My Riv does it out of both exhaust pipes every few seconds. It'll go puff puff then back to normal. And I still get a strong gas odor as well. Any ideas?
Yep,,,, If you remove the air cleaner and look down into the carb throat while the engine is idleing, most likely you will see drops of liquid gas dropping into the engine... liquid fuel will not burn so you get the puffing you are talking about.... ck the float level in the carb..... or find the leak in the carb.... has gas milage fell off some?????
Yes it has. And this is with an MSD distributor and Mallory Hyfire 6 added on. In fact it got worse AFTER the MSD was put on.
It's coming from both exhaust pipes which aren't interconnected. I'm thinking it's a fuel issue like Doc says. At least I hope so.
Oh I know man. But I don't like to hear things like burnt valves or head gaskets. It makes my day bad. :ball: Keep it to yourself next time. :grin: Just kidding of course. As always, I appreciate any advice given to me.
A valve that is stuck open will be a regular, steady, miss, plus the rocker arm will be noisy from the increased clearance.... a valve that is stuck closed will bend the pushrod.... a burned valve will be a regular miss that slowly gets worse as the valve is burned more and more.... simple ck for all this is to run a compression test....then find where the raw gas is coming from...:laugh: :laugh: I had a friend that has a big truck with a 600 holley on it .... we were out in it 2 days ago and it started doing about the same thing , only really bad... I removed the air cleaner and sure enough the secondary boosters and the vent tube in the back was leaking gas into the carb.... he did not have any tools with him and I had to remove the inlet needle assembly with a car key and a nail..:laugh: ..I found a piece of trash inside the needle assmbly.... fished it out with a grass stem and reinstalled it, set the float level and we were on our way.... that is why I like holley carbs...:Brow: :Brow:
Make sure your power pistons are still moving freely. Check for sediment in the fuel bowls, as they affect float levels. Take the carb off and make sure it isn't rusted or corroded through the throttle body. Some people tend to leave the spacer plate off when overhauling the carb and the the base plate of the carb corrodes through, causing all sorts of trouble. Other than that, AFBs were pretty simple and dependable.
Ok I adjusted the float level to 7/32" which they were off BTW. Everything looked fine and clean inside the body so I went ahead and put it all back together. Now when I put it back on the car, it didn't solve the problem. So I played around with the idle mixture screws and at one full turn out, the car idles perfectly and the puffing sound disappears as does the gas smell. At 1.5 turns out, the idle quality doesn't change but the puffing noise and gas smell return. One other thing I want to mention is that the pump plunger is supposed to be at 7/16" height above the top cover according to factory specs. I can get it to about 11/16" using the third hole for the rod. Now the rebuild kit I have has a piston in it that's shorter than the one in the carb (I measured them side by side). I'm not familiar at all as to what the piston does so should I go ahead and change it out and get it as close to factory specs as possible? Thanks.
It wouldnt hurt to change the plunger.... the lenght of the plunger is not as important as the amount of the movement from a stopped position...sounds like you are talking about a carter afb here.... between the actuation lever and the accellerator pump plunger there is a s shapped piece of linkage... some times you have to adjust that to get the correct specs....also with a new plunger,,,you have to soak it in trans fluid or light oil to lube it ....
