Top Pump Bleeding?

Dies the manual cover it best, I thought I saw a bit somewhere but are unable to find it now? Ha Ha Ha

 

https://store.convertibleparts.com/f-m.html

I could sell you mine. I used it once and it worked great

 

With the top in the down position remove the rubber plug on the side & fill it with Dex 3 ATF. Put the plug back in & cycle it a few times. Do the same again. IF you fill it with the top up it will blow out the rubber plug. Now you'll have a mess to clean up because you over filled it.

 

I'd like to get the air out. It has been up and down a lot, but I still have air in the lines. Ill try without the plug.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Somethings leaking causing it to suck air & maybe not leaking fluid. Could be the gasket between the motor & reservoir.

 

Tom, Interesting. I saw a bit on bleeding these on the Forum here but I cant seems to find it. Can you buy a rebuild kit, do have have any sense of the difficulty rebuilding one of these yourself? I wouldn't think its too complicated.

Thanks for the info,
Mike

 

Honestly Mike I have never tried to rebuild one as they are available new for reasonable $$$.

Tom T.

 

Tom I used the top filling apparatus that is shown above. When I pump the fluid in, the pressure blows the hose out. Am ?I using this filler the right way?
Should the short hose be plugged or blocked? Also can the rubber plug be replaced with a metal one? The top will not cycle one way or the other. But the motor runs. Thanks Frank

 

Got that fill / bleed kit with the new pump and cylinders for a 70 225. it worked perfect the first time. no issues, no mess. if you were close id lend it to ya or do it for ya.

 

Thank you Briz. I have one. Just trying to figure out if I used it the right way. When I pumped the fluid the air inside kept wanting to blow the fitting out. There was no way the air could escape. Frank

 

I would think you need to VACUUM the reservoir while allowing fluid to enter somehow. Did it come with instructions?

 

Mike, I used Item H139 from AMES to bleed my system. It's a replica of what GM used, very primitive, very effective, reuseable, and very inexpensive at 20.00 or so.

 

Thanks Frank! I'd love to see what you have to say on trimming my outer 1/4 window fuzzies in the RagTop section if you had a moment.

 

This is the item that Frank has posted about. Maybe he can post you the instruction sheet. You could make the kit yourself.
Nelson



.

 

Did you release the clip that pinches off the line? That allows air to flow back into the bottle. I'll have to look at mine to see if there is a air bleed in the bottle itself

 

briz I just figured it out. Also ?I think the top has to be operating while filling. Frank

 

The instructions said to push the filler into the hole on the motor and pump 6-8 squirts of fluid into a dry reservoir. Then release the clamp and operate the top up and down until there are no more bubbles in the line. The pump will push air out into the bottle and suck fluid into the pump until its where it needs to be. First time, I tried to do it without the kit and made a heck of a mess.

 

I had to replace one ram, I filled the reservoir and manually pulled the top up and down 3 times (two man job) and checking the reservoir when top down. Air quickly evacuated the system. Work perfectly. No mess.

 

My top seems to go up and down it seems to take a second or two to build pressure and one side starts going up first. Could I be low on fluid? or need to bleed it? I do see some air in the lines.

 

What I've learned recently is yes to all of the above and/or the top frame needs to be properly adjusted.