TA-210S-HL It's solid-flat with TA face oiling lifters. The cam card reads .020" cold. A few of the valves sound like they have too much lash. I followed the procedure from CompCams web site. Thoughts?
I use the Waddell Wilson method. Engine hot, remove spark plugs, start with either side and watch valves open and close. Exhaust valve just starts to open, Adjust intake, then rotate through and Intake valve open, when starts to close Adjust Exhaust. Hope that helps, it always works for me. My Skylark and Camaro both have solid lifters.
I guess there has been several methods over the years. There was nothing like adjusting small block Chevys with the engine hot and running and spraying oil. I had some clips that went over the rocker arm oil hole that made it a little saner. But Hot or Cold I like to use the "companion cylinder" method of adjusting the valves. Take the firing order (ex 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2) and divide it in the middle and put the last half under the first 4 cylinder #s. ( 1 & 6 ) are companion cylinders and so on. If you rock the valves (Ex closing and In starting to open) then the 2 cylinders will be at TDC, one on compression and the other just coming up on Ex and getting ready to go down on Intake. At this point the valves on the cylinder on compression can be adjusted. Just turn 90 degrees and go through the firing order. This procedure is also good for putting in a distributor, no guess work, if the valves or rocking on # 6 then you are good to go for putting in the distributor for # 1 and wire it up. Something I learned as a kid 45 years ago that has served me well. Jim N.
I have been working on engines for many years, the last ten in Nascar shops and I can tell you this is the best way to do it. It is the quickest, most accurate way for one person to adjust valves and all you have to do is bump the starter and watch the rocker arms.
It is not necessary to remove the spark plugs, simply pull the coil wire out or preferably use a remote starter switch.
The reason I remove the spark plugs is that it's not as hard on the starter to bump around. Also a good time to check spark plugs for tune up conditions.
<TABLE border=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I ran a solid lifter cam in my Pontiac back in the early 70's... Thinking back on that a Pontiac with a solid lifter cam was like having a clock that went to 13...LOL.. But anyway here is how we used to set them... When the intake valve starts to close set the exhaust.. When the exhaust valve starts to open set the intake... Would set them cold and then again hot..<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- / message -->
I used all the above methods only to have at least one lose. What I did years ago was take the distrubitor cap adapter off my Mallory and mark the firing order on it. Now I just follow the firing order and set them (each cylinder) at TDC. Like said before. remove the spark plugs first. Turn the engine over by hand using the crank bolt. Takes me 45 minuets, but it is done correctly the first time. I think TA Performance has it also on their site. It does not matter, but I do have solid lifters.
Thanks, Make me think i can make something:Brow: from an old cap. maybe cut the top off and, well you get the idea. :TU:
If you get started on #1 TDC firing and turn 90 degrees and follow the firing order you can't go wrong. I used to do small block Chevys with the 098 and 30/30 cams in the dark. No deal. You kids just need to practice. Jim N.
Just a quick note. I found out from some Sprint car guys that you watch an exhaust valve that is open, and turn the motor over until it starts to close and the intake valve on that cylinder starts to open, turn until the rockers are equal in height (approx), and you are near TDC on that cylinder. So the cylinder opposite that one in the firing order is at TDC on the compression stroke, so you adjust it. Saves doing something else to see when those cylinders are at TDC, and once you do the first, you just follow the firing order around. For example- rockers on #6 are equal, adjust #1, then watch #5 and adjust #8, etc. Hope that sounds easier.
With newer inverted flank cam designs, you do not want to adjust valves at TDC, that is why you should use the "set intake when exhaust starts to open" and "set exhaust when intake starts to close method". I know that most Buick camshafts can be adjusted at TDC because of their short durations but when you get into radical roller designs it is necessary to adjust them with this method and it is still the easiest, least complicated and most accurate way of adjusting valves. Do not make the process more difficult and time consuming that it has to be. Doug Jones
Thanks Doug, I forgot to say unless you have a huge roller cam, or very big flat tappet cam, they showed me that it made little difference. I am using a 260@.050" duration solid roller cam and it made about .002" difference max. Any bigger, and I don't know much bigger, use the other method. If you do it the other way it can be hard to remember which one you did, or if your having a bad day it might get mixed up as to which one you were watching, was it opening or closing, etc. (some of us-like me- have bad short term memories from head injuries, and some- just bad memories). If it's a big race cam, people have to do it like Doug says (and it is the most accurate way for any cam). The base of some cams has a slight ramp that can set you off a few thou too. But if your in a hurry, you can get mixed up, and if you do- you badly mix up. Just don't hurry, either way, mark the ones you adjusted, or write them down.
I agree with both of the last post, but to make it the simplest and keep from getting off in left field, I still think the companion cylinder TDC method is best on most engines except all out race engines and these fellows should know how to deal with valve adjustment. I had a team of students compete in the Hot Rodders of Tomorrow Engine Challenge in our state with the winner going to the finals at SEMA. They used a small Block Chevy and the hardest thing for most teams were getting the valves like the judges wanted them. Jim N.
I have always found that it's best to keep this proceedure simple. Start with number 1 exhaust valve (that happens to be the first one back in the LH head) and spin the motor until the intake is at max lift, and adjust.. then spin the motor again till the exhaust is at max lift, and adjust the intake, repeat that process, in order down the Driver side of the motor.. then go to the passenger side and go in order, from front to back. Don't worry about partner cylinders or firing order.. it simply doesn't require that much thinking, allows you to focus on the adjustment, and perform the proceedure quickly. That way, if someone walks up and starts gabbing with you in the pits, you don't have to remember where you were, or what you adjusted. Ron over that the dyno shop does it exactly this way, and he adjusts more valves in a year, than most of us do in a lifetime. It doesn't hurt the motor, starter, or anything else in the least bit, and it's a procedure that your only going to be doing a couple times a year anyway. Even on big roller cam motors, we adjusted them in the spring, and maybe checked them again near the end of the race season.. and I can't hardley recall ever having to loosen a lock nut up to adjust anything. To make this easier.. I have always installed a second starter pushbutton under the hood. Once you have one, you will love it, not having to crawl in the car all the time to turn the key, or hit the button, when your fooling with stuff under the hood, and want to start it up for adjustments, or inspection. My last racecar had a solenoid in the trunk, that provided the main power to everything, and with an extra under hood switch for that solenoid, I could start it up, and shut it off, from under the hood, without having to fool around in the car.. JW
When I think back to 40 years ago and a professional engine builder named Paul Althouse (Bill Jenkins would come by his shop during the Winternationals) prepared a superstock class 400 Buick engine for Dave Beniseks '68 GS, Paul instructed me on how to adjust the valves for the solid lifter cam. I was a definitely a nervous neophyte at the time and I wrote on a piece of tape I stuck to the firewall "S-E-W-I-S-C and S-I-W-E-S-O". It was not much fun with adjustable pushrods and a hot engine! Doug Jones
I my self have a push button installed on both front fenders that allow for easy engine bump from which ever side I am adjusting.
Hey Doug, I could ask Paul on Thursday @ Irwindale, but I need to know before then. What does the S-E-W-I-S-C mean? Cheers, Tim
