Timing cover question

Well, cleaned off my factory timing cover to get it ready to send to TA for rebuilding. Found that on of the bolts for the water pump seems to have poked thru the cover. Please see pics.

Is this thing trash now? It’s on the inside of the cover.

 

I think some good epoxy like JB Weld or Marine Tex will fix that

 

Have it welded.

Tom T.

 

I agree, welding is the way to go.
You won't have to worry the epoxy broke loose from engine vibrations. VET (Navy)

 

Why don’t you just buy a new TA cover and have them assemble it for ya.

 

Originally I was going to but cost for it has become too high for my budget.

 

You should be fine with your cover as long as it’s a later model cover with a bigger oil ports should have a 12° timing. Mark on it. 70 and earlier had the small ports. Not a lot of room to increase the size of the holes.

 

O' I forgot to say, the engine heat under the hood will eventually break down the epoxy.

Seeing budget is a big issue. You can always drill out the hole to fit an aluminum bolt. That is, if there is enough wall thickness to get at least 4 threads.
To get more threads into the timing chain cover, use a fine thread bolt, like 32 threads per inch (there is a 1/4 inch diameter 32 threads per inch bolt). Use loctite (Red color) this is a permanent thread locker.

With the head of the bolt on the outside surface of the timing change cover, you will be able to grind the bolt head it down to match the surface of
the timing chain cover. Do NOT heat up the bolt while grinding it or it will break down the lock tight, so take it slow.
Using finer grit sandpaper and a lot of patience, you will get it to look nice or you could paint it red to match your engine color.

 

It won't see enough heat to affect anything,...epoxy the backside,..go out a good 3/16 in all directions for more area,...turn over and epoxy front side,..push it down in the hole till it bulges the back then smear the back in again to make a plug if you will,....let dry then just omit that bolt or drill and clean tge threads out and run a shorter bolt,..it will be fine

 

But if you're having TA do the pump,... this may not something you're comfortable doing,...if so,..run it by a welding shop or fab shop and have them burn it back closed,....doin the pump is an easy procedure and TA will habe it quite a while im sure

 

This chip is actually on the inside of the cover.

 

Ya, time constraints are my main reason. I know I could do it myself but if I could have someone else do it while I work on other parts of the car, it would help. Trying to get the motor back together this summer after my dads cancer diagnosis. I’d like to get the thing drivable before his check out date. So was trying to use as many of the parts I have to stretch my remaining car funds. House projects, toddler, and baby due in December are taking precedence so funds have become limited for the car. Guess I shouldn’t have lagged over the past 15 years when money was more easy to come by LOL.

 

Put some thread sealer on it during reassembly and call it a day. To be really cute put a stud in there with sealer and use a nut at that hole. There is very little pressure behind it.
Wonder where the chip went...

 

Bolt it on and don't think about it again. There is no need to do anything. Maybe it'll seep just enough oil to make a black spot after 20k miles.

 

So I purchased the big block back in 2009. It was rebuilt and together but never ran. I pulled it apart to change somethings and check the work. I’m thinking there was a crack originally like a bolt got cranked too far. Then when I put it on our sonic cleaner here at my work it vibrated it loose. If that’s true then I’m glad it didn’t happen with the engine together and drop into the pan.

 

True,..now that I thing about it,...where it's at,..it would get some silicone in the hole and continue with life

 

I didn't realize the hole doesn't go all the way through the cover. JB Weld should do the job if heat engine heat is not an issue.

You can get JB Weld High Heat epoxy on Amazon:
J-B Weld 8297 HighHeat 500 Degree Epoxy Putty Stick 2 oz.

 

Since you have to repair your timing cover, may as well pull the engine and trans, it’s easier to lift the body off the frame for Resto, plus with the engine out the timing cover will install easier

 

engine is out of the car (never actually been in LOL) and on a stand ready for assembly. Getting my ducks in a row for smooth assembly. Saw the price of a complete ready to go cover from TA and switch gears to reuse the one that was on the engine when I bought it. Again it was a rebuilt 455 bagged up but never ran.

 

See pictures of the cover for where the hole is at: