It is almost time to send the car to the paint shop, after I finish the engine. One of the things I need to take care of prior to painting is getting the top redone. I have the complete system out of the car. I was planning on sanding down the scissor mechanism and then painting it prior to having the top done. One of my questions is, should I put the top mechanism back in before I put the power top motor or should I do that after the top is completed? Everything is out of the car right now and I would like to get the sequence right. A step by step approach would be greatly appreciated. Better yet, if someone wants to come and do it for me, I wouldn't mind that either. :laugh: Thanks, in advance, for your responses. Len :3gears:
Len, I do this all the time! LOL, more than I want to remember. Your best, quickest and easiest solution is to dissassemble the top from the car. Remove the pump, lines, hoses from the car and store in a secure place. Strip the top....remove old material, padding, cables, rear window. Now, remove all old staples, nails, screws that went into the tack strips. More than likely your header still has the original compressed paper tack strip. I usually discard those and install the new urethane/hard rubber tack strips. I would inspect the the bow above the rear window w/tack strip and the drainage bow tack strip for same condition. If they are bad, remove the old tack strip. I use a pressure washer, 2000 psi, to blast the top mechanism and they come out spotless! Let air dry and then you can paint. I did sandblast one, one time and I had sand coming out for a few days. Too much mess to clean up. If you have the original tack strips(compressed paper) stay away from them with the pressure washer otherwise you will disintegrate them. I then put the top back on the body and take it to the top shop where my installer will install: padding, cables, top, glass rear window, rear well, tack strips as needed. He has told me to purchase all items for him to install except for top and rear glass window. He uses EZ-On tops and he said those are pre-marked and very simple (for him, 40 year top installer). His work is spotless....no wrinkles or creases anywhere! You can buy the padding, cables, rear well from any Chevelle supplier since they use the same top. After I get the top installed, car is going to the paint shop. Installer said when I get it all done and before I install the interior, to install the lift cylinders, lines and pump and do a couple of test runs for proper alignment. When I bring the car to him, they are just shells so he doesn't use the power set-up to align the top. He does it all by eye of a seasoned veteran. With a top motor working, it will slightly stretch the top further forward than you can move the top by hand. I have yet to have him adjust the top further since he always gets them right.
George; As always, your insight is greatly appreciated. So, do not put the cylinders, piping or motor in until after the top is complete, correct? The power washing idea seems like a great idea. The plastic gutter I have is in pretty good shape, there is one slot that is broken off. The tack strip (cast iron with the compressed material) needs to be replaced. The top place should have them, at least that is what I heard. Thanks again. Len :beer
Yes, remove/disconnect the top cylinders. This way top is operated by hand and you can "feel" the resistance in the top during the top operation. He also "sights" them in. Usually the side bows get bent because people have sat on the top when it is down which causes them to get bent of of original shape. I remove the pump, lines and cylinders from the car so the paint shop does not damage the lines and they don't have a battery to operate the top so they are of no use when I bring in the "shell" I usually go through the top, lines and cylinders at home so check for leaks, cracks, rust etc. Makes it easy to operate the top, bleed out air and have a nice, clean set-up ready to reinstall.
Len, I bead blasted mine and had no issues. Came out perfectly clean, some shop air thorugh a nozzle and pivot points are good, makes nice base for primer and paint. Also lets you have a good look for damage or cracks. Take it apart as far as you can. Replace worn bushings/parts. Don't lose the spring washers, tough to find. Also had all the fittings and parts plated again. Before you paint it, talk to the guy putting top together. Some tackstrip now gets glued in with urethane, some like it bare metal for that. I replaced all mine. Then install and check as George described and you are good to go. later Tim
Tim; Thanks for you input, again. I am going to put that off until I have the engine back in the car. Too many loose ends, got....to.....focus....... :3gears: Len
