It appears that while installing my engine, I have it sitting about 3/4 to 1" further forward than stock. Will that allow me to use the same drive shaft that my ST300 used but just change the yoke?
That is the end goal, but I put in adjustable upper rear control arms. So I need to get it up on the neighbors 4 post lift, set the ride height per shop manual and then tighten up all the suspension points and set/confirm the pinion angle. Once that is done, yeah, I will measure it. I'm just wondering if anybody had quick info on the difference between ST300 and TH400 installation on a 67.
In my '68 Skylark, the shifter linkage worked without any issues. Just needed to adjust the rod from the column to the torsion bar from frame to transmission (in the shop manual). Once that was done, I adjusted the needle mechanism by bending a bit to have the PRNDL2L1 align properly. I had a friend that owns a sign shop, make me an overlay since the ST300 only had PRNDL. Needed to set the crossmember to different holes, but my frame had a bunch of holes for various transmission/crossmember placement. You may need to replace cooling lines. I added an external cooler, so I used Russell Performance Twist-Lok lines and fittings Different drive shaft (but I went from the 350/ST300 to big block, ST400 and also replaced the rear end) so it was several inches. That was about it. (and I did UMI adjustable upper and lower arms for pinion angle)
I have a long nose water pump too. It's tight. I think I have less than an inch from radiator to fan tip
You will want to start with getting the engine in the correct location. Did you test fit the fan shroud?
I have changed from TH200, TH300, and TH350 to a TH400. I never moved the engine, and by using the shortest yoke and the short tail TH400, I never had to change a driveshaft. Shift linkage from a TH350 worked on a TH400, but not from a TH200. Bruce Roe
Upon further review and assembly, my fan hits the radiator. I tried the shorter fan clutch, however the long nose of the waterpump doesn't fit all the way into the clutch. The shorter fan clutch is still designed for the short nose WP. It looks like I need to switch to the short water pump and pulleys. Now the question is, do I buy a replacement style from TA or one of those high performance jobbies? 67 has the small radiator, so do I want the coolant flowing fast or slow? No thermostat per J.W. recommendation.
I can tell you from my experience on my 66' that you will want a high flow pump. Even with a large capacity aluminum radiator I still had overheating issues low speed and at idle with overheating. If you do not have the A/C pulleys the water pump turns so slow there is almost no water flow at idle. My high flow pump made a big difference. It seems the often available pulleys and the aftermarket pulleys underdrive the water pump and fan. Only the A/C style pulleys overdrive the fan and water pump. There are some posts on here that discuss pulleys and pumps including one on my experiences. There is more detail in my post on pulley ratios and RPM. I am using the Flowkooler pump and it is a nice piece and works well. I hear the TA one is even nicer. I would suggest to get one or the other. Greg
You might be able to use the shorter fan clutch if you can drill the pilot hole deeper. It's either that, or cut the exposed portion of the water pump shaft shorter. Some guys have resorted to that when they use the HD Fan clutch.
Why would he want to do that? I got a 67 with a big block in the fan fits behind the brass 4 core rad... with the short TA water pump.. the HD fan clutch. The fan blades fit perfectly in the fan shroud ......... ZERO parts were modified. Except a little itty bit of filling on the PW for the belt to clear. Boils down to it you are doing nothing but confusing the poor guy.... Your not helping him....
The first post in this thread says the engine is 3/4"-1" further forward than stock. Don't think that has been resolved, so that might be the bigger problem.
Then move the motor back to the factory position like mine and many others........ FWIW the GEN 1 Abody in very tight under the hood in comparison to the 68+ FWIW putting headers on a 2nd gen BB is a pice of cake..... 1st gen its litterly a act of congress... ((( NOT A POLITICAL STATEMENT ))))
I beat my head(ers) against the wall for quite a while before giving up on getting these shorties to fit. I went back to manifolds. I've ordered the HP TAperformance short nose water pump. That will give me all the clearance I need up front. If I need any more clearance, I can use this fancy short fan clutch I just happen to have sitting in the box. Those two items together would give me 1-1/2" set back which is too much. AS to cutting off that nose on the water pump, don't think I didn't consider it. My concern is getting grinding grit inside somehow or over heating the shaft while cutting it off and damaging seals or bearings or who knows. So next week I get a fancy pants water pump and I can go from there. AS to moving the engine back, F that. I'm hoping that my old driveshaft might just work with the engine forward a bit. I've done battle with those motor mounting plates too many times to F with it now.
What are "TA plates" ?? I'm trying to understand your configuration before offering my experience. Generically I will say a stock radiator plus coolant overflow can to keep the radiator 100% filled plus electric cheap radiator mounted electric fan (delete the water pump mounted fan) and normal water pump works for my 500hp combo.
