OK, NAPA TP45 module. Made by Echlin, same as a lot of other modules, same as GM 990 series module specs, no need to use any other module. I spin all my conversion dists to just past 8,500 rpms with these modules and Accel coils before I ship them out to customers. Echin ownes these companies, makes parts for them, including electronics: Echlin Borg-Warner Sorenson Neihoff Mallory Mr. Gasket, which ownes Accel. Many tests have shown the real problem with large cap HEI module murder and rpm shutdown, is not the module, but the coil, as I stated before. Better oil filled coil, mounted off the cap, much better HEI.
hei module are you geting full voltage to the hei,points car had a resistor to drop the voltage so it didnt burn the points out,so you must have a full 12 volts ,next each time you put in a module are you putting dielectric grease on the bottom metal plate?without this you will blow the module in less than a month.its not the same as rtv which doesnt help either, and if you pickup coil is old enuff the rubber coating on the wires do move with vacuum advance and could be touching the housing which can coase it to blow module to. i have a msd mudule in mine and havent had much problems,and my other car i put a msd 6a wired to the pickup coil directly as the 6a will act as the module and havent had a problem up to 6700 rpms in my bigblock . hope you find your problem :TU: andy
I'm going with an external Accel 8401C coil and an MSD 8140 cover. Then we'll see what happens. Thanks for all the help guys. :beer
OK, real easy coil wire-up. You will need a few wire adapters/terminals, all easy to get stuff at good electronics stores or Radio shack. Two #10/.250 wide stud to male flat blade terminals, this will allow you to connect the existing HEI BATT and TACH feed wires now connected to the dist, to the 8140 coil without hassles/changing wire ends. These two adapters will fit to the two small coil posts. Two #10 ring terminals for 14 guage wire, and two male flat blade .250 wide/14 guage wire terminals, a section each of red and black wire. Make two wires up, one ring, one flat terminal each, one red/one black, same length, long enough to go from the HEI wire connector to the coil. Red wire ring to coil +, and other end with flat blade to the RED (+/ BATT) wire in the HEI connector that went to the old coil in the cap. Black wire to the coil - terminal and to the other outside terminal in the HEI wire connector. The center terminal on the HEI connector is a ground for the old style in cap coil and isn't used any more. New remote coil doesn't have to be grounded to the distributor or to ground. Plug gaps no larger than .045, please.
Thanks for making this easy for me sir.:TU: I'm getting my new rear end in right now, the coil change will happen Saturday. Can't wait. Are there any other benefits of this setup.....performance for example?
Also, please mount the coil with the coil wire end (nose) upwards. This will ensure the windings inside the coil will stay submerged in the cooling fluid correctly.
Where is the best place to mount the coil? If it is designed to dissipate heat, should I move it away from the engine if possible?
OK.......got all the parts changed out, and she won't start. It will crank, but it won't start. Here's what I did. Red wire from distributor to positive post. Brown wire from distributor to negative post. Old black ground wire on dist. goes away. Wire that was formerly on Batt.+ on old dist. goes to positive post. Tach wire goes on negative post. Plus I installed a new module in the distributor. Like I said, it will crank, but won't start. Any ideas? Probably just something I overlooked. o No:
Quick test, before anything else, take existing power wire off the positive side of the coil, add jumper wire to the pos side of the coil from battery positive side or from large lug on rear of alternator (battery voltage always on) and see if you have spark. No, do below tests, yes, problem isn't ion the HEI or coil, but wiring/ign switch. OK, voltmeter from positive post on coil to engine ground, set to read 20 volts DC. take voltage reading at both ignition switch positions start and run. Voltage in both switch positions, go to the distributor, if not find wire that isn't giving power to the dist. You can run a power wire from the IGN terminal on the fuse box to the p[ositive side of the coil as power source, if there aren't any other power takeoffs, but it too must have voltage in start and run. If power is at the coil both key positions, then go to the magnetic pickup inside the dist. Some dists have two wires and no plastic holder, some have both wires in a holder, but this is the end of the module with the two different widths of tabs, narrow and wide. Remove both wires and connect voltmeter to each wire from pickup. Soin engine with starter motor, voltage, pickup is working, no volts, pickup dead. Ohm's resistance between the two wires should be between 800 and 900 ohm's. I'd have figured you'd have already done all this so far.
The car is over at my son's house, and I haven't had time to go troubleshoot it. I got the install done and had to leave, and haven't been back. I'll try this tonight. Thanks.
Everything is good now. Drove the car a lot, and raced it this weekend also. Car ran great with the new coil set up, and no more blown modules. Thanks for the help guys.
I had to relocate my ignition wire to another slot in my fusebox. I wasn't getting enough voltage where it was. Running good now though.:beer
