These seem like a great deal with free shipping.They don't have the popular name,but dimensions look the same.Anybody have feedback on them? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
The uppers look like they are NOT for the tall spindle conversion. Why would anyone go tubular without converting?
well they correct the angle so its not a need with them much like global wests set up. either way you dont want the tall coversion read up about the issues on spcs site. taller ball joints with oem spindles are what you want. but with certain ones its not needed since they correct the issue themselves. however spc are about the same price and are the best you can buy
Tom, Don't know about these you posted but another idea is to keep an eye out for the CPP ones on Ebay sales and such. Thats how I purchased mine. They are very nice products made in the USA. Fully assembled and bolted right in. Lighter then the stock stuff brand new. Those with a quick ratio steering box and my car handles very well.
Thanks for the tip Mike. Did you get the steering box from them also? What else did you do with the suspension on your car?
Tom, Up front I have the CPP tubular upper and lower controls arms. All new inner and outter tie rods and adjusters. Trans am 1.25" front sway bar with new poly bushings and end links. New pitman arm and centerlink. The steering box is a rebuilt GM converted quick ration that I got from Nick Serwo at GS garage. Rear I have UMI tubular lower control arms. Metco billet upper adjustable control arms. UMI 1.25" rear sway bar, UMI control arm braces. Car handles very well at all speeds and not harsh on bumps. I am getting a full new set of body bushing on th car now cause all the original are pretty shot and I am interested to see how that changes the feel of the car on the road as well. Sorry TMI Mike
Even the tall spindle conversion is considered old technology at this point. Geometry is key here. Another name to research is SC&C. Give them a call, and they can explain all the geometry stuff to you. They sell the SPC uppers. I would consider them to be the best because they go in depth to express how their arm improves geometry.
But that arm has its own set of problems if you've used them. I have them on my car now and with a tall ball joint and the ball joint spacers, I can still cause the arm to hit the frame. I had to cut a piece of the upper a-arm mount to get it to that point. So, these are not really bolt on and go, they require some custom effort and permanent modification. They suggest limiting straps to keep the arm from bottoming because there is no provision for a bump stop.
I was not aware of this. I just butted heads over a forum because i was going to go with global west. I was looking at purchasing these eventually though but was not aware of what youre indicating. Do you have pictures or specifics of what hits the frame where? Could this be a Buick only thing? I noticed our cars are not listed in application on the summit site. I would imagine it doesnt matter, since the only difference in the frames was the extra body mount on the firewall from Buick to "other"
I bought them through SC&C and he was very helpful but I wish someone had clued me in like what I now know. The first picture is of the driver side, unmodified. The second pic is of the passenger side, cut, ground and beat out of the way. A piece the size of my first joint of my index finger had to be cut out. It will still contact the frame but it doesn't hit the a-arm mount any more. It is definitely NOT a Buick only problem as this must affect every A-body car made at least in 70 if not 68-72. If you are interested in these, I'll make you a deal on the arms and the ball joint spacers. I'm about to order some more conventional units. I am keeping the tall ball joint though.
At the risk of hijacking a thread and needing to start my own in the parts for sale, if you are ready to acquire these arms, I'll PM you.
