where were you guys pulling the gas out of the stock tanks? i was thinking about running a tube in through of the tank next to the filler neck and angling it towards the bottom, but there is a baffle that runs across the whole width of the tank and it is pretty tight to the bottom of the tank. i could run a tube in from the front and along the bottom of the tank but when accelerating the gas will be pushed the opposite direction or i could weld a fitting in the lowest part and have it hang down and look bad o No: . what should i do????? Cody
Hello Cody.We always removed the stock line from the sending unit, and then soldered in a 1/2" line.It always worked well and you still had a stock untouched tank, and the gas gauge still worked well.(ps) .We always ran at least a 1/2 tank of gas. Tommy .
yeah its stock other than a 1/2 tube in the sending unit. my fuel pressure always go down to 3 from 7 psi. the tube i put in there just goes straight down with no bends maybe its all rushing past the tube? when i was emptying my tank to take it down, i took the line off the carb and turned the pump on. after it got just below 1/2 a tank it didnt seem to pump as good. when it got to 1/4 of a tank it was basically a very small amount of gas and not much gas
When I reatored the Reynolds car I intended to "make a few passes with it" and still wanted it to be a 10 second car. Anyways what I did with a new tank was bent up a 1/2" line to go about half way back and on the bottom up the tank. I pried the baffle up to slip the line in. It was a bitch but I got it to go in and the gauge works fine as I also brazed that on the line like the stock one was.
i finally got something to work, i had made a pickup just like the one picture above. even when i ran 3/4 to 7/8 of a tank it wouldnt work the pressure would always drop off. ill post some pics in the next couple of days. Cody
so i had made a pickup with a 1/2" line. it looked just like the one robbmc sells. i dont know why but for what ever reason it wouldnt work (even with 3/4 of a tank). when i would stand on the gas pedal the pressure immediately went down from 7 to 3.5. so i cut out a rectangular hole on the right side of the filler neck to try and see what the baffle inside the tank was like. i puched and drilled a large hole in the baffle so i could get the 1/2" id tube in through it where the lowest part of the tank is. i thought of trying to cut some more of the baffle out but i think it actually holds the gas right where it needs to be at the end of the tube when the car is accelerating. i made a piece the same shape of the tank to cover the hole welded it on and i soldered the tube to it. so if i ever want to get the tube out and make it bigger ill just melt the solder off. the 4th picture is a 1/2" tube i put in the tank for the bypass line on the pump. i ran the bypass close to the sucking line before. (i think that caused the gas to foam and probably was part of the problem) i welded that on and also soldered around it. the 5th picture is the end of the tube coming out of the tank right beside the filler neck(crappy picture) when i took it i hadnt soldered on the threaded fitting. the fitting has 3/8 npt in it so i got a npt 3/8 to a -8 barb to put my push lock hose on to and then ran it back up to the pump.while i was at it i figured id make a drain plug too, that's the last picture i also soldered around it after i welded it. i put it all back in the car and the results are a solid 7 psi.when you floor it gravity shoves the gas in the tube and out of the tank. and it is undetectable it doesnt hang down or look bad. i ran it as low as between 1/8 and 1/4 of a tank and it still has good pressure. Cody
You mean you brazed a pickup onto the bottom of the tank, or am I not following? Maybe I should look that car over real good sometime and learn all those "old" tricks. Could come in handy if I ever decide to get my project back on track.
No, the pickup is sandwiched between the baffle and tank bottom, and runs about two thirds to the back of the tank ending just where the tank floor starts to angle back up, so as it still picks up fuel with the least amount in the tank when the car is not in motion and is back far enough to not be uncovered when at launch. What I meant then is the sender/float is brazed back on the 1/2" line in the correct area to make the gauge read right.