Hey guys, just got back from The Power Tour, which was amazing! I did over 1,200 miles and the car did great even while spinning at close to 3k the entire way. ST400 with 3.70 gears put me right around 3k rpm at 60mph. It wasn't ideal but I didn't have time to install a new trans before I left. I almost made it home and was within 8 miles of my destination when my engine started to pulse and then heard some terrible noises. Pulled over and had it towed to my uncle's house. I had hoped it was just a rocker that broke but it ended up being the valve spring. The valve doesn't move freely so I'm most likely going to have to take the head off and replace the valve and all the springs. The issue is I need to have it shipped home to Los Angeles so I can work on it but the car needs to be running to get it on a truck to transport it back to me. Any suggestions on my best options? So far the best plan I have was to have my uncle remove the pushrods for that cylinder and ship him the new springs to have him put one on as a temporary solution to get it running long enough to load and unload so I can get it home. I'd have to order a new spring(s) and the spring compressor. Who is the best person to buy that from? I've seen some recommendations against TA? Appreciate the help in advance. 1970 Buick 455, Stage 1 Iron Heads - Stroker Kit. Scott Brown Cam 242/256 @.050 - .560 lsa 112
Call a few transport companies. I thought some of them transported inoperable vehicles. I’m assuming they’d just use a winch to load it.
Rent a u-haul (or Penske, Budget) truck/trailer (or tow dolly) one-way & tow it home. Enterprise also rents trucks (can only tow w/ ¾ ton) & u-haul will rent only the trailer/ dolly. Key is (hopefully) finding the company that needs equipment whete you're going. If so, they'll give you a good rate.
First off, if the valve doesn't move freely, the stem is most likely bent and the valve is not fully closed, so running it, even with the pushrod removed is out of the question. Second, shouldn't a cam with .540 lift require dual valve springs? Those look like stock single springs with a damper.
If that valve wont move ,the stem has been bent from contact with the piston, if this has not occurred already, running the engine will snap off the valve and hammer it up through the cylinder head casting flooding the cylinder with pressurised coolant , deforming the piston , bending the rod and pumping coolant across the manifold , to bend more rods and crown more pistons . Happened to me years ago in a small block chebby , shut it off soon as I heard it ,small expensive rattle , hope you are luckier than I was
With some single springs with a damper you need to take a close look at the way the damper fits around the base of the guide. Look at some others on the heads and see if the damper has been trying to climb onto the step that locates the spring. Once in a while we will have to machine the locating step to a smaller diameter or remove the damper. If the damper does get on top it will coil bind it and eventually break the damper. Which leads into spring failure. We have reproduced the TA1435 Stage 1 spring which fits nicely around the base. I'm thinking this is what may have went wrong. Seen this on 350 in the past but the big block is very similar in this area.
Got to ask: " Who is the best person to buy that from? I've seen some recommendations against TA?" what? where? Short distance - tow dolly. Pull the drive shaft - tape up the u-joint, wrap the slip joint.
I had it towed the 8 miles to my uncle's garage. The issue I was positing about is getting it on a transport home to Los Angeles from Nashville. My uncle was able to get the valve up and measured the height which matched the other valves. It's able to run on 7 cylinders so I can put it on a transport home over the next week. After I get it home I'm going to remove the head and inspect for damage to the valve, piston and head. I will get the correct springs and replace them all while I'm at it. TA has the Stage 1 Plus Springs (Single Spring w/ a dampener) "these springs have been specifically designed to work with camshafts up to .575”) http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=408 Or are there better springs on the market to go with?
You're incredibly lucky the block isn't windowed. I'd suggest putting a hose clamp around the valve stem at the base of the guide so it can't drop. If it falla down while its running you'll pretty much walk away with a few rods and the valve covers..
Dual springs would be better but you will need to have the guides machined to add clearance for the inner spring plus the correct valve seal. I believe TA recommends getting rid of the inner damper on the S1+ springs if the guides haven't been machined.
Update: Put a hose clamp around the valve to get it on the truck to ship home. Got it home took the head off. The piston doesn't look too bad. Need to decide on springs and get a new valve.
Man, buy a lotto ticket. You are lucky! The only other concern is there is a chance the ring landing got squished/deformed. If the ring pinched you'll have a misfire. It's worth checking out
