Tilt Column Disassembly Problem

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by knucklebusted, Apr 27, 2020.

  1. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I'm trying to get a tilt column shift apart to paint and convert to floor shift and I've hit a snag in disassembly.

    Two issues:

    1) The collar won't come off the column. I can get about 1/4" gap but it hangs. All the videos I can see look like it should pop right off. It feels like a spring is still binding up.

    2). The key cylinder is out and I still can't turn start switch past lock. I can go to accessory but not to run or start.

    Pics of where I'm at, wiring harness, lock cylinder all out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. BennyK81

    BennyK81 Well-Known Member

    Just redid my whole column and took it apart to every piece.

    My collar is plastic yours looks like its aluminum. I have a tilt column as well but floor shift. It should slide off after you removed the 3 big philips screws.
    looks like there is some oxidation between the collar and the tilt housing.

    maybe this helps:
    http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/tiltsteeringcolumnwobble.htm

    be sure to inspect the 4 screws and use loctite. mine where loose as well.
     
    knucklebusted likes this.
  3. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Does the locking pin move smoothly in and out? Is the ignition switch disconnected from the column? Is the column in the Park position (doesn't look like it is)?
     
    knucklebusted likes this.
  4. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I figured it out. I traced the springy action to the side opposite the key switch. The locking pin was terribly corroded around the housing and wouldn't retract which was also the key turning issue. I have it apart now. Digging deeper now.

    A clip fell out when the housing separated that I don't know where it went. I will look at the pics and figure it out.

    Found it, this one on the right.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Greg, I saw that corrosion around the pin, that's why I asked. Been there. The clip holds the key buzzer switch in. normally, you make a little hook out of a paper clip or something and pull the clip out, then the switch comes out. It should be fine.
     
  6. buick64203

    buick64203 Supercar owner Staff Member

    The lock pin gets you every time!! Almost always corroded.

    Now you have to press out the shift tube from the bowl! Go for it!
     
    mrolds69 likes this.
  7. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Ah, that's the piece nobody puts in their how-tos.

    It also looked like I had to bend the top tang to get the mounting plate off. I could not see any other way around that and it already looked like they bent it to capture the plate.

    I don't have a press. Is there an alternative method? Otherwise, I'm going to stuff it full of rags, tape it off and grind that shift nub off the collar and fill it in as-is.
     
  8. buick64203

    buick64203 Supercar owner Staff Member

    Ive done alot of tilts, I'm intimately familiar with them. And nope, you definitely need a press for a tilt. Non tilt you may get away without one.

    Top tang? Mounting plate? Snap a pic
     
    mrolds69 likes this.
  9. NZ GS 400

    NZ GS 400 Gold Level Contributor

    You could also try to track down the Kent Moore dealer service tool to separate it. That's what I used on my 67 floor shift tilt. I assume there is one for your model year?

    I have a thing for those old Kent Moore specialty tools anyway. :)
     
    mrolds69 likes this.
  10. buick64203

    buick64203 Supercar owner Staff Member

    On that column you don't need any special tool to press the bowl like you do on a 67.

    I just happen to have a tilt column torn down to the point of bowl pressing. I could take a few pics of hiw its done but I probably won't be able to realistically get to it till Sunday afternoon.
     
  11. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    No worries. It is far enough down I can take and plug stuff up and do what I need to do to paint it without gumming things up.

    Other than the pin corroded, it isn't too bad. The bearings weren't even dried out. The anchor bolts were loose but not yet wobbling.
     
  12. NZ GS 400

    NZ GS 400 Gold Level Contributor

    I would be interested in seeing the pics when you get to it Jason. I bet the knowledge will be handy on day.
     
  13. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Greg, while a lopectomy is a pretty straight forward operation, maybe this will be helpful to you. The hardest part is the block sanding, it would be near impossible to get the bowl excellent while on the column.
     
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  14. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    I've seen that video before. Jason was the first person to hint at how you get that collar off the shaft with a press.

    I'm going to use a dremel tool to cut it off as close as possible. I've got plenty of time so I'm not going to put that much of a glob of filler on it and have to take most of it back off. I'm currently unemployed and loving it.

    It won't have to be perfect for me. You really can't see it very well when it is installed.
     
  15. 2dtrak

    2dtrak Gold Level Contributor

    Not a big fan of filling the hole with mars glass. Consider a 2 part epoxy then finish as described. I’ve repaired a broken groove for the shift indicator wire bracket with epoxy with good results
     
  16. BennyK81

    BennyK81 Well-Known Member

    I have taken mine apart without a press. I have one at the shop but done it at home just with hand tools.
    I did bend the top part as well to get the plate out that has the 4 threaded holes for the screws. Just so much that you can remove the plate.
    Then I used a plastic hammer and a wooden block to separate. I did put it together this way too...had some big long sockets to do it...
     
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  17. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    I've done what Benny did, also. Once was enough and I have the K-M tools now. It's so much easier using those for the job. I also burnt up a Dremel trying to cut the nub off. Sawzall is the way to go, maybe a cut off wheel if you like to live dangerously. Briz can give you some good pointers about aftercare.
     
    2manybuicks likes this.
  18. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    OK, cut off the nub with a cutoff wheel on my 4" angle grinder and smoothed it down with some files.

    Here's where it is so far. Got the first coat of primer on it since this picture to see how much work it needs now. I've put a coat of JB Weld in the square hole. I think that will do it. No need for a half a cup of bondo.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    The current state of the column smoothing.
    [​IMG]
     
  20. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    As we say around here, good enough for who it's for. I might scuff it one more time and shoot one more coat. If I wait much longer I might forget how to assemble it.

    [​IMG]
     

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