Vertigate V-Gate Shifter BUICK thread

Discussion in 'U-shift em' started by moleary, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    Thought I would start a thread on V Gate shifter on a Muncie I am working on...

    Chime in. Any useful information and comments are welcome...

    I could not resist the urge to retro a shifter into the Street Sleeper. I found a restored Vertigate and linkage for the M-22. I need to study this animal now to fabricate a reverse back drive shifter lever and linkage to get it to drive the column. I also plan to fab a custom floor hump and/or a console whichever makes the most sense after I see what is required to do to the floor...
    [​IMG]

    It is a Mr Gasket version. I understand they made the stronger one of the two being a bit stockier. Another example is the shift handle top is 1/2" x 13 thread whereas the HURST verison was 3/8"and tended to break off.

    Cheers!

    MarkO
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2016
  2. agetnt9

    agetnt9 Agetnt9 (Dan)

    I have had many V-gates and the MR. Gasket works the best but some what bigger and heaver than Hurst. I love them but, when you get arthritis its hard to shift down,, But up is as fast as you can:eek2:

    I don't care much for the hydro clutch. It works different when the temp changes. Good luck on the hump, as i made some and it took awhile to do......
     
  3. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental Block. Platinum Member.

    Hang on! Lemme go get a drool rag! That is lookin wicked! :3gears::3gears::3gears::3gears:
     
  4. crash

    crash Well-Known Member

    I hate to nit-pick, but is the reverse linkage arm suppose to look down???

    All the V-gates I've had the arm looks up...

    I'll look and see if I have a Hurst V-gate...

    Thanks... Crash
     
  5. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    So far, arthritis does not affflict me. I don't foresee the inconvenient characteristics the inline shifter comes with as being much of a hassle. I really only drive the car on weekends when I want to go out for a tear or to a show. The track is mostly a highway drive, about 30 miles so again, I am not concerned about it...http://www.bremertonraceway.biz

    I will begin fitment this weekend and have a few weeks before I will be driving the car while engine is finished up so hopefully I can wrap it up. I have a NOS boot, ring and shift pattern plate coming so I need that before getting too far along. Hope it arrives today or early next week. I am hoping I can utilize a prefab Goodmark floor hump as a starting point and save some effort.

    Stay tuned.
    MarkO
     
  6. crash

    crash Well-Known Member

    Mark, I went thru all my install sheets and found this one that shows the orientation of the shift arms on a V-gate, its a ST-10, but the same lay-out as a Muncie...

    I hope this helps... Crash
     

    Attached Files:

  7. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    I am on hold until I can find the correct reverse shift rod. The one I have is not the correct one. I have some reliable fellas on the look through their stashes.

    I am pretty certain back drive linkage is going to be custom but for the reuse of the 3/4 stud & bracket for the liinkage from the frame and to the column rod. I may be able to use a OEM reverse shaft lever from the stash...

    Stay tuned.
     
  8. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    Everything is working properly now after applying some rose bud and flattening out the bend in the reverse rod. I reused my reverse shift lever with the backdrive and backdrive liknkage. One extra washer added to the sapecer setup between the shifter and the mounting bracket to the trans provided the necessary clearance between 1-2 shift rod and reverse rod.

    Next will be fitment mock up for floor hole clearance and hump construction...


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental Block. Platinum Member.

    This is gittin good!!!:TU::3gears: Nice work!
     
  10. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Its gonna take a whopper of a hole thats for sure!
     
  11. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    On the 4speed, I would get an heavy duty Autogear tailshaft housing and make sure the drive shaft is a 3.5in aluminum or steel in .095 wall I had a .088 wall 3in shaft do LOTS of damage to our 4speed car, it started to loop at 6krpm which took out lots of stuff with it.
     
  12. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Balance may or may not have been an issue but it doesn't hurt to overkill the driveshaft I e broken 2 in my life both on the street and both over 100mph one at 125 and its not a fun experience
     
  13. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    Oh yes, no skimping on anything with the build. The drive line is new, 3.25" Heavy Wall - Balanced and I am planning on shifting at 5200 -5500 max... Carusso drive shaft loop...

    The hole in the floor will be what it is. I''ll save the skin and hump that gets cut out and my HURST Comp plus shifter and linkage for future needs to go back to an H pattern shifter if / when desired :beers2:
     
  14. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

  15. moleary

    moleary GOD Bless America

    I fabbed the floor hump tacked it up and dry fit. I am pleased with it. I need to finish the welds / grind, prep and paint. There is a filler plate that screws on top for the shiftr access opening.

    I won't make final install until after the engine & trans are installed to assure it is just right.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. STAGE III

    STAGE III Lost Experimental Block. Platinum Member.

    I hear ya MarkO! Lookin good buddy!:3gears:
     

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