Well, the top went down today and never made it back up. After frying a few 20A fuses, I discovered the only way to get the top back up is to put in a 25A, push up the rpms - pushing the volts to around 14V - and even then it toasts a fuse. Does this sound like a short? If so, I can't find one. Motor going bad? Not with it hgets enough juice... 12V Man is having some 12V probs. I'm stuck on this and hope someone out there has experineced the same thing and there's a way out of this mess. Thanks, RR.
It is the current that is being drawn that is the issue not the voltage. On a 12 volt system I think 14 is within spec. Additional resistance to the motor turning and reeling in the top will cause more current to be drawn---until the design limit for the circuit is exceeded. So I would check the lube and rigging for the top for freedom of movement. (I am assuming the hydraulic fluid level is topped off)
ragtops u guys may want to seach older threads as there was a great thread about mods to save your switches . maybe jim weise was the provide of a solution . not sure .
3 weeks if you can give me 3 weeks to finish school I can design you new wiring to save your top switch and use relays to handle the top up down. Nate
Killer. please PM me when you're ready to start and I'll send you out some $$ for your time and trouble.
thogh although how is your wiring from your switch? I can design it one way to run a new wire from the battery. and not hurt the old wiring harness. and i would use the current harness as a low amprage line to power the relays the other splices early in your wiring harness. and uses the existing wire for the high power. Nate
Fluid level was a little low. I topped it off, but only to discover that now it burns a fuse on the way up AND the way down. I can still get the top up and down by increasing RPMs - but it burns a fuse each time, each way.
dumb question but this maybe a dumb question but have any of you oiled the hinge points of your top? there are about 30 of them or so.... it could make a huge diffrence. also the previous owner of mine put in a self resetting breaker. though I have yet to trip it. Nate also check the rods for the pistons to make sure there smooth. Nate
As I stated above I concur with Nate the rigging and freedom of movement of the top is to be checked first. Then I would check the grounds in the circuit that supplies current to the top motor. If they are compromised the circuit will act as if you have added a resistor in series with the voltage supply-- which is what you are describing as observed.
Grounds check out. Rods and pistons are clear. I oiled the hinges and it went up once or twice before blowing the final 20A fuse I had left. Just to get it back up - I snapped in a 25A and - knock on wood - it's moving up and down with ease and not blowing the fuse. Although it's a band-aid fix, I'll stick with the 25 until I can get this resolved. Thanks for all you help so far, guys.
