I finally bought my pistons and rings so I've got a pretty good idea on what direction I'm going to take with the rest of the build (spoiler: Its going to be pretty similar to Chris G.'s 300 stroker). His was pretty well documented, but I figure having another point of reference can't hurt. My foundation is a stock bore and magnufluxed 300 block with the oiling mods performed. I have a 340 crank that I'm pairing with reconditioned capscrew 350 rods, 3.780" Speed Pro hyperuectic pistons, and Manley moly rings. Bearings are going to come from TA Performance. For the top end I have a set of aluminum 64' 300 heads with the 4bbl intake. Valves will be the Pinto 1.736" intake and 1.500" exhaust. I was on the fence about going with valves that will require new seats, but I plan on heat treating the heads to T6 so I'm pretty sure new seats will be needed anyway. I believe Chris's motor ended up with a cr of around 10.6:1. I'm hoping to land closer to 10 even so opening up the chambers will be required. Probably stock rocker assemblies. Overall I'm focusing on low rpm torque and hoping to limit costs so that I can splurge on a roller cam and some type of fuel injection. If my flow data and stock spec data is reliable I don't think nearing 450 ft. lbs. below 3000 rpm is shooting too high? Oh and the block is going to be painted to match the aluminum, hence "The Silver Stroker".
Thanks! I think I agree, but which aspect? Amount? RPM? Or both? The truth is I don't know nearly enough about the intricacies of engine building to know how much a particular part or factor is worth. Here is the info I was basing my guesstimate on. I figured if a stock 340 4bbl put out 375 ft lbs at 2800 rpm, then adding 75 ft lbs down low would be good goal. Since it looks like the stock 340 heads and the stock '64 300 heads not flowing too much different, I figured between head work, the roller cam, and efi it might be reasonable. I would love some input.
Duffey, I was wondering how you were doing on your build. Chris has about 10.3 compression. In my opinion roller cam would help more at higher RPM. I would go with the Crower 50234 flat tappet cam. One step higher than Chris's. Advance 4 degrees to lower torque curve. Beehive springs would be nice. Go with Fitech or Holley Sniper FI to avoid Megasquirt multiport EFI headaches. Pushrod oiling? I've got a few ideas on better rockers.
Darn, I thought the roller cam helped throughout the rpm range? Oh good, .3 points is easier to gap than .6. I was going to stick with the stock rockers, but I'm sure I could be convinced of something else. I found a kiln for the heat treating. I can't decide if I should bring the block along and bolt the heads on before I quench or just try to deal with whatever warping during the aging. Also, the pins look like they want to fit so badly! And I don't know what the weird little void is on the left side of the piston just under the valve relief.
Duffey, That little dot is to point forward for the correct offset. Some pistons have an arrow. Is the rod already bushed? You can lose a lot of weight off the balancing pads.
From Hot Rod Magazine March 2011: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1103-how-to-hot-rod-any-engine/ Article on a 300 stroker with a 340 crank.
Just so you know going in using the 340 crank instead of a cap screw rod 350 crank, you may have to add weight when it gets balanced. For your build, the lighter nut and bolt rods that the 340 crank had would of been enough to handle the mild build you have planned and would of balanced for less $$$. Hopefully the pistons are much lighter than a factory 340 piston to make up for the extra rod weight? Typically its $100 for each Mallory slug that is installed in the crank for balancing.
Focus on losing some weight off those rods by removing material where you can... they have plenty of beef for your application..
Im just going on theory, 450 ft lbs is the upper end of 350 torque numbers, and the lower end of 455 torque numbers. If you turbo it, then I'd say those mubers are easily attainable My GN put 519 ft lbs to the wheels years ago at 19 lbs boost.
Ha! Nice Mark. Yeah if this build goes well I would love to try a boosted motor. Just looking at the profile of the piston I think it will save a good amount of weight, if someone has a 340 piston to weigh we can compare. Also, I do need to lighten up the rods. The rods aren't bushed yet, it just looks even closer in person than I had anticipated going over the numbers.
Question: It looks like the valves I plan on using are a bit longer than stock. How does one accommodate such a situation? I am curious to know how to deal with shorter valves as well just for future reference. https://www.ebay.com/itm/74-94-Ford...itm=302328518796&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
You will have to set stem heights after a valve job. But within reason. What about later buick v6 1.775 ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrea-F62...462848&hash=item5468847007:g:qJoAAOSwEzxYaZX8
i was kind of scared to open the page labled the silver stroker haha did not know what kind of picks i would see nice build
Duffey, You shim the rocker stands for the longer valves. Chris used one long .2 shim for the much longer Chevy V6 valves. You need a .125 shim. Also blocked the oil hole to the rocker shaft for pushrod oiling. You probably won't find shorter than the stock Buick valves. The larger 1.775 Buick V6 valve is pretty big. It is a little longer than stock also. I know Dan Jones used it in his heads.
Does it matter that the intake and exhaust valves are different lengths? I'm assuming you just split the difference?
Duffey, If they are close, split the difference. I think Chris had Smith Bros make .030 longer on exhaust pushrods with the V6 valves. Yours are .020 longer on the exhaust. You use an adjustable pushrod to figure correct length. I add .040 for lifter preload. If the valve lock grooves are in the same spot the spring heights will be the same. If not you may have to shim more to get the same height.
Ok sounds good. The V6 valves are nice, they just cost 5x more than the Pinto sets I found ($28 a set plus $10 shipping).
They are taller. Chevy uses the same pushrods even though the exhaust is .030 taller. The Buick V6 valve is practically touching the exhaust and seats are siamesed they are so close. Are your valve lock grooves single or triple groove? If single, Chevy keepers(locks) work. For triple, Federal Mogul VK205R for hardened keepers.
They are quad groove oddly enough, and nitride coated. I think maintaining valve spin would be a good thing for my application, no?
