What are your experiences and thoughts about using a Scavenger External Oil System with or without Oil Pressure Balance Line from AMP? My block currently has the standard oiling mods/improvements from AMP and not sure that added the external would provide addiontional benefits? I do not have an oiling issue now and currently make about 450HP, but will be adding turbo charging and looking for about 8 pounds of boost for an additional 200-plus HP. Block is also 1/2 filled and girdled. What are the Pros and Cons and Good or Bad experiences with the external oil system? Also, thinking about using the Balance Line only, is anybody just using it alone and if so, your thoughts? Thanks in advance, Greg
Love to revisit this question. I was thinking of just the oil pressure balamce line as well. Does the line running oil to back of block really help. Does it hurt pressure? Does the keep the pressure guage accurate?? http://automachperf.com/oilsystems.html
i just run the balance line,i think it helps if you spin it past 6k.oil pressure stays steady.i spin it to 6600-6800.3 years on my engine,bearings look great.:grin:
I also have a oil line going to the back of the engine block to unsure the right oilpressure/volume at the rear of the engine. The oilpressure gauge will not read any different with these mod. My JW 475 build raceengine has 110PSI cold start oilpressure, and when warm/hot is has 70-90 PSI oilpressure past the 4000-5000 RPM at 6000 and up up it has 90PSI ol pressure. If you want a picture of this setup let me know I can dig it up and post it here.
That sounds real nice to me. But I am only building a 400 or 450 hp 455. Maybe overkil for me. Don't race the car at all, just street car. But I figure any help counts.
No an external oilpump setup from Moroso. This engine needs HV of oil to. I love this engine, its the most quite operating V8 i have ever heard! I might need to remove the exhaust, perhaps then it will make some racecar noises! :Brow: Here a picture before/after the Dyno run, here still is the normal waterpump there. For the dynorun the Mezier Electric waterpump wasn't in the house on time. I have alot of buildup pictures JW made during this engine buildup. I'm thinking posting them here, what do you guys think? Would someone like to see JW build an engine? I sure did! Greetz Robert
Jaystoy I would say that a good timing cover and hi-volume stock style pump along with a few minor block mods with external lines added to the rear of the block would be enough for those 400 to 500 hp. Anything more would be a bit overkill. There are guys out here even running higher hp with stock pumps. For what you plan on running there would be no need to go any further. With my combo I use a Peterson oil/vac pump, the pressure was way up there too like those numbers mentioned previously. Too high of pressure can cause you to blow oil too fast past the bearings actually starving them. My engine builder suggested I lower it a bit which I did by using the set screw on the pump. My engine was dynoed at 800 hp and shift points are 6,900 going thru the eyes at 7,000. I had extensive block work along with the pump increasing the volume of oil pumped thru. With kids going to college and other money priorities I wanted to spare none on the oiling, the block and any strength as this will no doubt be my last all out race engine for some time to come. So this one has to lastray: One last note: Even with all the precautions these engines still expire, as I had a lifter bore that broke. I have since then swapped the lifter bore girdle in place of filled lifter galley and switched over to a Jesel rocker arm set up. Dyno video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT1CdZnK1sU&feature=channel_page
Hello Rick nice setup! I sold my 464 Iron stage 1 (500HP) engine to someone else, and what I guess what happened is that the new owner was shifting the gears manually with a console shifter and over revved this engine a couple of times to many. And Finally something broke. The new owner was on its way to the shop to have a floorshifter installed when the engine gave up on the highway. We opened up that engine, and 5 valves were bend, 2 or 3 pushrods were laying in the oilpan, one lifterbore was broken off, it fell in the engine and blocked a rod, the rod snapped off in the middle of the O caps at the crank. The rod twisted 180 degrees without breaking. ( I kept that one as a reminder, never seen a twisted rod before with the piston still on it to!) And the camshaft was broken in 3 pieces.. My shortblock made in a previous life and in a different setup 826HP, the previous owner used to race it to. My car is not setup to handle that much, and I had different parts also so my HP goals were much lower. So the block was rebuild for my specs. The block is Girdled and filled with hardblock to about an inch or so below the top deck. Has a one of a kind custom made bronze front cam bearing. And a 3 piece torrington bearing, used between the back of the cam, and the block. Has oil grooves in the block.. this is done to increase rod bearing oiling on HP engines. And a lot more mods that I forget to mention. This block was chosen by the previous owner cause this one was the best core, was very beafy everywere and had the least amount of coreshift. I hope it will last a long time, so I can save up for the next rebuild and hopefully I have enough $$ to buy the new TA alu block by then. This engine needs lots of oil at the crank as JW explained:
