't afford to wipe my cam. Hope this helps.
I've been using 30w in mine for 40+ years. I add STP with ZDDP (blue bottle) my Owner's Manual says 30w. So, I use 30w.
API SN is a relatively recent classification. It is detergent, and should be fine. Add ZDDP if it makes you feel better. Each successive API classification contains less ZDDP then the oil it replaced. I believe that the newest classification is SM. Non-Detergent oils almost always say ND or Non-Detergent in big letters on the container. I would not use a non-detergent oil in any engine that is equipped with an oil filter. Actually, the only thing I use ND oil for is my squirt oil can and for mixing with gas for my chainsaw.
This oil stuff is very interesting. From what I have read I would add a bottle of zddp additive no matter what oil I was useing. John, I remember a thread a few years ago I think was in the bbb section where they were saying not to run detergent oil in the older buicks , something about foaming up. Who knows whats right. I do think you need added zddp though. Good thread:gp:
For what it's worth, I run Valvoline 10W-30 Not Street Legal Racing Oil. It's a low detergent synthetic with ultra high zinc & phosphorus. Due to the low detergent package, service intervals are greatly reduced however.
OK, so I went down to my local Oreilly's auto parts today looking for some zddp. All I could find is a bunch of products that contain some amount of zddp along with their own proprietary blends of magic gue. I thought I almost had the one I wanted untill I read the label, "contains no zinc" None gave me any inclination of how much zddp was in the product or to what ppm it would increase the zddp. Is there a product that is straight zddp? Or do I buy the magic gue? What product do you guys use? A couple products directed to pour in the gue, run the car for a specified amount of time and then drain and refill. Is this what I have to do?
There are many discussions on here about zinc additives. You may want to try using the search bar. Here is a very good thread started by Jim Weise... http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?222499-New-Oil-tech&highlight=zddp I personally just order ZDDP Plus online and add it to regular oil.
yeah allot of their oils are recoomended for 21k while the o.e is set to 12k or 1 year interval btw, their signature series has calcium in their detergent.. not good for our motors even if you dump zddp in it.. if your planning to run amsoil in our buick engines..choose the zrod..more so if its a fresh build due to rust inhibators amsoil premium also has zinc..but not the best viscosity choices..10w40 or 20w50.. Amsoil dominator series should have zinc/ph but may also contain calcium, which isnt good for our valvetrain ---------- Post added at 02:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:39 AM ---------- wont do any good if your regular oil contains Calcium..sae API SM/SL/CF/sj/ SM oils have lots of it. just get amsoil zrod or the Joe Gibbs HR series oil listed in that linked you posted
I forgot to mention that we are running the AMSOIL ZROD in the '66 and I believe in the '67 as well. I don't remember what viscocity though off hand. Thanks Mike, that's good info to know about the calcium detergent.
With every change of oil, I include a pint of STP zzdp magic gue in the bottle blue. STP comes in pint bottles I include the STP magic gue with the oil during an oil change. I then run that mix until the next oil change. A few miles before an oil change, I add a 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil (another magic gue) to the crank case. (To remove gum and deposits)
Well, It's starting to look like my oil changes are going to start costing me almost as much as a trip to the dentist. I also see that Summit has a ton of zddp products. I did look at the STP magic gue and the Mystery Oil too. The mystery for me "is it all worth the money?":eek2: We have a Summit store here in town. They have a cruise in and show-n-shine evry friday night starting next week. I'll probably wait and see what they have in stock. If nothing else jumps out at me I'll probably go for the STP too. Thanks
Z-rod comes in 10w30(good for our engines) and 20w50 guys like i said, just buy Amsoil zrod or Joegibbs HR series oils...no guess work as you know hyou got gthe right oil...dont have to spend more $$$ on zddp additive nor do you have to worry if the oil you used has too much calcium to counteract the effectivness of the zddp or completely cancel the zddp out! so just use zrod or joe gibbs hr oil for a sure shot thats cheaper then the wrong oil plus zddp additive
Dang, what a mess.... I just use Texaco haviland oil and add a bottle of ZDDP to it... that works.....:Brow: The best brand I have found is; ZDDPLUS made by ZPLUS LLC 4 oz. bottles,,, black ,red, and white label,,, white plastic bottle....
Its easy to over complicate the oil issue with so many options out there. This is all you need to use with no additive. It comes in many viscosities including straight 30. In your car I'd use a straight 30 or 10-40. See if you can find a distributor in your area http://penngrade1.com/