1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Time for a brake job...???

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by David G, Aug 30, 2005.

  1. David G

    David G de-modded....

    My old power drums actually work pretty well still, but I think the linings may be near the end. Very grimy/dusty behind that drum! I don't have any experience with drum brakes, at what point do you decide it's time for a brake job? I figure it may be a job to do next spring. How about cleaning up this mess? Can I just take a few cans of brake cleaner and thoroughly spray out all this crap? :confused:
     

    Attached Files:

  2. David G

    David G de-modded....

    another
     

    Attached Files:

  3. David G

    David G de-modded....

    last one
     

    Attached Files:

  4. David G

    David G de-modded....

    On the brighter side, I determined the source of some rear end noise that happens on left turns only. I was afraid it was the rear diff, or a suspension problem, but it turns out my 245/60/15 right rear tire is catching the exhaust on a hard left turn, causing the chrome tip of the tail pipe to whack against the bottom of the (newly chromed)bumper. Guess I'll slow down a bit on those left turns, until I figure out what I want to do about the problem. :af:
     
  5. GStage1

    GStage1 Always looking for parts!

    Take the car outside, use an air wand and 100 lbs of air pressure to blow the dust off. Looks like one of you rear wheel cylinders is damp/leaking. Replace brakes when they are about 1/8" above the rivets holding them the metal shoes. If those are orig hardware sets on your car, go to AutoZone and get a new hardware set for each wheel.
     
  6. Rivman

    Rivman Senior Ottawa Buick Guy

    Brake Problem

    Avoid breathing or inhaling the dust as brake shoes contain asbestos, which can be very bad for the lungs ! :TU:
     
  7. Don't use air. Puts too many nasties in the air as you are cleaning.


    Any parts store sells brake cleaner, usually for about 99 cents a can generic. Spray this all over all your brake components, and it will remove more grime than air. Put some cardboard under where the solvent will be dripping off if you have a pristine white concerete driveway, as the solvent with brake dust is as hard to remove from a driveway as it is a tire.
     
  8. David G

    David G de-modded....

    Yeah, all 4 are right down around an 1/8" left. I figured on replacing the hardware on all of them too, since there were no records of any brake work in the pile of receipts I got with the car. Wheel cylinders too... there's a couple leaking.
     
  9. Marty

    Marty Well-Known Member

    Do only one wheel at a time. If you can't remember how they all go back together, you can then at least reference the other side. :Smarty: The fronts don't have the automatic adjusters as are on the rear and are therefore a little simpler. Be sure to use the proper old style brake tool. Vise grips can and do slip on those springs. :spank: :af:
     
  10. frtlnrbuick

    frtlnrbuick Midwest Mafia

    Old Tricks

    David:

    Wash things off with water, outside, then blow dry with air. No dust, no rust and the rest of the stuff on the ground will wash up with water.

    The brake cleaning solvents will affect the seals in the wheel cylinders. If you have stubborn deposits, clean them with the solvents after you disassemble the brakes.

    Do one side at a time and remember the other side is a mirror image, not the same as you look at it. :TU:

    Good Luck,

    Jim
     
  11. David G

    David G de-modded....

    Hey, thanks for all the tips, guys. Probably won't get to it this fall, but a good project for next spring. (that's right, no heated winter storage here)
     

Share This Page