Torque converter Install

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by 12lives, Mar 28, 2024.

  1. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    I'm at the point of installing the TC into my 2004R. I've never done this. I've watched the videos and read the instructions so I think I'm ready.
    One thing I heard was to lubricate the pump seal. What do you folks use - or do you even do this? And apply it to the pump drive or apply it directly to the seal?
     
  2. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    If dry add a quart of fluid into converter and wipe some on snout and install.
     
    12lives and 1973gs like this.
  3. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Thanks - I was thinking AFT should work.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I use white lube because it stays put. I put some on the neck and seal edge. Yes, one quart into the converter. Line up the slots in the neck with the pump tabs, then rotate and push until the drive splines and stator splines engage, and the converter drops all the way down.
     
    12lives likes this.
  5. Matt69olds

    Matt69olds Well-Known Member

    When you install the trans, SLOWLY tighten the bellhousing bolts while stopping frequently to make sure the converter still turns. If it locks up before the bellhousing bolts are tight, the converter isn’t fully engaged in the pump.
     
    Max Damage, 12lives and DaWildcat like this.
  6. patwhac

    patwhac Well-Known Member

  7. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Thanks Patrick - It's funny how none of the depth measurements charts give the 2004R the time of day! I assume you use the 350 measurement.
     
    patwhac likes this.
  8. patwhac

    patwhac Well-Known Member

    It's true! I had the luxury of mating the transmission to engine on a stand before I put everything in the car. In my case I had to use washers between the convertor and flex plate to get the correct snout engagement. I verified this by measuring between the two and noting how much the converter moves from fully seated into the trans to bolted up to the flexplate.

    I also believe that the most important thing it to make sure that there is adequate clearance between the crank "pocket" and convertor "nub" so that when the engine is running they don't run into each other and take your your thrust bearing. Jim Weise has a post about it somewhere, I'll see if I can dig it up. IIRC I used sculpting putty to measure the clearance.
     

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