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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Turn signal/column cup questions, something isn't right.

Discussion in 'Interior City' started by kcombs, Jul 27, 2023.

  1. kcombs

    kcombs Well-Known Member

    I am reassembling my steering box and column and most everything is going well, except the cup that holds the turn signal switch isn't going on right. The cup feels like it is rocking on the part below it that has the shift lever in it. When I try to install the steering wheel it jams into the cup, so something is wrong. I have tried rotating the cup many times, but it does not seem to go into the column correctly. Could it be the switch was changed and I have the wrong type? I don't remember changing the switch, but the car I took the column from has been sitting along time and I might have changed the switch 15 years ago..... I don't think this is the problem, but I am getting frustrated with what should be relatively easy. The new quick ratio steering box is bolted up. The rag joint is installed and bolts tightened. The column seems to be where it should be and bolts are tightened. Shift linkage is connected. Something isn't right. Ideas?
     
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    '65?
    Tilt?
    No Tilt?

    Do you the shop manual?

    Been a while since I did mine, but I think there is a part of the column that is "punched in" to make a "catch" and the bowl has to be "clocked" to get past it, then "clocked" to be retained.

    I'll dig out the manual and try and see about that.

    If you don't have the manual, I can take pics host them, send a link and you can download them and enlarge them.
     
  3. kcombs

    kcombs Well-Known Member

    1965 Skylark non-tilt, column shift, automatic. The column is out of a 1965 Special, but is going into a Skylark. I have the 1965 Skylark manual.

    The cup and column seem like they should lock together as you mentioned, but I can’t figure out how to get them connected and locked. There are bumps on the column “tube” that the cup should slide into. Just can’t get cup to go around the bumps and lock.
     
  4. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    There is a way to adjust the mast (outside/painted part) of the column, if that is not correct, you may not be able to get the bowel on.

    I'll look at my manual and try and figure out where you might be stuck.

    If I need to, I can pull my wheel, bowl guts, and set up a call to work together so I can "see" what you're dealing with.

    Let me know your schedule and if this is a "must do now", or if you have some time.
     
  5. kcombs

    kcombs Well-Known Member

    I am retired so I am somewhat time flexible. My wife would love to go cruising with the top down this summer, that is my only schedule issue. I will check the dimensions in the manual tomorrow and see if I need to adjust something that I have overlooked. Odd thing is all I did was remove the column from one car and install it in another. Thank you for the help!
     
  6. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Also retired. :)

    Just want to make sure you are not trying to get it done first thing tomorrow for this weekend.

    I am trying to get a project finished.

    Be happy to assist anyway I can.
     
  7. kcombs

    kcombs Well-Known Member

    My favorite carpenter stopped by to discuss a project and he figured out part of the problem and I figured out why. Seems I removed this non-tilt column a few years ago and then forgot that I had changed the turn indicator switch with the column out of the car. That was the problem I removed the switch and everything went back together just fine. My horn, brake lights and turn indicators now work just fine. I should do a YouTube on the different types of steering wheels and columns and how to reinstall them, but I didn't do any videos so I can't. Now I have another problem, but I will post that in another section because the car stopped running.......
     

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