That would be the difference between a custom built converter and an off the shelf unit. You can get a higher stall converter that will feel tighter for normal driving yet stall where it needs to when you romp on it. The difference is dollars. The current level of converter technology allows you to pretty much have your cake and eat it too.
Yes, a well built converter by Hughes or another good company will be great on the street even if it has a high stall rating... I have seen 3500 stall converters that were not loose on the street.... Buy a low quality 3500 and yes it will be terrible on the street.
I guess that is the reason the companies I inquired with did not recommend anything over 2600. I have never used a Hughes converter but did have one from PATC when I had my 350 turbo trans. Since then I have gone to 3.73's with the 200-4R.
Have to agree with Larry, I run a 3,000/3,200 10" lockup from JW and it's a blast to drive on the street! Abt. $700.00, but nice street manors and flashes up nicely when you let her eat! I can foot brake it to 2,700. 2004r, with cooler, 390's out back.
Not sure what you mean but if you look up the 284 cam you will see many of my post. Sent Jim Weise an email today.
My engine is very mild. The key is to build to the strengths of the engine design. Buicks are torque engines, build them for torque. Torque engines pull harder when short shifted. Use the torque. With the dual plane intakes we are saddled with, trying to make power over 5200 is futile. Yes they will rev higher but the power tops out around 5200. The overall runner length is too long and the turns are too tight. FYI what some call porting the intake is really just matching it to the head. The intake runner really can not be ported for power gain because the entire runner can not be accessed and still you have the same length/tight bends. Also don't even think about cutting the intake divider down, it does not work, you only lose torque and gain nothing up top again due to the long runners/tight bends. So build for torque. I know a few guys will chime in here and claim they are making tons of power at 6500 with a TA dual plane/ ported iron/ cut down iron/whatever, I say you need an accurate tach. The factory dual plane is an RPM cork period. I'll bet when the new single plane comes out you will find that stock heads and the single plane will make more power than any amount of head work with any dual plane intake. The stock head is not as bad as some say it is. Rant over. My build. Actual 9.6 to 1 measured compression with TRW Hyper pistons and zero decked block. Crower 50258 level 3 cam advanced 4 degrees. stock valves, iron manifolds, Qjet factory ram air air filter Stock oil system with 5w30 VR1 oil. TA cam bearings. 2000 rpm torque convertor, Summit saturday night special type cheapy. Shift kit 3.42 rear end. 255/60 radials. 2 1/2" exhaust although ran the same when it had 2 1/4". 2 1/2" was cheaper when replacement time came. 34 degrees total timing in around 2500 rpm. Shift at 5200 rpm. FAST dual sensor air/fuel monitor. A must have for tuning. 3650lbs My car is built for Pure stock type racing which requires to use stock components. I drive this car on the street and often to the track. It gets over 20 mpg cruising at 70 and can be driven anywhere by anybody on pump premium. If I missed any details just ask.
Yes. It does not go rump rump, it just goes. Torque from idle. If you just want to sound cool get a thumpa.
--- Steve,. great running combo with stock component's,.. make's my over cammed low compression combo look weak... lol -- good job,..
....The factory dual plane is an RPM cork period. I'll bet when the new single plane comes out you will find that stock heads and the single plane will make more power than any amount of head work with any dual plane intake. The stock head is not as bad as some say it is. hurray! finally somebody else out there agrees to what i've been saying. :TU: thanks steve.
Well, not only does it look like I will need a new torque converter but looks like I will need a new trans as well. Dropped pan revealed LOTS and LOTS of metal goop. Won't know how much its gonna cost until the unit is ripped apart and inspected. Two months out of warranty!!
Was trans acting OK? If trans was working good before then let it go for now but save some $ for the possiblity.How old was rebuild? Might not want to use same shop that did last rebuild. Did you have a 350 trans? Its a fairly cheap trans to rebuild. You can get a complete performance 350 for under a grand.
That's not good. Them things need an extra cooler. Do you have the lockup convertor hooked up? Check and see if they put the 10 vane pump in also. 7 vane pump wear too fast.
