I have just had my '67 400 rebuilt and a TA212 cam installed. The gears were installed straight up just as if a stock cam was being installed. After many frustrating hours of making timing and carburetor adjustments the decision has been made to install a different set of timing gears and chain to accomplish the 4 degrees of advance recommended by TA. I plan on doing the work myself instead of taking the engine back out and back to the rebuilder. What are the important things that I need to be careful of? I have never had the timing cover off of a BB Buick so I will be learning as I go. My service manual shows the bolts that need to be removed and also states to pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly but other than that implies that it is a fairly simple chore. I need suggestions on the removal and installation of the harmonic balancer. I have read that it needs to be torqued to at least 200 lbs. I do not have a torque wrench that goes that high. All suggestions will be greatly appreaciated!
The way the oil pan is made, the coolant will pour right into the pan when you take off the timing coverou: Be prepared to change your oil! I'd take out the radiator, grille, and front bumper to get better access and reduce the chances of damaging/scratching something. Plus you'll be able to better re-seal the oil pan gasket (you get a kit that replaces just the part you'll break the seal on with a timing cover gasket kit) It's pretty straightforward, though:TU:
if you do leave your radiator in though.. atleast put a piece of thick carcboard between the engine and radiator to protect the radiator. also.. you'll need a big wrench to get the main crank bolt off (I think the BBB has a single bolt like the 350) nate
Here Goes - Meatball mechanic says - (take it with a grain of salt - I'm not responsible if you break anything!) Timing cover itself should be easy if it was just assembled. Old motors have problems with the long bolts fusing to the aluminum timing cover. Very, very bad, especially if you break off a bolt head and the cover is still stuck! Removing crank bolt - use the correct socket, place the end of a long breaker bar on the steering box. Pull the coil wire and bump the starter. Bolt is now loose.* Re-installing the crank bolt - remove a spark plug, verify that the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. Snake in 18" or so of nylon cord and rotate the crank by hand until the piston bottoms on the rope. Get the breaker bar back out and reef the balancer bolt tight. Use a pipe extension if you need to. The spec is 200 foot pounds MINIMUM, it's unlikely that you'll break the bolt.* * As a public service - be warned that some well meaning V8Buick.com posters have correctly stated that these methods are not foolproof, and it may be possible to break something. An impact wrench has been suggested as a better alternative for the balancer bolt, but I am sticking with the tried and true neanderthal methods!
I've never been able to fit the balancer puller in without removing the radiator. Do you have a special, low-profile puller? Just curious, -Bob C.
Thanks for the information. I am installing the double roller set from TA. On their site they mention that there may be a slight clearance problem with the fuel pump arm and recommend elongating the mounting holes by about a 1/16 inch. Has anyone experienced this as a problem?:grin:
when I did my 350 the balancer slid right off almost fell off. although I did have the front main seal leak for about 4000 miles.. so i think the oil getting into it did a nice number on it. Nate
